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Old 09-10-2015, 12:08 AM   #21
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For what it's worth I spent small fortune having to upgrade both my exterior and interior lights on my '00 XC diesel...half my lights were made to run off the battery (for traveling) and half off shore power, inverter, or genset...I found some pretty good bulk deals on Amazon. The prices have dropped substantially since I did my reno...ugh.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:01 AM   #22
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I always wonder who makes decisions at Airstream and why. And do they ever camp in their own rigs? If the executives did, there would be some changes, and fast.
.
It’s probably Thor, Inc., demanding "more revenue & lower cost from our, uh... “holdings”, for the, uh, CE- I mean... “shareholders...”.

“...Anyway, the “Brand” carries a lot of weight...”.

(sure hope those brainiacs move on)
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Old 10-16-2015, 02:25 AM   #23
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Nothing against those who have post-Thor Industries units, but the new-to-us unit we bought was purchased for among other reasons because it was pre-Thor. Not to say that it's QC is a whole lot better(seems good so far) but it wouldn't take much to surpass Thor. We've owned Thor products before(not AS) and have had issues with them and their dealers. Always wanted an AS but "Thor" was a bit of a turn-off. Bought ours with the intent on renovating anyway, so at least if the QC is bad after we're done its our fault. We think that many executives live in their own world(been there) and its their loss if they don't enjoy the RV experience...
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:47 AM   #24
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Thumbs up

Replaced all the interior non-florescent 5 years ago with warm white along with the step and scare with bright white, big improvement.

The plan was to do the rest of the outside when they started to burn-out, that hasn't happened yet.

Did put LED B/W pads in the b/u lights....helps to light up the campsite when it's time to leave, not to mention how bright it gets while backing at night.




Bob
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:59 AM   #25
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Question

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Originally Posted by Easyrider06 View Post
Nothing against those who have post-Thor Industries units, but the new-to-us unit we bought was purchased for among other reasons because it was pre-Thor. Not to say that it's QC is a whole lot better(seems good so far) but it wouldn't take much to surpass Thor. We've owned Thor products before(not AS) and have had issues with them and their dealers. Always wanted an AS but "Thor" was a bit of a turn-off. Bought ours with the intent on renovating anyway, so at least if the QC is bad after we're done its our fault. We think that many executives live in their own world(been there) and its their loss if they don't enjoy the RV experience...
Regards,
James and Rebecca
Jim,

Is the 'new to us' your 89?

"Thor Industries, Inc. was founded on August 29, 1980, when Wade F. B. Thompson and Peter Busch Orthwein acquired Airstream. The name "Thor" combined the first two letters of each entrepreneur's name."

Bob
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Old 10-16-2015, 06:28 AM   #26
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LED Conversions?

As one who converted two AS and one moho to LED's, at a total cost of about $1500 for all....to save electricity......

So, stop reading this post now......

The OP was asking the question about the folks at JC and most of us have no clue about how their thinking algorithm is functioning, if that is what one could call it.

I have found gels can change color temperature on LED's, the new LED's can be dimmed, and as the country changes to all LED light sources, we will continue to make progress in this area.

Most folks attempting to manufacture products in the USA have found cost cutting is necessary to be somewhat competitive and the result is some models of AS have minimal convenience, others some features (think electric bed or loungers) which in an RV with no generator is interesting at best.

My experience when I actually worked, was to examine folks' emotional and thinking state, and assist in their being able to make good decisions in life. While it is inappropriate for me to come to any diagnosis regarding the bean counters at Jackson Center, the task would be interesting for sure....

What were they thinking? The question of the day.....LOL
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:13 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Replaced all the interior non-florescent 5 years ago with warm white along with the step and scare with bright white, big improvement.

The plan was to do the rest of the outside when they started to burn-out, that hasn't happened yet.

Did put LED B/W pads in the b/u lights....helps to light up the campsite when it's time to leave, not to mention how bright it gets while backing at night.




Bob

Did you put blue tape on your belt-line trim of your newer Classic to make it look like an older Excella?


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Old 10-16-2015, 10:15 AM   #28
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Did you put blue tape on your belt-line trim of your newer Classic to make it look like an older Excella?


