Replacing marker lights 2010

[Ste and Bre]

We have a 2010 23 FB FC and I was noticing some small corrosion around the marker lights. Took one off and found out that our year was one of the ones they didn't have gaskets behind the lights. The light base would wear into the skin coating and corrosion would start. Ordered the new style gasket and one new marker light because tabs broke trying to get the lense off. New lense new style steel tabs. Now for all the issues. All old lenses have plastic tabs that break off getting the lense off. All crimp wire connections are inside the skin behind a big glob of caulking. The caulk was applied from the inside. Cannot pull wires out through the caulk. Seems to be factory as the caulking was done fro the inside. Finally broke the old lenses to get to the wire inside the lense and cut away from the light then take light off and leave about three inches of wire sticking out of skin. Plan is to solder the new lights to that wire and not even try to find the crimp connection behind the caulk. Use Nyalic clear coat to fix small corrosion and spray over places worn but no corrosion started. Questions: What was Airstream thinking caulking the wire in behind the skin? What were they thinking putting the light base directly on the skin? I have the Airstream gaskets but need ten more lights. Is there any other source for the tear drop maker light that is the same as the Airstream? They must have the new metal tabs not the plastic ones.

[Bgibbs]

How do you gain access to the sealant glob holding the wiring connectors? I am installing a backup camera and I only have about an inch of wire to work with. I was going to strip off about 1/4" of insulation off the wires and I accidentally cut one of the wires. After repairing the wire, the rubber grommet is up against the light and I don't know how to get the grommet back in the hole. If I had only been more careful and not cut the wire.

[Roadroamin]

I am also looking to replace the marker lights on our 2011, same problem with corrosion around the light fixture. Am I reading you right, do the light break when prying it off?

[bel73]

I had to replace all the lights on our 2010 for the same reasons. You can pull on the wires to get enough slack to work with. Just grab them a pair of pliers and pull.

[Roadroamin]

So where did you get the lights from?

[sheriff1]

Same issue, following to see where a good source of replacements might be

[bel73]

I ordered my lights from the local dealer. Also added the Classic style trim rings to each light. Definitely not a cheap project, but turned out awesome!

[Ste and Bre]

If you are replacing the marker lights completely I would suggest taking a channel lock pliers and braking the plastic globe part off. Basically the red or orange part. You will then see the wires were they hook into the light cut them as long as you can then remove the light base. this will leave you a couple inches or more of wire sticking out of the trailer. Use the new lights and gasket from your Airstream dealer but ask if the new light has metal or plastic tabs to clip to the base. Only let them send the metal.the plastic tabs age and brake off when removing. When reinstalling the light I soldered the new light to the wire left sticking out of the trailer with marine shrink tube used to cover the solder. I cut a pocket in the gasket to allow the extra wire to coil there. I have pictures of that but on my Ipad. I will try and post those shortly. Fixed the corrosion with Nyalic.

[Ste and Bre]

Here is a picture of how I modified the gasket. The gaskets I had could be peeled apart into two sections. the section that held the light base away from the skin and the section that sealed inside the light base. I peeled the two apart and cut a pocket for the wires in the top section and then stuck them back together. the bottom part would keep the wires from rubbing on the trailer skin. The top piece on the cardboard is the modified part. the bottom left part is the part that will sit against the trailer skin. The bottom right of the picture is the two pieces back together with a small pocket to coil the wire. Hope this helps