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Old 12-13-2012, 06:29 AM   #1
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1966 20' Globetrotter
1966 20' Globetrotter
johnsoncity , Tennessee
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Running light problem need help.

I was ckecking out my running lights (jumper at eleven and one) no tow vehicle hooked up. All lights working except one. while working on the one light i shorted the wire.blew a fuse. Replaced blown fuse,still no lights.
Not very good on elec. Can someone give me a direction.
1966 Globe Globe Trotter
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:38 AM   #2
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Just my experience with our 63 Safari.....

Intermittent tear drops.....bad grounds, corroded bulb sockets. Cleaned/replaced all mount/ground screws replaced with stainless. Treated the bulb contacts, sockets and threads with dielectric grease.
POI.......all screws were very corroded and needed to be treated with penetrant before removing.....carefully.

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Old 12-13-2012, 06:39 AM   #3
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Which fuse did you replace? Do you still have 12 volts at the umbilical cord? Pin number 4 (the one at 1 o'clock).
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:25 AM   #4
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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No power at charge line (1 o'clock) Replaced fuse on Neg. to Neg. at fuse block. Checked all other fuses, at fuse box and converter.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:16 AM   #5
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Hilltop Lakes , Texas
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Check the wiring

When we had a running light problem on our trailer about a year ago, the trouble turned out to be the wires inside the walls of the trailer. Someone had installed wiring that was too small for the load of the 5 incandescent running lights across the front of the trailer.

It is possible to enlarge the hole in the aluminum skin (in the area that will be covered by the running light when it is reinstalled) enough to pull the wire through. Ours had totally fried insulation--wonder why we didn't have a fire.

It is also possible to fish in new wire through holes under the running light bases (none larger than a nickel).

See pictures of the old, bad wire in my thread starting 1/02/12 in the Lighting section of the Electrical Forums. I want to post a link here, but not sure I know how.

Good luck!
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:11 AM   #6
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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Thanks for all of you that have responded. Light were all working fine until i shorted one. Peplaced blown fuse (neg to Neg) checked all remaining fuses (good). all lights are relative new. Just do not have power on charge line ( 1'oclock on cord)
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:44 AM   #7
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Do you have 12 volts other places in the trailer? For example, do your interior lights work? If yes, then you probably have an in-line fuse on the battery wire in the umbilical cord that's blown. Tricky part might be finding it.

Don't just do a visual check on a fuse - check it with an ohm meter if you have one.

Chris
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
Don't just do a visual check on a fuse - check it with an ohm meter if you have one.

Chris
That's a good point but might not be enough I have heard of fuses and connections that read good with a meter but failed with any load.

Star checking for 12V at battery then at each end of the fuse then work your way till you can't find it. I recently worked on a trailer were the piece that holds the fuse had a bad connection to the fuse box.

By the way this is NOT a running light problem, it is a 12v charge line problem since if you hookup to your TV the problem you are having wont keep the running lights from working.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:35 PM   #9
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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Thanks again for the replys.
Yes my interior lights work on 12 volts.
If i am hooked up to my TV will i still charge my Battery when towing.
Will check for inline fuses tomorrow.

Checked all fuses with a continuty tester- all checked good
Have power on both sides of fuses at fuse panel

Will keep looking
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donh1 View Post
Thanks again for the replys.
Yes my interior lights work on 12 volts.
If i am hooked up to my TV will i still charge my Battery when towing.
Will check for inline fuses tomorrow.

Checked all fuses with a continuty tester- all checked good
Have power on both sides of fuses at fuse panel

Will keep looking
don,

Have you checked your charge line when hooked-up?
Check for power on the TV side and then on the trailer side using a test light, with and without a jumper ground wire running from a good ground on the TV to one on the trailer frame.

Bob
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donh1 View Post
If i am hooked up to my TV will i still charge my Battery when towing.
Nope. Right now you have a disconnect between the battery in your trailer and the umbilical cord. So, the TV will not be able to charge the battery until you get it fixed.

The umbilical cord should be connected to the rest of the trailer wiring inside the front wall, with access inside the trailer. It may be under a cover on the interior wall. There may be a fuse block there or an in-line fuse for the battery charge line on the umbilical cord. If nothing else, it'll give you another spot to check for 12 volts and help isolate the problem.

Ask questions and post pictures if you need additional help, especially if you're not sure what something is.

Good luck!

Chris
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:06 AM   #12
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What you have on the charge line may not be a fuse, per se, look for the little box breaker with two posts, test light will only help you if you disconnect positive battery cable.

You most likely will find breaker where pigtail terminates, joins to trailer harness.
Try and find it, measure volts both sides when plugged to TV......TV side at 13.5 or more???
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:56 AM   #13
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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Have traced wire from fuse box to where trailer wires hook to the umbilical cord. (have power to this point), cannot find a fuse or other devise at this point. Wire from fuse box hooks straight to umbilical cord black wire,but no power at hook up end of umbilical cord. Problem must be in umbilical cord.( molded end) cannot seperate.
Thanks again for all the responce.
Don
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:06 AM   #14
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ok Don,
go down to RV shop, get a new "RV7" 7 wire plug-- they should also give you the wiring schematic-- apparently your contact inside the molded plug is burned off, [common enough issue] -- take care and do it neat inside--- get a quality fitting [cheap is NOT BETTER] if this is more than you want to handle the RV shop should charge you half hour labor for the task.....
if you were close to me I would run out and do it for ya!!-- see it every week....well, maybe not that often, but quite a few "molded ends" fail, shore lines especially-- good luck, now you know where the failure is at least....
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:13 AM   #15
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Thanks Wickedrevs, I can handle the replacement end install, but if you were here, i would gladly let you do the work. Have a great week-end, and Merry Christmas to everyone.
Don
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:17 PM   #16
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Minno thanks,your direction and instructions were very helpful.
Don
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:27 PM   #17
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I use a 7-way tester
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:23 AM   #18
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I built one that tests the trailer, not the TV......easy, about $20 in parts...
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