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Old 10-20-2008, 10:41 AM   #1
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1978 29' Ambassador
Martinsville , Indiana
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Where does the power come from?

On 1978 Ambassador which had a radio and tape deck there are three sets of wires Going To it. I don't care what went to what-for now-. What I want to know is there is the power source that flows into these wires?
The wires go into(or come out of) the wall(whichever way you want to look at it) and I can't see where they go so obviously circuit testing is null and void.
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:45 AM   #2
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The only one that will have power, 12 volts, on it comes from the fuse panel. Locate your panel and make sure all the fuses are in and good.
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:45 AM   #3
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Cedaredge , Colorado
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Well, more than likely it's tied to your fuse box and then to the inverter... put a voltage tester on them and switch the fuses one by one off or on.. then you will know which fuse it is part of...
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:55 AM   #4
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1978 29' Ambassador
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By not saying it comes from shore power helps me start isolating.
By the way; the manual talks about circuit 5 thru 9, or maybe its 5 through 8. Don't have manual in front of me. Any idea(s) on what that's all-about.
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Old 10-20-2008, 11:43 AM   #5
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1978 31' Sovereign
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#6 Fuse is the sixth from the far left of the fuse panel

The entertainment center should be on the "Blue" #6 circuit.
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:46 PM   #6
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man Glad my '68 only has 4 fuses...
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:50 AM   #7
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1978 29' Ambassador
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To All,
Good advice so far.
My fuse block is rusted.
Bottom line. (1) WHere can I go to get a fuse block for the internal lights?
{And, can I take the old one off and scour it; maybe for re-use?}
Can you provide a part number? I'll google it.
Just for my edification:
(2)where does the power come from that goes into the internal light fuse block?
It appears that the most left hand side fuse works. (it for the radio).
The next one to the right, where the brown wire goes, does not work. BUT, if I put hot power to the bottom of the fuse , or, the top of the fuse then I get lights on my brown wire. So, where the the power come from, AND,
(3)does the power come from left to right OR right to left. WHich makes me beg the next question:
(4) If I disconnect the existing internal light fuse block will that "break" something. And that something is the fuse block to its left, for trailer hookup, and to the right for negativity connection.
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:25 PM   #8
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Your best bet would be to go to your local marine supply store, and pick up a universal fuse panel. You can get one that has the blade type (ATC) fuses, they are easier to find and service.
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Old 10-23-2008, 04:35 PM   #9
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Morada , California
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Your wiring should be just like the drawings that 87MH has posted above...our 78 Ambassador is wired per that diagram above.

Don't forget you'll have (4) wires that go to the (4) speakers.

Also, you'll have an antenna wire (coax).

Then you'll have the + pos lead from the fuse panel, and a - neg lead also...

I've got the same setup you have, but haven't done any upgrading yet...I use a small FM transmitter/adapter that plugs into my iPod to put our 'tunes' into the AS speakers when I tune the original stereo to the proper FM freg, etc....works great, and we still have the vintage 8-track look....
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:07 PM   #10
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1978 29' Ambassador
Martinsville , Indiana
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I have ordered and received(just yesterday) the service manual from a canadian company. Lots of information, Except, what one must do when the fuse block goes belly-up. I'll say this. I just completed this task: I ran a wire straight from the hot TO the Blue, the Brown, the pink, the red, the brown and all seems to work. In essence, I BY-Passed the fusses.
I asked an expert for some advice and received this:

XADC 60A Converter/Charger
9 Position Fuse Block

Again, I think my Univolt is shot so yes I'm running straight off the battery.
I'm sure California's marine shops are much more robust than where I hang out but I'll give it a whirl.
I sure would like to compare part numbers. I'm not without some intelligence.
So tell me. look at bestconverter proposal and chime in about likes or dislikes.
I don't want to pay $250.00 for something that might have only cost me $50.00.
I know I'll have lots of work to-do to replace it. My knees are already aching because of the location of the fuse box. What engineer came up with that location. geez.
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:02 AM   #11
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1978 29' Ambassador
Martinsville , Indiana
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A friend turned me on to these products.
Getting closer to making a decision.

Intelli-Power PD9260C 60A Electronic RV Converter/Charger
AC and DC Distribution Panels
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:54 AM   #12
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A three stage converter is comsidered the best way to keep and maintain your battery. The process looks dauntung, but once you get into it, it's pretty straightforward.
About those knees... Head over to your local hardware store, and pick up a gardener's knee pad. It's green, about a foot square, and made out of soft foam. You put it on the floor, and rest your knees on it. It's saved me a bunch of pain in the knees, and only costs 3 dollars or so.
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:48 AM   #13
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1978 29' Ambassador
Martinsville , Indiana
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Take a look at this url:
Wire Terminals, Electrical Wire, & Electrical Supplies

It's just one url that I looked at when perusing fuse blocks.
Anyway, I'd like to replace the 4 bus fuse block that performs circuitry for the turn signal, backup lights, and running lights. On my `78 it sits to the left of the "all other circuitry".
1st question:
Will this unit be a suitable replacement?
2nd Question:
MUST the replacement fuse block be mounted on the MAIN panel, or, can I mount the NEW fuse Block on a standalone panel? And the reason I ask this is because: must the panel be hot? {That is, a positive and negative circuit running through it? }
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