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Old 05-19-2017, 07:29 AM   #1
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1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
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Mystery switch

Anyone know what the switch above the door does?Click image for larger version

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Old 05-19-2017, 08:07 AM   #2
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2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
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Possible fridge vent fan or outside scare light.


Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:30 AM   #3
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1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,053
Switch to left of window is for scare light No fridge fan...
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:15 PM   #4

1968 20' Globetrotter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 356
1968 “Switch by the Door” vs Cabin Rotary Switch Mystery

I don't know all the models and years that this occurs in, Maybe only '68GTs? It may bother no one but me...

What sense is it to have redundant ON-OFFs? The switches are not wired three-way, and within an arm's reach of each other without taking a step?? The switch by the door does nothing unless the center cabin light is already switched to one of its three ON positions. Can anyone find logic in this? There's no reality where wiring through two switches for one light makes sense. It is an unnecessary annoyance.

What to do, other than removing the switch, and connecting the wiring behind it to always be ON, and having a cover plate there, so the cabin light operates normally with its rotary switch?? Could put tape over it and mark do not touch?? It's frustrating to dial the cabin light ON, only to find that the door switch is in OFF position, then turn door switch to ON, then dial cabin light to desired intensity of one bulb, two bulb, four bulb or OFF.

If the switch by door is there for night entry, It only works if you remember to turn the cabin light ON and the door switch to OFF when leaving. You think this is confusing and annoying to read? Try it in real life with both hands in the dark. It's really stupid, and further exacerbated by the horizontally door mounted switch, so you cannot intuitively switch Up-ON, Down-OFF.

This was driving me nuts. I thought maybe the switch was there for the optional front vent fan motor that my trailer didn't have, but that option, the fan switchis located next to the fan, same as the aft vent fan. No, it's not for the scare light, or wired to the kitchen light, no step light option.

Here's what I did to ease my sanity about this irritating nonsense…

The original equipment:
The rotary switch, centered in the cabin light, offering four positions,
1-One bulb
2-Some bulbs
3-All bulbs
The single throw single pole household residential on-off wall switch by the door mounted horizontally, Grrrrr

Their replacements:
Two, $5 ON-OFF pull-chain switches from the hardware store.
One switchplate cover, drilled for pull-chain switch
One Rubber Ducky

I replaced the “switch by the door” with a pull-chain switch, and “DUCK!” reminder.

I wired the ”DUCK!” switch so that it controlled only one of the four lamps in the cabin light. The remaining three warm 1141LEDs* are simultaneously controlled by a single pull-chain switch which replaced the original rotary multi-position switch. Now, the cabin light switch operates independently from the “DUCK!” door switch. The “DUCK!” switch is perfect for night entry, or provides “mood” lighting. The “DUCK!” switch can, of course, be ON along with cabin light to provide all four bulb illumination.

This is an inexpensive, practical, Calming solution…

No Cost Alternative,
For the all original look, you can keep the residential style “switch by the door” as is, if you can tolerate its horizontal orientation, as all the wiring is right behind the cabin light, and easily rewired as explained. You can also rewire to keep the original rotary switch.

At 6ft, I need to duck, hence the reminder. Entering the trailer at night, I can pull the chain before stepping inside…. Mellow...

About those original rotary light switches, you don't need to buy new ones. If you pry the tabs back, you can access the innards, and clean the contacts. The VTS “replacement” switches that I purchased do work, but they're a little too long and will not accept the original rotary knobs. I changed all the overhead rotary switches to single pull chains, it's easier for me to reach up and pull the chain ON-OFF than to rotate the switch.

*You can buy a ten-pack of these from eBay for $8, shipped in a week, or pay Airstream $$$ retail for the same repackaged bulb
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