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Old 04-02-2010, 12:49 PM   #15
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1) Brown wire....Right Stop & Turn....one wire to bargman brown wire and the other to the bargman white common ground

2) Red wire.......Left Stop & Turn......one wire to bargman red wire and the other to the bargman white common ground


On my 53, I run the red and brown wire to their respective lights, but the grounding of the lights come from attaching the fixture to the shell. I guess the lights are different.

Steve
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:11 PM   #16
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On my 53, I run the red and brown wire to their respective lights, but the grounding of the lights come from attaching the fixture to the shell. I guess the lights are different.

Steve
I think you just solved one of my problems, I was running ground to the bargman common ground when I should be grounding the light right to the shell, will give it a try..........thanks
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:19 PM   #17
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Wrong wiring diagram, below is the correct one for my job, thanks anyway......
Hard to wire over the Internet. Just curios, what is the diagram from?
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:23 PM   #18
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Hard to wire over the Internet. Just curios, what is the diagram from?
Sure
Bargman 7-Way Cable
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:29 PM   #19
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Is the Chevy side wired by you or the factory? I'm concerned that two different standards are being used.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:43 PM   #20
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Is the Chevy side wired by you or the factory? I'm concerned that two different standards are being used.
factory
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:55 PM   #21
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If I was in your shoes I would get a stab light or volt meter and verify that what is coming out of the Chevy matches up with the Airstream. Good luck!
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:00 PM   #22
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If I was in your shoes I would get a stab light or volt meter and verify that what is coming out of the Chevy matches up with the Airstream. Good luck!
The Chevy works find with our other Airstream........
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Old 04-02-2010, 03:44 PM   #23
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The Chevy works find with our other Airstream........

Do you know for sure that the two Airstreams are wired the same?
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:27 PM   #24
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As far as I know the hot (positive) side no matter what color of wire other than white goes directly to the lights, brakes or battery. If there is a white wire (the common ground negative) It is attached to the body somewhere somehow and does not travel all the way back to the connector from the individual lights except through the body ground. For example the running lights generally have the green attached to the base of lamp socket and the light fixture itself is screwed to the body as the ground. The yellow wire is the center wire in the connector it is an auxiliary wire generally used for back up lights if you have them. DC current is affected by long wire runs and size of the wire. I have checked voltages in the connector at our TV at over 12 volts and have 9.5 t0 10 volts at the running lights farthest from the TV. Still think you have some kind of a ground problem. Try checking voltages and grounds at the lights without the TV plugged in and the individual light circuits jumped to the black wire at the 11 o'clock position on the trailer connector. Then plug the TV in and check the for voltage and ground with and without the turn signals on. Might give you a lead on the problem.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:03 PM   #25
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As far as I know the hot (positive) side no matter what color of wire other than white goes directly to the lights, brakes or battery. If there is a white wire (the common ground negative) It is attached to the body somewhere somehow and does not travel all the way back to the connector from the individual lights except through the body ground. For example the running lights generally have the green attached to the base of lamp socket and the light fixture itself is screwed to the body as the ground. The yellow wire is the center wire in the connector it is an auxiliary wire generally used for back up lights if you have them. DC current is affected by long wire runs and size of the wire. I have checked voltages in the connector at our TV at over 12 volts and have 9.5 t0 10 volts at the running lights farthest from the TV. Still think you have some kind of a ground problem. Try checking voltages and grounds at the lights without the TV plugged in and the individual light circuits jumped to the black wire at the 11 o'clock position on the trailer connector. Then plug the TV in and check the for voltage and ground with and without the turn signals on. Might give you a lead on the problem.
What I did was take my volt meter and with the left turn signal turned on, touched the bargman red wire (left stop & turn signal) and the bargman white common ground wire and was getting 13.4V and approx 2V (between signals) then did the same for the brown wire which is the right stop & turn signal with same results. Everything work, emergency, brake and turn signals. So that tells me that I had it right in the first place. So I'm back to my original problem with the running lights.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:35 PM   #26
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Did you try connecting one lead of your voltmeter or continuity tester to the red wire or brown wire at the light socket and the other lead to the body of the trailer? If you have a ground problem your continuity tester will not light or light dimly or your voltmeter will show low voltage or reverse polarity.
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:45 PM   #27
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Did you try connecting one lead of your voltmeter or continuity tester to the red wire or brown wire at the light socket and the other lead to the body of the trailer? If you have a ground problem your continuity tester will not light or light dimly or your voltmeter will show low voltage or reverse polarity.
I know that I have my left stop & turn signal and right stop & turn signal right, the emergency, brake and turn signals working properly as described above with 13.4V and approx 2V (between signals). But now comes the strange part, when hooking up the running lights and the tail & license light to the bargman green wire all lights come on, even the bulbs to the L/R turn signal.
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:03 PM   #28
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Check all of the bulbs to make sure they are the right ones for the socket. Also check all the sockets, if someone replaced a single filament socket with a double there could be some kind of cross feed going on when you have the tail lights on.
I would start by removing all of the marker light bulbs as well as the tail light bulbs (if they are seperate from the brake light bulbs). Then connect the running light wire and install one bulb at a time to see when the problem arises. Start with the tail lights. If the brake and tail light element both come on with one bulb in place you are probably looking at a short between the tail and brake light wiring. Melted insulation or wire chafing or a wiring error. You may be able to locate the problem by disconnecting the wiring at the tail/brake lights one at a time, reconnect each one before going to the next if the problem does not go away.
Good Luck
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