Rear Lights

[mosbymorgan]

I posted this question in a different forum and just realize that I should have posted it here. I have a 30 foot 2011 Flying Cloud that is new to us. We have had several smaller, non-Airstream, trailers before and I have been able to do most of the maintence with not too much drama. And I consider myself a reasonable intelligent guy handy with tools. But for the life of me I cannot figure out how to change a burned-out bulb in the rear light assembly. This is so embarassing. Specifically it is the brake light. Don't laugh, but I can't get the aluminum housing off. I've removed the 4 screws that I though held the housing on, but with the screws taken off, the housing is still securely attached to the trailer. Do I need to remove some other set screw(s), is there some sort of adhesive/sealer keeping it on, do I just to yank it off, or what? And if there is some sort of adhesive/sealer used, what kind is it so I can reapply it.

[mevans426]

I wish I could help you, but sadly I have a potentially even more laughable problem - I just joined the forum to ask about it but its similar enough that I should probably try it here first. The rear brake light on our 1971 Ambassador is out and while I could get the cover off easily enough (just three screws on this old-timer), I can't get the dang bulb itself out! I tried twisting, pulling, everything else I could think of until the glass bulb itself finally came off, but the base is still stuck in there nice and tight.
I don't know if it's the socket's 42 years of corrosion that's the problem and it's just stuck, or if it's my own 41 years of being a dummy, but if there's a trick to changing one of these old bulbs someone can share, or advice on how to get the base out with the bulb off, I'd sure appreciate it.
Thanks!
Matt

[TG Twinkie]

The inability to remove the bulb from the socket is because of corrosion of the socket and the spring that holds the bulb in place. To can try using penetration oil. Let it soak, then use the business end of needle nose pliers. Stick both jaws inside the broken bulb base and twist. You need to push in and twist counterclockwise when removing the bulb. MAKE SURE THE LIGHT SWITCH IS OFF.
Make plans to replace the old base with a new one.

[mevans426]

That's really helpful, thank you very much. I'll give it a try.

[mosbymorgan]

I was able to talk to a very helpful individual at the Airstream service department. There are four set screws that hold the aluminum light housing on. These need to be removed. There is also a sealer that is used to hold the housing onto the trailer body. This sealer is used to make a watertight seal, but also acts as an adhesive to hold the housing on. This sealer needs to be cut (CAREFULLY!) with a box cutter or some other bladed cutter. The old seal needs to be removed from all surfaces. Once the offending light is replace the housing needs to be reattached with new seam sealer. The Airstream product, available on their website, for this is ACRYL-R. It is a product designed to seal mechanically fixed joints. The product can be purchased in a 16 oz. can for $24.95. There is an option to buy the can with a pump applicator for $47.90. That’s what I did. There is a third option to purchase an Airstream sealant kit for $59.95 that has these products plus a couple of others. Maybe I should have done that. Anyway, you goop this stuff on fairly carefully to the housing, reposition the housing back on the trailer, and tighten the set screws. And voila! - there you are.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mosbymorgan

I was able to talk to a very helpful individual at the Airstream service department. There are four set screws that hold the aluminum light housing on. These need to be removed. There is also a sealer that is used to hold the housing onto the trailer body. This sealer is used to make a watertight seal, but also acts as an adhesive to hold the housing on. This sealer needs to be cut (CAREFULLY!) with a box cutter or some other bladed cutter. The old seal needs to be removed from all surfaces. Once the offending light is replace the housing needs to be reattached with new seam sealer. The Airstream product, available on their website, for this is ACRYL-R. It is a product designed to seal mechanically fixed joints. The product can be purchased in a 16 oz. can for $24.95. There is an option to buy the can with a pump applicator for $47.90. That’s what I did. There is a third option to purchase an Airstream sealant kit for $59.95 that has these products plus a couple of others. Maybe I should have done that. Anyway, you goop this stuff on fairly carefully to the housing, reposition the housing back on the trailer, and tighten the set screws. And voila! - there you are.

If you had changed the tail lights to LED's, that issue would never show up again for the rest of your life.

Plus, they provide more light in the daylight than the originals do at night.

Andy

[ROBERT CROSS]

A handy addition to the AS tool kit.....


Coat bulb base & contacts....many other uses too. Rubber window seals, door & window latches, electrical contacts etc.

Bob

[BAB]

Mosby--if this is like the clearance lights, yes, there is a foam pad with incredibly strong two sided glue tape that holds it together. I was able to separate this with a lot of very careful effort. (I was installing a Voyager camera system and needed to tap into 12V up there). What you'll read on these Forums is to also make sure that your lights are well sealed as they can be a source of water leaks.