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BogieGolf · 10-08-2008, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tde318

Thanks again for all the ideas.

"CanoeStream", your 3 blown fuses where in the truck I assume, right?

Below should be a picture of the new light. The black lead was factory installed, it goes behind the light to the black out of the trailer. The white was put there by me, just like the originals. My thought was to disconnect the white and wrap it around the screws that hold the light to the trailer.

But I don't want to do that 7 times just yet. As suggested, I'll start with the TV and work my way back.

Hi,

From your photo, it looks like your running lights have the black and white (negative and positive) wires both connected to the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb. If so, this is a dead short.

Also, it appears that the center pin of the light bulb is common (electrically connected) to the mounting screws that are essentially grounded to your trailer. Basically, the brass colored metal is supposed to be positive and the silver metal is supposed to be negative.

If this is the case, you have blown a fuse somewhere. If not your TV, it will be the one in your trailer.

Remedy the dead short by removing the ground wire from the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb and replace the blown fuse.

You will need to connect only the positive wire to the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb. The negative wire will not be used because your replacement light appears (again, from your picture) to pick up the ground from the mounting screws.

I am replacing my lights with LED’s from Vintage Trailer Supply and am running into the same issue – their LED lights don’t need a ground wire. They get ground from the mounting screws.

Hope this helps.

Chris

purman · 10-08-2008, 08:14 AM

Yep, put the ground on the screw and it should work after you replace the fuses...

Mikethefixit · 10-08-2008, 08:29 AM

I also spotted the problem the White wire does NOT connect to the same place as the black. Black is hot, White is ground and (U really don't need the white wire) should be connected to one of the mounting screws. In connecting White and Black together U have blown an internal fuse in the fuse panel . DAH result not power.
I just replaced all my marker lites in June ,mine only had one Black wire for each lite and fixtures are grounded to the body by the screws.
Take off all the white wires and make them ground U should be good to go. Trust me I have changed 100's of these in my 45 yrs in a big truck. This system is no different.

aaumpine · 10-08-2008, 08:57 AM

Is your photo upside down? If not your weep holes should be on the bottom.

tde318 · 10-08-2008, 09:19 AM

I know what I'll be doing tonight. Thanks.

There are 6 weep holes on these things (from InlandRV) two top, two sides and two on the bottom. I didn't use water-proof crimp connectors on the back which is why I think I should cover the ones on top and sides.

HowieE · 10-08-2008, 11:06 AM

WOW

I am sorry I did not study your picture in detail when I first commented. The White wire is your short. The way it shows in the picture both Black and White are attached to the same point. It should go under either of the screws that mount the fixture to the trailer. That white wire is not really needed with an Airstream, the Airstream body is the return path for the lights, but as long as it is there use it as noted. 2 ground paths will not hurt.

The White wire is for SOBs that do not have a metal body and thus need a separate path to ground.

As a first test just remove the lens and lift all of the white wire off the terminal. If the lights work then you can connect the white wire to as noted as a backup.

As for the weep holes I would leave at least one open on the bottom just to make sure there is a way for any water that gets in behind the fixture to get out.

Again sorry I missed that.