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Old 12-30-2012, 04:12 PM   #15
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Which Dog Bowl, RLS?

Here's the line up. Can you identify your dog's dish?
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:43 PM   #16
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zep, how about one with a sliding window to adjust the light wanted? :-)
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:49 PM   #17
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But doesn't your dog find it difficult to get a drink now ???
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Alumaholic View Post
Hi RLS,
While Zep's is the more elegant solution, I think I am more of a dog-dish technician. Have you a picture (or a link to a picture) of what the dish looked like before you took it away from the dog?
Man did I get the evil eye when I picked up his dish OK, the measurements are 1 5/16" high and 5 1/8" outer diameter. I think the boss gets them from Petsmart. Best to measure before hand as there are several different small pet bowls. The bulb is led.

Bob
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:53 PM   #19
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I like the inspiration to have a "desighnor" scare light, so did a google on stainless steel bowls and came up with all kinds of options to try. If I ever get over this back issue I will be adding a new design to our Safari.

Zep is right though a lot will hinge on where then awning arm is in relation to the light. Might even be worth exploring adding another some where down the side more evening camp lighting, and/or out back for some rear hatch lighting... Thanks Zep for bringing this up! Happy Holidays all...!!

Barry & Karen in Mich.
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:14 PM   #20
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... Might even be worth exploring adding another some where down the side more evening camp lighting, and/or out back for some rear hatch lighting......
I had the same thought until I checked the light patterns tonight. If you modify the over-door light, you get a lot of light along side the Airstream. On the Sovereign, I have good light well past the aft wheel. I think the scare light becomes redundant for sure. I was thinking of making a fixture that you hang on the drip rail of the aft window and find a place to plug it in.

But my real conclusion, after looking at the new over-door light pattern and the new scare light pattern, is that you need a 2-LED fixture above the front window, just to the curb side and a little above the "AIRSTREAM" letters. This would illuminate the hitch, as well as be an invitation light for the party. You can fish the scare light wire up to the eyebrow cabinet (take the cabinet out of the plastic dome, not as big a deal as it looks) and install the light from the inside of the dome outer shell.

Woohoo, a worthy next project. Zep

PS--the new scare light works as expected. Nice pattern on the ground and glare is shielded from the eyes.
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:30 PM   #21
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Zep,
You've really been doing some innovative stuff with these LEDs!!! I'm interested in doing some similar conversions in maybe a couple of years as I've got a lot of other stuff that I need to do first.

I've looked at some of your other similar threads and I plan to re-read all of it. Thanks for sharing the information and sharing the ideas!

Steve
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:48 PM   #22
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Any chance of capturing a picture or two of the field of illumination at night of your re-design?

Thanks,
Barry & Karen in Mi.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:07 AM   #23
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Great job!

I love it !

Mark-
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:18 PM   #24
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Per post #14 above, the following design is about as small as you're going to get a hooded "scare" light, providing you don't sink some of the fixture into the shell. The fixture is a bit smaller in height than the over-door light, 3" long, and 3.25" wide. It might crunch down a little by making the lens flanges (the strips of metal behind the clear lens) 1/4 instead of 3/8. But it's a lot smaller than that scoop in post #1.

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I started off with what I call the socket tray. The back is leaned back 30 and the tabs are then bent inwards 30. The nice feature of this kind of support fixture is that one or the other tab can remain straight if you want illumination directly below the light, for instance if you put this above the front window to illuminate the tongue and also area forward of the door. In that case the left tab would remain flat and the right tab would be bent.

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The flat skin needed to make the hood looks something like this, but in the end (as I folded and fit it), the original skin was also cut along the blue lines. I used a 2/x4 (again) to get the starting shape with the large radius bends.

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The final fixture has good illumination to the right and left, but a bit more restricted in the "out" or "up" (away from the Airstream) direction. The socket tray can be slid back 3/8" or forward 1/4" to change the light cone. If this was mounted up as high as the over-door light (and consequently angled back significantly), I think you'd want a longer hood along the top edge in order to shield the lights. Down at the scare light level this shape is probably fine.

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I think my final objective is to replace the scare light with something like this that is half-submerged in the existing scare light hole, plus one that is surface mounted over the curb side of the front window, both of them on the same switch.

This fixture would also be suitable to hang, when parked, on a window or awning and plugged into a socket near or on the scare light. I think you could brightly illuminate the whole area under an awning plus the tongue for 1.6 amps.

Zep
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:12 AM   #25
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Being a 60s cynical ex-hippy now working for the establishment, how about a strobe?
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:35 AM   #26
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Being a 60s cynical ex-hippy now working for the establishment, how about a strobe?
Go all-out and make it a lava lamp. Do those come in LED?
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:03 PM   #27
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Being a 60s cynical ex-hippy now working for the establishment, how about a strobe?
A strobe would be easy. An NE-555, a capcitor, and a couple resistors. Piece of cake.

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Old 01-07-2013, 10:17 AM   #28
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There was a recent post somewhere about a LED unit that is the same dimensions of the scare light, but I can't find it. Sound like you could still use the existing scare light frame and lens. Does anyone know what I am talking about? Because I obviously don't.
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