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Old 01-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #43
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I had something like this in mind for the license plate at one time. There are smaller and cheaper as well to house a single led spot for various locations. Perhaps to get rid of the old yankee and use the non functioning battery vent hole.


SDG 331340 - Clam Shell Vent by Sea Dog - Clam Shell Vents Ventilation - All Points Marine
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:50 PM   #44
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Here is a pic I copied from Ebay of the flat lens version of that LED lamp...
Maybe the beam pattern is better...
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #45
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I took some measurements tonight..
The lamp I have has the convex lens, and the description says it puts out 900/1000 lumens of pure white light... but the reality is that its more like a warm white as the center of the beam is white, but the lens or something adds a yellow tint to it that gets stronger as it get to the edges...
What I guess I am trying to say is it is not that brash blue-white light.

The beam is a fairly well defined circular pattern with quite good consistancy of light within the pool.
At approx 24" off a surface the light pool is 18" diameter.
At approx 48" away the pool is 40" diameter.
At approx 62" away the pool is 58" diameter.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:28 PM   #46
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I checked the step light tonight. I used electrician's tape to block out one segment (of the four segments) at a time. Believe it or not, one segment is more than enough light for the step. Three little diodes. Max current is 35 milliamps on bright and about 10 milliamps on dim.

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Old 01-10-2013, 09:55 AM   #47
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The step light

Getting a wire into the step area is not straightforward. I happened to have the inside door trim removed because of a wiring problem with the over-door light, so it was simple to put the inside skin back from the door frame and thread the wire into the interior. This trailer has carpet, so pulling the carpet back revealed a natural space between the wall and the carpet nail strip. I drilled a hole down into the step area and put the carpet back down over the wire. Viola!

Another path might be straight down into the banana skin area, then sideways into the step area.
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After I determined that only one 3-LED segment of the strip was needed, I made a small aluminum fixture to hold it in place. Three 1/4 holes allowed the use of two pieces of aluminum to clamp the strip, protect it, and still let all the light shine out (the number of rivets is indicative of poor planning, not excessive structural design).

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The lip a the outer edge of the step area requires the light to be placed back (inwards) about 4" so that it can illuminate the whole step. The angled plate is merely a shade to direct the light mostly towards the step. Without it, there is a large illuminated circle under the trailer. Not a bad thing, but it made me think I needed to install hydraulics to get the total low rider effect--not. (this photo is looking up from the ground)

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Old 01-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #48
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Installing switches in what I think of as the "right" place requires getting wires from the eyebrow area and the scare light over to the door. Believe it or not, you can easily fish wires from the eyebrow into the wall by the door. You'll need to drill a hole in the rib that is forward of the window to bring the wires through--make sure you grommet it. I like all my switches in a row (like in a house). You can actually fit four comfortably next to the door and below the window. One of the nice things about this spot is it has 12V available right there.

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My original intent was to move the scare light switch, which I think is in the dumbest location. Did I say stupid? Well, I meant to.

The three switches next to the door now control the over-door light and step light* (bright/dim), the scare light replacement (bright/dim), and an interior overhead light (bright only). The old scare light switch controls the party circuit to the front markers (another case of baaaadddd planning--I had no idea I was going to do party lights when I started this).

* I don't think I mentioned that you need two diodes to separate the step light from the over-door light so that when the switch is at dim, the over-door light voltage doesn't get to the step light and make it too bright. Schematics, on request, via PM. It's really pretty simple.

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Old 01-10-2013, 12:07 PM   #49
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I've got an extra scoop like the one in post 24 you can have. I got it off an Argosy and it has at least several layers of paint on it.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:46 PM   #50
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Marshall, I'll pick up that scoop if no else needs it. I'm heading down to Santa Fe in a couple weeks.
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I got requests for the schematic, so I'll post it here. Although this is simple, you still need a terminal block or small circuit board to mount the diodes (rectifiers, actually) and resistors.

