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Old 02-21-2011, 06:14 PM   #29
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Bermshot married no. It has been proven that marriage is the leading cause of divorce. LOL.
First a continuity test will show resistance between the green wire and ground as it is travelling through the bulbs which have resisitance. Poor grounds at the lamps will increase the resistance also. If the wire is overheating then yes you do have a short to ground. Electricity will flow unrestricted unless a device (lamp, appliance etc) to effectively slow it down.
The three wires coming out from the end cap are black(reverse),brown(right turn/stop) and red(left turn and stop). If they are coming down from inside the end cap they are supposed to go to their respective light connections. Powering them up will only send power back forward the the umbilical connector. You should be able to remove the taillights and the reverse lights from the housings and see what if anything is connected to them. If you need to you may be able to remove the lower rivets in the rear end cap and flex it outward to access the wiring for the rear upper clearance lights.
When you did a continuity test of the e-brake + was it still connected to the umbilical connector. If so it was still connected to the electric brake wire and will read continuity to ground. Both wires coming from the break-away switch are positive. Battery power comes from the charge line and feeds the tongue jack and carries on to the break-away switch. With the pin still in the switch the switch is open and no power will flow to the brakes. The other wire from the break-away switch is connected at the umbilical connector with the wire to the electric brakes and if the TV is connected will supply power to the brakes.
I kept the original round pin connector on the trailer and changed the TV end of the umbilical to the blade type to match the TV. I also altered the wiring to match today's pattern. By using both round and blade type connectors I can't inadvertantly reverse the umbilical and mess things up. Lots of people prefer the round type as they say that it keeps better contact than the blade type.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:18 PM   #30
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Checking for shorted wires

Just one suggestion. If I were checking for wires that I thought were shorted to ground. I would use an Ohm Meter; but I would also remove the bulbs from their sockets. That way you can tell for sure if the positive wire is actually shorted to ground. The bulbs give you what I call false ground readings.
If the jumper you were using is one of those you get from Radio Shack or something like it, they have very small wire, probably 22 guage. If you had more that 1 or 2 bulbs operating it would tend to get warm.
If you are using a battery without any current limit protection (a fuse) and connect it to a wire that is in fact shorted. Sparks will fly, wires could melt and even worse if there is a short directly to the skin of the trailer you could burn (blow) a hole right thru the skin.
If you are using a lead acid battery and it is in a poorly vented space where the hydrogen gas can build up and explode if you create a spark with your jumper, that's a very dangerous situation.
I have said it before and will continue to say it until I assume room temperature. It is very dangerous to use a battery with no current limit protection to check things out.
I don't mean to be an alarmist. But I have witnessed what happens when the unlimited current from a battery is shorted out. Wiring melts like molten lava and in extreme cases; the battery will literally explode. If you or someone were standing over it when it explodes you or they could be severely injured.
There are plenty of videos of batteries exploding; I would recommend watching one or two; it will give you a whole new perspective on what that device called a battery is capable of.
This is why I always recommend using a battery charger or at the very least a battery with a fuse wired in series with the positive terminal to check out the systems on your trailer. Every system in your TV is protected with a fuse or circuit breaker to prevent damage to the wiring.
All of the circuits in your trailer whether they be AC or DC have circuit breakers or fuses to protect from overloads and short circuits.
I'll get off my soap box now!
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:27 AM   #31
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Thanks all, it helps clear some things up as I did not always look at the resistance, only that I had continuity to ground. I was using a AGM computer back up type 5 A battery not fused. I never had the UC connected while testing the leads and in hindsite I may have flipped the connections. I tested all the leads and followed the TV code for pin placement and marked the corrosponding ends for the trailer plug. I never hooked up the green of yellow to the trl. connector once I thought I had a ground. Still, I did pull all the bulb from the old Markers that weren't working and checked for my batt. supplied power and had none. Replaced them all and still had no power to the rear upper Reds and had to have been able to get ground to at least one during that time but did not test as that is a lot of surface area that would be dead.
Do the light leads then go to the Univolt 1st through a fuse then on to the lights or T off from the harness as it comes into the trailer and then up into the roof at the front curb corner?
I got this Trl. from an older guy that started to pull the rear bath to fix the floor. He had alread cut some wires, including what I have just found out are the optic brake lights on the driver side and are now gone. He had some heart issues and the trailer sat for years and was a certified sanctuary for various rodents and raccoons, which is why I decided to gut it. He very well could have done some rewire work as all the tail & reverse ights work when I power them up at the connections(someone has put twist caps there)at the right corner with no inside cover to the light assy' on that side but is on the left.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:58 AM   #32
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Bermshotb the only wire from the umbilical connector the goes to the univolt is the large blue 8 guage wire. It is for a charge line and 12VDC+ from the TV is supplied to the battery through the univolt to recharge the trailer battery while driving. It is the only wired from the umbilical that is overload protected with a automatic resttting circuit breaker mounted at the umbilical connector.
The inside cover for the right taillight that is missing is important as that is what seals the entire taillight housing to the shell.
