Wire ga.

[bwaysteve]

Ready to purchase stranded 110 and 12v wire.What ga. for ea. and for 110 2 wire or 3 w/ground.

[wkerfoot]

I used 12-3 for the 110V circuits, except for the run from the Marinco outlet to the breaker box which was 10-3. That way outlet is grounded. I also used 12G for most of the 12V circuits except for a couple which used 10G.

Bill

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Ready to purchase stranded 110 and 12v wire.What ga. for ea. and for 110 2 wire or 3 w/ground.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Ready to purchase stranded 110 and 12v wire.What ga. for ea. and for 110 2 wire or 3 w/ground.

For "Normal" outlets 12/2 W/ ground. I would make sure you use grommets when passing through anything in the trailer.

[HowieE]

Wire size is a function of the FUSE value behind the wire

For 120 volt circuits fused at 20 amps you want #12 wire. If you are fusing at 15 amps you can use #14 wire. In both cases use wire with a ground and carry the ground to every receptacle.

!2 volt circuits fused at 20 amps want #12 wire. The body of the trailer is the ground. Any circuit fused above 20 amps, the electric jack at 30 amps, should be wired with #10 wire.

[Gene]

Stranded wire is much more expensive than solid core. 12 gauge wire used inside the trailer need not be stranded.

Gene

[nickmeloy]

Another thought for consideration when wire will be subjected to vibration and flexing is that stranded wire is more resistant to fatigue failure than is solid.

[bwaysteve]

Thanks,Got the idea.I guess I can hijack my own post with this.If running 110 or 12v for that matter should the refer,microwave,and wh be on separate runs with their own outlets.Does each run go to a fused block and then 1 20amp wire to the breaker box?I guess I am wondering if I have seperate runs how they relate to the breaker box and how many breakers are needed.

[wasagachris]

110VAc one breaker for each circuit. No hidden junction points or fuse blocks. My 73 had one circuit for whole trailer and one other circuit for A/C. Wire ran from Circiut breaker panel into first receptacle then back out to next receptacle and so on. I would run seperate wires 7 circuit breakers to fridge,microwave,A/C, front receptacles, rear receptacles and one seperate run for kitchen/bathroom/outdoor receptacle with a GFCI breaker.

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

110VAc one breaker for each circuit. No hidden junction points or fuse blocks. My 73 had one circuit for whole trailer and one other circuit for A/C. Wire ran from Circiut breaker panel into first receptacle then back out to next receptacle and so on. I would run seperate wires 7 circuit breakers to fridge,microwave,A/C, front receptacles, rear receptacles and one seperate run for kitchen/bathroom/outdoor receptacle with a GFCI breaker.

Mine just had two also a 20 and a30.So I will get a separate box.On the 12v I think all the runs can go to a fuse box and one wire to converter?Right?

[wasagachris]

Steve yes 12VDC can run to fuse box and one wire to converter. Some converters have bulit in fuse panels. It would be a good idea to run grounds from each load(light/fan etc) to ground block at fuse panel. Original 12VDC just grounds to shell either through light housing or grounded to shell with screw/rivet. If you are going to rewire then add grounds now and eliminate problems later. I see your'e planning on solar as well,do you plan to increase your number of batteries as well. If so wher would they be going?

[bwaysteve]

I am thinking of doing a custom desk in place of one goucho and putting the batteries there..The Lifelines are pricey but plan is for 2 100 amp initially.Want to wire for solar and all and add within a year.I did see at Bestconverters a 45amp distribution panel all in one unit by Progressive Dynamics with 5 ac branch circuits 10dc 20 amp 2 dc 30amp.
Sounds like the kind of simplification I need.Will definitely runs the grounds as it's only wire at this point and everything is open.Want to do it right at this point!

[Melody Ranch]

Come visit...we will solve this....bring the Airstream.

[clancy_boy]

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

Come visit...we will solve this....bring the Airstream.

WOW, what a great response and offer. Just to see posts like this make me glad I have an Airstream and am part of a community like this.

Way to go MR.

[bwaysteve]

I knew I could count on you Mr. Melody Ranch.1st layer Prodex nearly finished,new floor in so I think I can make it 20 mi. to your place.Thanks,Steve

[garry]

You may already know this but.

The ground bus in the 120VAC breaker panel should NOT be tied in any way to the neutral bus.

[Jammer]

Steve,

Current practice with Airstream and for the most part the rest of the RV industry is to run dedicated circuits for any high-amperage appliances that are present (water heater, air conditioning, microwave), and put everything else on two circuits, divided based on whether the outlet in question has to be GFCI protected or not.

You can use 12-2 with ground for all the circuits and breaker them at 20 amps, except that the water heater is supposed to be breakered at 15 amps.

On the 12 volt side of things I would use 16 gauge wire for most circuits and plan the circuits for an 8 amp load and breaker everything at 15 amps. Larger loads should have their own circuit with larger wire and a larger breaker. These will include any cigarette lighter type power outlets, the tongue jack, water pump, breakaway switch, and furnace.

Unless you have an inverter you can use 6 gauge for the connection to converter and the connection to the batteries. I use 8 gauge for the charge line.