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Nope......just to keep the UV off the cheep 'plastic' krome on the sunny side during storage.

Bob
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:39 PM   #29
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Don't let a pressure washer hit the fake chrome, either-
Don't ask me how I know-


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Old 10-16-2015, 12:57 PM   #30
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'Scare lights'?

Translation for newbie please :-)
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:07 PM   #31
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'Scare lights'?

Translation for newbie please :-)
scare = stair (to autocomplete) ?

or -- to scare off night visitors assuming he meant the light high above the outside steps at the entry . . .
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Old 10-16-2015, 03:14 PM   #32
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I don't really know why they are called scare lights. It is the big obnoxiously bright light on the outside of campers. There is also a step light.


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Old 10-17-2015, 12:03 AM   #33
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I don't really know why they are called scare lights. It is the big obnoxiously bright light on the outside of campers. There is also a step light.


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"Scare " lights are supposed to scare robbers and bears away from your camper at night...
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:04 AM   #34
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Scare lights

Actually these are designed to fail, and when one finds the price of a replacement, this tends to scare the owner...
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:38 AM   #35
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My trailer was built without a scare light, no loss. But the led door light, over the door, has already failed and some idiot designed the installation so that you have to remove the caulk around the cover to lift the cover and remove the lens. Of course you then must recaulk the cover after installing a $20 led in the bracket. Maintainability? Nope.

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Old 10-17-2015, 04:50 AM   #36
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@ lsbrodsky...replacing door light

You may find you can remove the LED unit by cutting it, avoiding the caulk issue. But, first check with LED4RV.com in High Point, see if Dan has a replacement which could be installed and is small enough to fit without breaking the caulk seal. Or, if possible, check the connections and maybe it is a problem with corrosion, not a failed LED.

I installed the door LED units on my 2009 27FB using silicone sealant, as a glue, and this has worked well in several instances.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:28 AM   #37
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Tommie,
The problem was that even after removing the 2 screws, the lens at the bottom of the fixture could not be removed without lifting the bottom of the aluminum cover. That required breaking the caulk seal. You cannot get to the LED without removing the lens. I checked voltage at the bracket after removing the LED and all was well, leaving only the LED as the problem. I did order a replacement LED from LED4RV, identical. Plugged it in and the light works again. I also got a replacement bracket/fixture from AS, in case that was the problem. I have a spare now.
I also replaced the refrig light with a festoon LED, the only incandescent bulb in my trailer, I think.

Larry
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:52 AM   #38
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Changed the majority of my interior incandescent bulbs to LED's and it made a huge difference in battery life over a three-day-two-night stay - no generator needed for 3 days (night occupancy only - no daytime activity). This is about double the battery life before the change. Any advise on replacing the small 63 automotive bulbs in the running lights (not for battery savings but for longevity of the LED's over incandescent bulbs)?
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:02 PM   #39
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Refrigerator Incandescent Bulb Type Matters

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Originally Posted by lsbrodsky View Post
......
I also replaced the refrig light with a festoon LED, the only incandescent bulb in my trailer, I think.

Larry
Replacing the fridge incandescent bulb with an LED is not always a good idea.

In the Dometic service manual for the RM 3762 and RM 3962, the operation section explains that in cold weather, the fridge will stay cold enough to not trigger a cooling cycle for a long time. This results in the freezer getting too warm. So if the fridge compartment is still cold enough at 35 minutes after the end of a cooling cycle, they turn on the light. The light heats the fridge, causing the thermostat to trigger a cooling cycle, which brings down the temp in both compartments.

I have the 3762 model in my trailer, and I'm keeping my incandescent bulb.
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:20 PM   #40
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Changed the majority of my interior incandescent bulbs to LED's and it made a huge difference in battery life over a three-day-two-night stay - no generator needed for 3 days (night occupancy only - no daytime activity). This is about double the battery life before the change. ?
Same here. I bought cheap Chinese made LED bulbs off eBay for about $1.50 each. I have accidentally left a light on for 2 or 3 days. It didn't draw the batteries down enough to change the gauge.
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