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Old 01-20-2008, 01:36 PM   #15
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Shot of those LEDs taken at dusk, slightly blurred.
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:06 PM   #16
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Crispyboy--nice job on the soldering&crimping! Looks good!

I used the 16-LED from vehiclelights.com and they also use two wires, so I had to create a similar ground. I used some lithium grease between the grommet and the shell of the A/s to ward off corrosion. It's a good idea to seal everything up as tight as possible. Another post had pics of a newer A/s and nice neat holes w/grommets--OTOH, my holes looked like they had been punched out with the blunt end of a phillips screwdriver!

DavidZ71--your lights look very good!
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:07 AM   #17
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Dietz645,
Do you have a multimeter? This is a great tool to own for house/vehicle/trailer projects.
If you do own one - test for voltage at red wire (power), test for continuity on the white wire (ground).
You probably have the setup as suggested - red wire is power and white wire is the ground.
The LED lights will have two wire - power and ground. The incandescant lights will probably be one wire - power and grounded through the screw.
You could use either -
If using a one wire light do as a previous poster said and put an eyelet connector on ground and put between the light and shell. Use dielectric grease one the connection between the shell and ground. Use sealer around the top of the light.
Good Luck.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
Carl,
The led unit I mentioned before and have pictured below is from Led Truck Lights, Led stop lights, Led clearance lights, led Marker lights, Led trailer lights, truck lights, led strobe lights. You are making this much harder than it really is. All you have to do is crimp on one of those female end connectors to each wire of the light, plug them into the male connector you have in your picture, make sure the wires are not hanging out from the flange at the edge of the light and screw the light back on. I promise you it is that easy. The female connector I used had a plastic cover around it and this keeps the wire from grounding to the aluminum. You could also use shrink insulation as shown by a previous poster. You then run a bead of Trempro, Sikaflex or Vulcum over the top edgeto prevent water from getting behind the light and through the hole in the trailer where the wires enter. Trust me, it was so much easier than the work I had to do with the LEDs-R-US lights.
I do want to clarify that the high count LED bullseye clearance lights are the two wire models from this company. They are about a buck higher than the one wire led models from that place. They are worth it though.
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Amsoil synthetics all around
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:24 PM   #19
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Problem Solved - Thanks

Thank you for all your helpful replies. I was making it much harder than it had to be, as pointed out by some of the posts. Today after running to Wal-Mart, I spent a small fortune in replacement and spare mini-fuses for the truck fuse block, and I finally got the lights to work. I put shrink wrap around the white ground lead terminal as I am hesitant to just cut the wire. There isn't that much sticking out from the trailer and I don't want to cut it short if I ever need that wire. I connected the red lead from the trailer to the black lead from the light and mounted the light to the trailer which provided the ground. When I turned on the truck lights the new marker light came on and didn't blow a fuse in the truck. It is bitter cold here in south east PA so the rest of the lights will have to wait until old man winter releases us.

We bought the trailer in Ohio as a second trailer to use on a permanent site at Penn Wood Airstream Park in Clarion, PA. Now I have to finish installing the laminate wood floor. After that it is off to P&S for an exterior make-over in mid-April. Then from P&S it goes directly to Penn Wood for the opening rally in early May. By the time we are finished with it, it should be better than new. I will post pictures as the floor progresses and finsihed product after it comes back from P&S.
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