Running lights not working?

[DEWASSINC]

This is probably a stupid question and a simple answer.

I was replacing the 3 rear running lights at the top of my 34' Excella. This involved cutting the old black and white connections and splicing them to the new lights. I may have inadvertently touched the black connection to the aluminum skin while the lights were on (connected to the truck) - I now have no running lights at all. The interior lights, fans, etc. work fine.

I suspect I blew a fuse. Would this be a fuse in the truck that controls the running lights, as opposed to a fuse within the trailer?

[TG Twinkie]

There is no such thing as a stupid question.
Have you checked the fuses in the TV?
Do the tail lights on the TV work?
You may have separate fuses for the trailer lights. Look at the fuse layout (usually on the fuse box cover) for fuses having to do with tail (marker) lights and trailer marker lights.
All of this is in the TV.
Let us know what happens.

[Land Grover]

Any updates on this? I realized today, that I have the same problem. Brakes and signals all good. TV lighting is great. All other lights seem to be working.

[Hodum]

I had the same problem some time back and found that my truck had blown fuse that was designated for the trailer lights only. I replaced that fuse and lived happily ever after.

[mimiandrews]

Our Dodge 1500 TV also has a fuse that is dedicated to running lights (taillights included) on the trailer connection. It also provides power to the 12v charging line to the trailer.

We came really close to having no lights on the trailer at all while towing on a dark, rainy night because of old, bad wiring to the forward marker lights. Once that fuse blows, the trailer is dark. We made it home with the back lights only on the trailer. The fuse blew the next morning.

Suggest you investigate, and if your TV has such a fuse, find it and carry a few spares.

[cwf]

If you have a volt ohm meter, probe the connections of your trailer connector, trailer cord plug., not TV connector.

Check "ohms" from running light pin to ground pin. You will have a "low" ohm reading. Each trailer will read different ohms due to many factors.

Next, this must be done quickly then lights turned off... plug in new fuse and trailer connector. Flip lights on then off quickly while you Observe trailer lights noting any really bright ones or ones that do not work. If you note particular ones that is where to begin checking first.

If fuse blows, do not try another fuse!!!!! Find the problem!!!

Disconnect TV then remove lamp from the failing fixture. Check ohm again as you remove each one, note the values.

Fuses "blow" when power "draw" is too high. High current draw can be caused by corrosion or wrong load (bigger/brighter lights)...or just bad lights.

If lights fail when raining, the rain could be shorting out the circuit in the connector but most likely one of the light fixtures.

If you remove ALL the lamps on the trailer, turn on the lights on TV and it does not blow the fuse, then you probably need to check wiring ar each fixture.

[cwf]

Here is a typical schematic of the 7way plug in case you need it

[Fishboy]

Sounds like its the fuse in the tv. Usually a dedicated circuit for lights on trailer. 30amp in my 95 suburban

[Land Grover]

Thanks for the advice. I'll dig into this right away. No one wants to be caught out w/o lights.

[MegHighway1]

There is a 60 Caravanner in the back yard- as of last week!

Before I take it to the DMV I would like to get the lights working and brakes installed. The hydraulic cylinder was cracked and removed. Probably will need disc brakes.

Is there a site to find the electrical layout of this model?
What are the steps to find out if the electrical is working?

I think that I should find an electrician to help me with this!

Meg

[toastie]

I followed the attached diag. for my 1955 Safari.

toastie

[MegHighway1]

Thank you Toastie- I was looking at the different colored wires and now have some idea!

Can you tell me what the large 3EE battery could do? I think it provides current to two interior lights and maybe the water pump as well.

thank you!
Meg

[NevadaGeo]

Originally Posted by MegHighway1

There is a 60 Caravanner in the back yard- as of last week!

Before I take it to the DMV I would like to get the lights working and brakes installed. The hydraulic cylinder was cracked and removed. Probably will need disc brakes.

Is there a site to find the electrical layout of this model?
What are the steps to find out if the electrical is working?

I think that I should find an electrician to help me with this!

Meg

You mentioned hydraulic cylinder cracked, and disc brakes. You'll probly need to study into disc brakes and brake controllers. Most of the older hydraulic brakes systems worked off vacuum lines from the tow vehicle, which we don't have on newer vehicles. A lot of "trailer doctors" won't know how to help you and want to put you into inferior drum brakes.
Ohms is using a volt-ohm meter for checking for open circuits where the wires are not connected all the way around, or checking for shorts where wires are shorted out to something they shouldn't be touching. Not as complicated as folks make it sound.
A lot of the different "lights not lighting" is caused by poor connection in the umbilical wire to the trailer, or to the tow vehicle.

[MegHighway1]

Hi,

One question is since the trailer is light weight, are brakes needed?

If yes, which I think is probably the correct answer, then choices are: drum breaks or disk breaks.
The fellow looking at the axle today and its rusty leaf suspensions thought that perhaps a new axle and drum breaks would be the ticket.

He estimated that it would cost about 5,000.00 to have a new axle and disk brakes? That seems high!

What do you think?

Meg

[NevadaGeo]

Very high, probably more than twice. for one axle.

[MegHighway1]

Hi ,

Thank you - It is a relief to read your comment because that remark about how much one axle and breaks ( ?maybe suspension too ) was alarming.

Have you ordered an axle before and if so where?

Thanks again!
M

[dirigible25]

Originally Posted by DEWASSINC

I may have inadvertently touched the black connection to the aluminum skin while the lights were on (connected to the truck) - I now have no running lights at all.

based upon this, I am going with the fuse, more than likely in the Tow Vehicle. But for others out there with no running lights and a good fuse, or intermittant running lights, don't over look that many of these problems are related to a bad ground.