Rivet size for running lights? Gaskets?

[Dingo Girl]

Hi,
First of all, this forum is great! I've learned more here than anywhere about Airstreams and Airstream repair. Thanks to all of you.
Here is my question>
Does any body know the diameter and length of the rivets used to attach the running lights to the body of the trailer. They are original to the AS and are oval shaped.
Also any tips on gaskets for the running lights would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Sherri

[overlander63]

Sherri, I'd probably use a pair of stainless steel screws in place of the rivets, and screw them in gently. After 40 years, the plastic in the housings will have become very brittle, and may crumble if they encounter the stress of riveting. For gaskets, I'd use a bead of aluminum colored ParrBond.

[eubank]

I second Terry's advice: Use stainless steel screws, and use them gently.

I got kind of tired of lots of goop to seal lights, so cut out rubber gaskets from an old inner tube. They seem to work.


Lynn

[63air]

Gald this question got asked as I'm about to replace my running lights and had wondered which way to go rivets or screws.

[Alwhisman]

I used stainless screws as well

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Dingo Girl

Hi,
First of all, this forum is great! I've learned more here than anywhere about Airstreams and Airstream repair. Thanks to all of you.
Here is my question>
Does any body know the diameter and length of the rivets used to attach the running lights to the body of the trailer. They are original to the AS and are oval shaped.
Also any tips on gaskets for the running lights would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Sherri

Sherri.

Use stainless steel screws.

But, before you fasten the clearance lights down, make sure the wire on the back side is sealed with Vulkem sealer.

Then fasten the light base down.

Seal the light base at the top and both sides with Parbond sealer.

Do not seal the bottom of the light base.

Old clearance lights should be replaced.

You can replace them with like kind and quality, or you can upgrade them with LED lights, which are far brighter at night than the regular lamps.

Andy

[Dingo Girl]

Thanks everyone for all of the answers. I'll be back.
Sherri

[Mikethefixit]

I replaced all my marker lites last spring. I used stainless steel screws and lots of sealer on the threads before installing and then sealed along to top of the lites. Leave the bottom open.
My lites were as describe above.Original,33 yrs old and were crumbling so they would not hold a bulb. I went to my local Fruehuf Semi Trailer dealer and bought what I needed.Red and Amber,they were like $2.00 each. I also put sealer where the wire came out of the shell.
Keepin my fingers crossed XX no leaks yet that I have noticed.
Roger

[MikeAir]

Is there a separate wiring diagram for the running lights and brake lights that run in concert with the tow vehicle running lights and brake lights? I am attempting to fix a running/marker light on the "forehead" of my 1973 Overlander, specifically the far one on the passenger side nearest the trailer door. It was out, so we first tried a bulb, then purchased a replacement light housing with new bulb, but it still won't come on. Is there an in-line fuse? How do I get to the fuse? Help! Once I get it going I will follow the advice about screws and ParrBond. Thanks for any help or advice.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by MikeAir

Is there a separate wiring diagram for the running lights and brake lights that run in concert with the tow vehicle running lights and brake lights? I am attempting to fix a running/marker light on the "forehead" of my 1973 Overlander, specifically the far one on the passenger side nearest the trailer door. It was out, so we first tried a bulb, then purchased a replacement light housing with new bulb, but it still won't come on. Is there an in-line fuse? How do I get to the fuse? Help! Once I get it going I will follow the advice about screws and ParrBond. Thanks for any help or advice.

Remove an adjoing clearance light. You will find that it's connected to a green wire. That green wire simply goes from one clearance light to another.

It would be very unusual that a wire would be disconnected from one clearance light, to another, but not impossible. You can also, using a coat hanger, feed a new wire from side to side,

The typical clearance light problem, is lack of a "good ground" that it depends on for a complete circuit.

Andy

[ROBERT CROSS]

POI....use stainless fasteners on ALL things exterior.

Also use..Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-up Grease, 3 oz Tube: Automotive on all electric connections, mount screw threads, bulb sockets, gaskets.. anything you don't want to seize up after exposure to the weather, ask me how I know.

[63air]

I just got my new running lights wired up and am about to reinstall them . I want to make sure I get them sealed correctly. The ones I took off (original to the trailer) were all sealed/bedded in with what appeared to be a butyl tape that was completely around the back of the light, no leaks but the only ground is the three screws , as the back of the light is not touching the trailer.

If I follow Andy correctly, a better and easier method is to:

1. Seal the back of the light itself where the wire comes out , with Vulkem

2. Then screw it tight to the trailer with stainless screws. Do I need a little Vulkem on the screws?

3.Seal the top and sides only , with a bead of Parbond

For my side markers I had to drill a second hole to feed the light fixture wire into the trailer as the new fixture wire didn't line up with with the hole for the original. Do I seal that original hole with something (I'm thinking a small piece Aluminum tape or is just the Parbonding of the light good enough?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by 63air

I just got my new running lights wired up and am about to reinstall them . I want to make sure I get them sealed correctly. The ones I took off (original to the trailer) were all sealed/bedded in with what appeared to be a butyl tape that was completely around the back of the light, no leaks but the only ground is the three screws , as the back of the light is not touching the trailer.

If I follow Andy correctly, a better and easier method is to:

1. Seal the back of the light itself where the wire comes out , with Vulkem

2. Then screw it tight to the trailer with stainless screws. Do I need a little Vulkem on the screws?

3.Seal the top and sides only , with a bead of Parbond

For my side markers I had to drill a second hole to feed the light fixture wire into the trailer as the new fixture wire didn't line up with with the hole for the original. Do I seal that original hole with something (I'm thinking a small piece Aluminum tape or is just the Parbonding of the light good enough?

2. Yes, apply a little Vulkem to the screws.

Seal that original hole, with Vulkem.

Andy

[63air]

Thanks Andy ,looks like tomorrow it is off to the shop to finish up this project.

[stratguysrv]

I'll be replacing the exterior lights on my '71 Safari this weekend. I went old school, with metal bases and bulbs. I have to say this site is so great, the information here is priceless.

I do have one question; what is the best size and type of stainless screw to use?

Thanks,

[Minno]

I used #8, 1 inch long. They seemed to fit the old rivet hole perfectly as long as you don't try and overtighten them.

Chris