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The real killer is if you only have one light fixture (or identical fixtures in parallel). You only need the SPDT switch and one resistor. You could fabricate this like an in-line fuse and wouldn't need a terminal block or circuit board.

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Old 01-11-2013, 12:21 AM   #51
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For comparison here are some photos or the LED4RV scare light:1.The old scare light on 2. The new scare light uninstalled 3. The new scare light on.
It has 15 LEDs and it is very bright
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:25 AM   #52
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Zep,
Thanks for posting the diagrams. I have another question about the scare light concept. What is is supposed to scare? Should it scare wild animals or bad people away from your trailer when you are isolated deep in the interior of the forest? Share about the scare if you will. I'm ignorant about this one!

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Old 01-11-2013, 08:44 AM   #53
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"Scare" light is the unofficial term. My 72 Service Manual calls it a "flood" light. Now if you look at my above post the "flood" light with the single 10 watt bulb is not very accurate. The LED4RV replacement does live up to the terms flood and scare.

Do all LEDs have the same draw? How many LEDs equals 10 watts? How does the draw of my new 15 LED scare light compare with OEM? The info from LED4RV says LEDs use 12% of the power of incandescent. Per LED? compared to what? Sounds like my 15 LED scare light might use a little more juice than the OEM, but I am happy to have the extra light when I need it. I probabably won't be using it as casually as before though because it is very bright.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:18 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
...Do all LEDs have the same draw? How many LEDs equals 10 watts? How does the draw of my new 15 LED scare light compare with OEM? The info from LED4RV says LEDs use 12% of the power of incandescent. Per LED? compared to what? Sounds like my 15 LED scare light might use a little more juice than the OEM, but I am happy to have the extra light when I need it. I probabably won't be using it as casually as before though because it is very bright.



Geez, Marshall, I'll send you the book...
  1. Same draw: no
  2. How many = 10W: depends on the LED(s) and whether or not they have a good heat sink (yes, high power LEDs can get hot, which kills their life). For example, the 10-LED discs using the SMD 5050 LEDs (each 5050 actually has three LEDs inside), draws about 2.1W and puts out noticeably more light than a 10W halogen and do not get hot. As a comparison, I expect to receive some 10W spotlights (see post #44 above) today and will see how they are constructed.
  3. Compare to OEM incandescent: I bet you are drawing less than 300 milliamps, which is about 12% of the old bulb. For the whole thing, with all its 15 LEDs. The comparison is to an incandescent of the same (roughly) light output. For the same light output, you can count on the LED drawing only 1/6th or 1/7th of what the incandescent draws, or less. If you just want background lighting and since the LEDs are so easy to dim, I've found you can easily get by with 1/50th of what the OEM lights were drawing. It's almost like an on-off switch is not needed...
--------------------

Steve, maybe Marshall answered your scare light question?

--------------------

Heads up, all. Some of the LED products are NOT dimmable. Well, they are, sorta, but the voltage range is so narrow that for all practical purposes they are not dimmable. In LUMATIC's photo above, I see that his scare light has an A61 controller, which usually means it is not dimmable. This little controller maintains the power dissipation of the light at a near-constant level, so it works at full brightness over a wide voltage range.

Look at this post for plots of current vs. series resistor and for power dissipation vs. voltage for several different LED discs.

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Old 01-11-2013, 09:43 AM   #55
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Geez, Marshall, I'll send you the book... Zep
Is this your wry sense of humor, or is there a secret book that has all the secrets that will save me figuring things out for myself?
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:49 AM   #56
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Is this your wry sense of humor, or is there a secret book that has all the secrets that will save me figuring things out for myself?
Sorry, I haven't had time to write the book, yet...and I don't intend to answer all the questions. I'm going to avoid you know what--girls. You have to handle that on your own. Z

PS--congrats on the use of wry. I looked it up (usage, not the word) and you're only the third person to have used it in the last 30 years.
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