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Old 10-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #15
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I had the same problem when replacing some bulbs, turned out to be a fuse on the TV. I had to pull each fuse until I found the one that was blown. I would not suggest having the trailer plugged in until finished with each light or until you are totally finished, less likely to blow the fuse.

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Old 10-07-2008, 10:24 PM   #16
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Oh yeah----are the bulbs good? try to wiggle them with the power on.

Bibbs
Even more obvious: Are there even bulbs in the new fixtures?
I'm pretty sure you would have noticed empty holes where bulbs should go, but you never know...
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:56 PM   #17
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Some TVs have a separate electrical tow circuit for the lights on a trailer so having the tailights work on the TV does not necessarily mean you got juice to the trailer.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:28 AM   #18
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Thanks again for all the ideas.

"CanoeStream", your 3 blown fuses where in the truck I assume, right?

Below should be a picture of the new light. The black lead was factory installed, it goes behind the light to the black out of the trailer. The white was put there by me, just like the originals. My thought was to disconnect the white and wrap it around the screws that hold the light to the trailer.

But I don't want to do that 7 times just yet. As suggested, I'll start with the TV and work my way back.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:38 AM   #19
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Test the socket on the TV with a volt meter while the parking lights are on. If there was a blown fuse in the TV that happened since you installed the new lights on the trailer I would look for a short in your work on the trailer.

Some marker light fixtures do not have a clearance for the wiring in the back of the fixture. That and the fact that Airstream does not place the wire hole on center to the fixture can result in a pinched wire and thus a short when tightening down on the fixture.

To test for a short in the trailer wiring. Make up a wire with a 15 amp fuse in it long enough to get from the trailer battery to the umbilical. Put the wire on the trailer battery positive post and touch the marker light terminal in the umbilical. If the fuse blows you have a short in the marker light circuit.

If you find a short I would remove the fixtures one by one looking for a contact between a wire and the trailer body at the point of entry.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:02 AM   #20
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Most excellent. Thanks for the step-by-step HowieE, very helpful.

As far as sealing, I was planning in applying Parabond to the top and sides covering the weep holes. Does that sound about right?

Thanks again.

Todd
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:10 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by tde318 View Post
Thanks again for all the ideas.

"CanoeStream", your 3 blown fuses where in the truck I assume, right?

Below should be a picture of the new light. The black lead was factory installed, it goes behind the light to the black out of the trailer. The white was put there by me, just like the originals. My thought was to disconnect the white and wrap it around the screws that hold the light to the trailer.

But I don't want to do that 7 times just yet. As suggested, I'll start with the TV and work my way back.
Hi,

From your photo, it looks like your running lights have the black and white (negative and positive) wires both connected to the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb. If so, this is a dead short.

Also, it appears that the center pin of the light bulb is common (electrically connected) to the mounting screws that are essentially grounded to your trailer. Basically, the brass colored metal is supposed to be positive and the silver metal is supposed to be negative.

If this is the case, you have blown a fuse somewhere. If not your TV, it will be the one in your trailer.

Remedy the dead short by removing the ground wire from the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb and replace the blown fuse.

You will need to connect only the positive wire to the brass piece that is common to the outer shell of the light bulb. The negative wire will not be used because your replacement light appears (again, from your picture) to pick up the ground from the mounting screws.

I am replacing my lights with LEDís from Vintage Trailer Supply and am running into the same issue Ė their LED lights donít need a ground wire. They get ground from the mounting screws.

Hope this helps.

Chris
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:14 AM   #22
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Yep, put the ground on the screw and it should work after you replace the fuses...
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:29 AM   #23
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I also spotted the problem the White wire does NOT connect to the same place as the black. Black is hot, White is ground and (U really don't need the white wire) should be connected to one of the mounting screws. In connecting White and Black together U have blown an internal fuse in the fuse panel . DAH result not power.
I just replaced all my marker lites in June ,mine only had one Black wire for each lite and fixtures are grounded to the body by the screws.
Take off all the white wires and make them ground U should be good to go. Trust me I have changed 100's of these in my 45 yrs in a big truck. This system is no different.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:57 AM   #24
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Is your photo upside down? If not your weep holes should be on the bottom.
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:19 AM   #25
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I know what I'll be doing tonight. Thanks.

There are 6 weep holes on these things (from InlandRV) two top, two sides and two on the bottom. I didn't use water-proof crimp connectors on the back which is why I think I should cover the ones on top and sides.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:06 PM   #26
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WOW

I am sorry I did not study your picture in detail when I first commented. The White wire is your short. The way it shows in the picture both Black and White are attached to the same point. It should go under either of the screws that mount the fixture to the trailer. That white wire is not really needed with an Airstream, the Airstream body is the return path for the lights, but as long as it is there use it as noted. 2 ground paths will not hurt.

The White wire is for SOBs that do not have a metal body and thus need a separate path to ground.

As a first test just remove the lens and lift all of the white wire off the terminal. If the lights work then you can connect the white wire to as noted as a backup.

As for the weep holes I would leave at least one open on the bottom just to make sure there is a way for any water that gets in behind the fixture to get out.

Again sorry I missed that.
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:22 AM   #27
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A beautiful thing...

Had to replace one 15A fuse in the TV and made the white wire adjustments as mentioned.

Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:44 AM   #28
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Sweet, glad it worked out.... I did the same thing replacing some plugs in an old house once... Blew the fuse and had to switch the wires around...
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