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Old 10-14-2010, 04:38 PM   #1
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1973 25' Tradewind
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 12
Roof locker lights/ceiling fan out in 73 TW

Sorry if there's already a post similar to this - I'm having trouble getting the search function to work (so what makes me think I can get the lights to work in the AS???).
I was turning off the light in the ceiling light/fan last week and it kept turning and didn't catch to turn it off, so like a dummy I pushed on it a bit and it went out, along with the roof locker lights. I have the original manual so I can certainly look at the wiring diagram, but I don't know much about electrical stuff so not sure where to start. Theories would be appreciated!
Thanks,
PK
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:54 PM   #2
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Hi PK,

Sounds like you have a bad switch, and when you pushed on it, it either broke a connection that also feeds the roof locker lights, or it shorted something inside the fixture and blew a fuse. I'd start with the fuses and see if any of them are blown. If you find a blown fuse, you can try and replace it, with the knowledge that if the short inside the fixture still exists, it will just blow the fuse again. So have a few on hand (which is a good idea anyway).

If the fuse is blown, and blows again, then you’ll need to open up the fixture and see what's wrong. For the most part, once you figure out how to get into the fixture, the actual fix will be pretty easy. If you post some pictures of the fixture and switch in question, you can get some pretty detailed advice on how to get into it and replace the switch if you need to.

If the fuse is not blown, then you have an open connection. The most likely suspect area would be around the switch since that’s what you were playing with when the lights went out. Again, you’ll need to open up the fixture to get inside and see what’s wrong. If this is the problem, the fix will depend on where the connection is broken. It may require a new switch, or a simple re-connection of the wire.

Hope this helps.

Chris
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:06 PM   #3
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Thanks, Chris - I'll start there.

By the way, how do I tell by looking at the fuse if it's blown or not? Sorry, I really am a beginner...
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:12 PM   #4
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Here is the fixture and switch -
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:33 PM   #5
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No need to be sorry - we're all beginners at something sometime in our lives!

For the most part, a fuse is a plastic or glass tube or square with a small piece of metal in it. You can see the metal, and if you see a break in the piece of metal, then that fuse is blown. However, don't rely on just a visual check. Sometimes fuses will be blown and still ok. So, if you have a multi-meter, check the fuse with that as well. It should read 0 ohms. If you do not have a multi-meter, it's another one of those nice things to go buy. It can save you lots if heartache trying to track down an electrical problem.

Another good tool is a 12 volt test light. You can sometimes check the use in place with one of these, as long as you have access to both connectors in either side of the fuse. You connect the white lead of the test light to ground, or the negative side of the fuse panel. The trailer shell or frame should work ok Ė whatever you can get to if youíre not sure whatís positive or negative on the fuse panel. Then use the probe on the test light to check the fuses. Touch the probe to one side the fuse connecter, and then touch the probe to the other side. The light should come on when touches to the connector on either side of the fuse. If it comes on when touching one side, but not the other, then the fuse is blown.

Hopefully this all makes sense. Hereís a couple of links so you know what Iím referring to for a VOM and test light (I happen to have OíReilly bookmarked, itís not an endorcement ):

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR2/W2975C.oap?pt=N0221&ppt=C0371

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EQU1/3300.oap?keyword=multimeters+%26+analyzers

Chris
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:40 PM   #6
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Just saw the pics after I posted the above. So, 90% of the puzzling work is done - the switch and wires are exposed! I don't see any broken wires, so hopefully it's a bad switch. Which may have blown the fuse. For an exact replacement of that switch (if you end up needing one), I'd try Inland RV and talk to Andy.

Good luck!
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:57 PM   #7
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1973 25' Tradewind
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It does make sense, thanks so much - I'll go online and do a little shopping. I didn't realize this looked any different from the way it's supposed to look, after I took down the plastic cover. Part of the issue with me is that I'm afraid to touch it to take the switch off and look at it - I'm not going to get electrocuted, am I?

Thanks for helping the newbie!!!
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:08 PM   #8
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Nope - you won't get electrocuted. The 12 volt system in the trailer is pretty safe. The 110 VAC system is differnet, and much more dangerous to work on. But if the trailer is unpluged, it's safe as well since it will have no power.

Everything in that light/fan fixture is 12 volts. Just avoid touching a 12 volt live wire to the shell or anything metal.

Chris
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:18 PM   #9
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Will do - I'll update you when I have something to report!
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