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Old 08-20-2016, 11:36 AM   #15
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Hi
If you have a hitch battery box, how about putting another female 7 pin socket on the hitch box. In other words ,your trailer whip will have 2 males. Then put a simple toggle next to it. When parked just flip the switch. Use an inline fuse for protection. That is the way i have set up my vintage travelux. See attached pictures. Hope this helps. Take care
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Old 08-20-2016, 07:02 PM   #16
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If you want to use a switch it's pretty easy. Get a 12v on-on switch. They have them for rv lights etc, common at rv dealer parts departments. Also VTS has them. They have 3 prongs on back center prong is the load, in this case feeding to the running lights. The other two prongs are the suply voltage wires. In this case you would connect one to the wire from the umbilicle the other to a 12v supply from the trailer. When the switch is on one position it will power from umbilicle, switched the other way 12v from trailer. Can't be both at same time so no back feed worries.
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:16 PM   #17
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Buy yourself a remote switch off ebay, and connect it to a female connector. Just connect 4 wires, plug it in and push the button.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:13 AM   #18
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thanks hijoe silver, you are right . Got to protect the feedback. A 3 position is necessary.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:33 AM   #19
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If you want to use a switch it's pretty easy. Get a 12v on-on switch. They have them for rv lights etc, common at rv dealer parts departments.
That type of switch works.

The main reason I recommended a blocking diode instead is that with the diode, you can't forget to switch on the clearance lights when you plug in the umbilical cable; they come on automatically. A blocking diode combined with a simple on/off switch only on the house side lets you choose whether to turn the clearance lights on when camping, but always have them on when the tow vehicle's lights are on.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:43 AM   #20
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.......for our 63 Safari.

Got a spare female 7way plug, jumped 12v to the running light pin. Just plugged it in when we felt kool. (I suppose I could have put a switch/fuse there)

Bob
FWIW......since getting the Classic I no longer feel the need to be , so the running lights only run at night while running down the road.

Bob
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:46 AM   #21
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Make certain to mount said switch outside so annoyed camper neighbors can shut off by themselves! Nobody likes glaring rv lights in a dark star filled night!
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:45 AM   #22
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Wow - lots of great suggestions consider. I will have to think about this for a bit. Thank you all!
Greg
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Old 08-21-2016, 02:44 PM   #23
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Thanks Protagonist. If I opt to go with a switch inside, your suggestion of doing both the blocking diode and switch makes sense to be safe. For the blocking diode - I guess I would try to find one that is for 12V and 15 amp capacity (since my wire is 14AWG)? I found this on ebay - http://www.ebay.com/bhp/schottky-blocking-diodes - but hard time finding a 12V one. Any suggestions?

Also, will I need to run a ground to the switch?

Thanks,
Greg

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That type of switch works.

The main reason I recommended a blocking diode instead is that with the diode, you can't forget to switch on the clearance lights when you plug in the umbilical cable; they come on automatically. A blocking diode combined with a simple on/off switch only on the house side lets you choose whether to turn the clearance lights on when camping, but always have them on when the tow vehicle's lights are on.
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Old 08-21-2016, 02:59 PM   #24
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Thanks Protagonist. If I opt to go with a switch inside, your suggestion of doing both the blocking diode and switch makes sense to be safe. For the blocking diode - I guess I would try to find one that is for 12V and 15 amp capacity (since my wire is 14AWG)? I found this on ebay - http://www.ebay.com/bhp/schottky-blocking-diodes - but hard time finding a 12V one. Any suggestions?

Also, will I need to run a ground to the switch?

Thanks,
Greg
I got the diodes for my toad at my Airstream dealer, Foley RV in Gulfport, MS. I went with the ones they suggested.

You shouldn't need to run a ground to the switch. The switch simply goes in the hot wire at the location most convenient to you; the lights still are grounded normally.
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:28 PM   #25
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Switch for clearance lights

Any silicone rectifier or Schottky diode with a 15 amp rating at any voltage above 12 volts will work.

The voltage rating is not an issue. It's all about current when you are picking a diode for this use.


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