Since the PO has done some work unless you can figur out what he did I think unfortunately you may have to drop the rear interior end cap. Mine had problems with the rear upper center three clearance lights and the PO actually cut holes in the shell under the lights for access and gobbed in plumbers putty for a sealant. Needless to say they leaked.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:35 AM   #33
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I don't know if your trailer has a fuse box like the one in this '75 model. Maybe wasagachris can confirm this. My '74 Argosy does not have this box, at least I've never found it.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I don't know if your trailer has a fuse box like the one in this '75 model. Maybe wasagachris can confirm this. My '74 Argosy does not have this box, at least I've never found it.
I'm not sure exactly what year but either 74 or 75 A/S started using the fuses for the turn/running/brake lights etc. My 73 didn't have it and I know that 75's did. So if you say the 74 does not and the 75 does then I guess that 75 was the starting year.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:33 PM   #35
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My trailer does not have a fuse box, only in the Univolt. I ran by my storage yard while I had a little daylight and the Green wire, un-connected to the plug connection has .05 OHM resistance to the ground and the yellow connected to the red wire for the brakes has 1.0 OHM reading unconnected, so they are grounded somewhere. The 3 wires seem to be coming from the top of the left tail assy' as I reach up in the cap. Also found a few acorns drop out of the insulation so grateful to have some nurishment tonight. The brown and the black wire have resistance in the 10K area while the red had infinate. Nothing lighted up when power was applied and I had no voltage when I checked the corrosponding wire at the front plug connector. When I supply power to the red and black wire seperately the brake light does come on each side.
How heavy is this rear cap on a 71 Sovereign and how do you support it if I completely move it forward or drop it down, as it is all open for now? I may as well drop it now as my plans were to move the bath mid ship and have a rear bed, even though I have seen the post against the move. I was going to box in the cap some with cabinet work ontop of the exixting openings , but now might just cut them back flush with the natural curve,glass them flat and then build the cabinets with more usable space- off topic, though.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #36
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If ya need replacement wires, why not take off the rear lower panels and run the replacement wires down?
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:49 PM   #37
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Still need to get them up to the marker lights on top I have power to the tailight area. Just have nothing upstairs, so my wife says.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:09 PM   #38
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Fish tape em down? I'd at least try it before I pulled the cap.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:33 AM   #39
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Where would I hook the wires to or see where the break or ground is? It seems the problem is higher up than the taillight area and if those wires are compromised I would be splicing back into the problem. I may have 2 seperate problems because 1- I show a gound indicated from the origin of the green wire at the front. 2- I have no power indicated to any of the rear red markers so, i could have a ground in the early areas and a break in the rear. I just know that I have continuity to the rear tail running light, plate and all the amber markers if I apply power to the only point I have access to the green wire at the right tail assy'. So as I am trying to picture the schematic, I could have an ground between the origin and the first T going to the upper right or middle curbside marker.
I can guess that the harness goes to the rear and the red,brown,black and green then drop and split to the taillight assy' and at that point a T runs off tothe red markers and that is where the problem is. I don not know if they each have a pigtail running to each light or if they are in series so if the green wire is broken early in the route it kills the downline units?
I wish I could just run a parrallel wire but I can't get to them in the ceiling with that #%&* cap in the way.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:54 AM   #40
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Bermshot I just went and looked at mine and took some pics. The frist pic shows the end cap looking rearward. You can see the wiring harness coming down form the center of the roof. It runs along the center just off center on the curbside. You can see the branch feeding the upper rear center clearance lights. The second pic shows the harness then continuing down to the right rear taillight/ reverse light assembly. A branch feed off from that point to feed the lower curbside rear clearance light located just to the side of the taillight. The third pic shows the harness continuing below the rear window over to the left rear taillight/reverse light assembly and the end of the run is the lower rear claerance light located just to the side of the right rear taillight/reverse light assembly. You may be able to fish new wires from each upper clearance light down under the inner end cap and tie them into the existing harness. It would be tricky to do given the size of the hole in the shell behind each upper clearance light but using a coat hanger you might be able to get through with a wire and then once below the end cap you can run them over to the harness and tie in to the existing green wire. Then just tuck the wires back up under the end cap. The only problem I see is that if a break in the green wire exists in the harness behind the end cap it may be able to short to ground as it may be bared and that is why your jumper heated up quickly.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:58 AM   #41
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You do have all the bulbs removed . . . right? You have access to the green (running light) wire at every clearance light location. It'd help me figure out what you are doing of you'd post pictures of the trailer interior. I'm confused about what you have open and what's not open.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:59 PM   #42
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Thanks, pics tell a lot. I sure I have the proverbial and literal rats nest up in there.
Splitrock: I did have all the bulbs out at one time when testing and when I took all 12 of the marker lights off. I also am sure that they have been tampered with by human hands at some point. I just needed to know how they are routed and pigtailed from the source wire.
I think I will drop the cap now and redo the cover with sheet aluminum since I am determined to make the back as a bedroom with cabinets in the corners.
Can I get that cap out the door, I haven't measured it yet? Are any of my old interior parts worth anything out here, beside the standard -No but i'll take em off your hands.
Thaks again for the input to all.
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