My LED Lamp Projects...

[Keyair]

This is on my 1984 345 Motorhome, but I think msny of the lamps and fitting are similar, so thought it might be of interest.

Started with the Tail Lamp Assembly..



Original Bulb...


Wanted to see if 102 SMD 1157 Bulbs will fit in the Tail Lamp cans.

New taller LED fits GREAT!
Wish I had bought the even taller 120smd style now.


Took the Lens home for some R & R..



Scrubbed, cleaned and Buffed...

[Keyair]

Decided it was Time to pull off the tail lamp cans and do a little 'Improvement".


Before with the stock galvanized can, and Incandecent bulb...


With the 102 SMD LED...
There are 120 SMD bulbs available too, but they are taller..
I think there is space!


Now... the Mad Scientist is back....
Prepped can, and sealed with Bulldog Primer..


Metal Primered..


Chrome Painted!


Does that make the can better?
You decide...


Both done...

[Keyair]

I am not a Photographer, but tried to get some shots and measurements of the Modifications/LED upgrade I did...

Since the Camera adjusts its F-Stop and Shutter speeds for the available light, the picture LOOK similar, yet read the F-Stop and Shutter speeds for the real comparison!

I found this intersting, so thought I would post my findings..

In each set, there are 3 pictures:
Set 1, is with lower power Tail lamp element lit, I think the incandecent bulb is rated at 5W.

A/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with a new incandecent stock Bulb.
F2.8 and 1/125sec.


B/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with the 102 x SMD White LED.
F3.2 and 1/125sec.


C/ Chrome painted Can with LED 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/125



Set 2, is with the Brake Lamp element lit, I think it is 21W.

A/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with a new incandecent stock Bulb.
F4.0 and 1/160sec.


B/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with the 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/250sec.


C/ Chrome painted Can with LED 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/320sec.


Those of you that fully understand this... GOOD!
Those of you that are like me, and dont really...
I think...
More light= higher F-Stop number, wich is maximum of 4.0.
Once F4.0 is reached, the shutter speed increases to optimize light input..

The increase in light output from Incandecent bulb to LED is obvious to the eye, but the camera setting masks that in the pictures!
The increase in shutter speed by about 30% proves it.
Painting the can was also a great improvement with the shutter speed increasing about with the same bulb by another 30%.

Only thing left to do is to put them back on and take some shots from the rear with the stock lamps on the other side to see how much they look better!

[Mexray]

Have you tried RED LED units instead of the WHITE units?

I believe the light output will be greater if you use the RED LEDs behind red tail lights lenses...

I used front truck turn signal units to replace the tail/stop lights in our 78 Ambassador... http://www.airforums.com/forums/f173...-as-42187.html

[perryg114]

You should be able to fix the shutter and F-stop unless you have an el cheapo digital camera. You would go to the M setting.

Perry

Originally Posted by Keyair

I am not a Photographer, but tried to get some shots and measurements of the Modifications/LED upgrade I did...

Since the Camera adjusts its F-Stop and Shutter speeds for the available light, the picture LOOK similar, yet read the F-Stop and Shutter speeds for the real comparison!

I found this intersting, so thought I would post my findings..

In each set, there are 3 pictures:
Set 1, is with lower power Tail lamp element lit, I think the incandecent bulb is rated at 5W.

A/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with a new incandecent stock Bulb.
F2.8 and 1/125sec.


B/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with the 102 x SMD White LED.
F3.2 and 1/125sec.


C/ Chrome painted Can with LED 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/125



Set 2, is with the Brake Lamp element lit, I think it is 21W.

A/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with a new incandecent stock Bulb.
F4.0 and 1/160sec.


B/ Stock unpainted can and lens, with the 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/250sec.


C/ Chrome painted Can with LED 102 x SMD White LED.
F4.0 and 1/320sec.


Those of you that fully understand this... GOOD!
Those of you that are like me, and dont really...
I think...
More light= higher F-Stop number, wich is maximum of 4.0.
Once F4.0 is reached, the shutter speed increases to optimize light input..

The increase in light output from Incandecent bulb to LED is obvious to the eye, but the camera setting masks that in the pictures!
The increase in shutter speed by about 30% proves it.
Painting the can was also a great improvement with the shutter speed increasing about with the same bulb by another 30%.

Only thing left to do is to put them back on and take some shots from the rear with the stock lamps on the other side to see how much they look better!

[StreamRollin]

I did the same with red leds on either side on my tail lights and white leds on the back up lights. Have not tryed them yet, because have to mush snow on that side of my house to back TV up to plug in. But can't wait to see the differents.

[Keyair]

My Camera does have a manual setting, but I felt I wanted to see what the numbers were as that was a measurement I could document.

[perryg114]

Well each F-stop is roughly twice as much light.

Perry

[Keyair]

Yep, so does that mean Twice as bright?

[casa3805]

Good work Key Air! I replaced the housings and all with LED's, but I like what you did by cleaning them up and re-painting ! That is what I did with my License plate light (Avatar) but now I need to get the LED bulb for it..

[walter1]

Great job of doing, documenting and sharing. Thanks for posting.

One tail light tip I learned while restoring the old galvanized tail light housings on my restored '66 Volvo 122S:

I cleaned and repainted housings with "galvanizing spray" intended for metal fence posts from ACE hardware, then used glue stick to glue old Dirritos bag inside out (aluminized Mylar) to housing....much more reflective than chrome paint.

Another trick:
I had some Volvo and Airstream small parts powder coated in 80% gloss "chrome" paint and they look just like polished aluminum.

Where did you get the LED "bulbs"?

[Keyair]

Thanks for the tips.
I have had experience in putting reflective film on this type of thing, and it works good, but what a PITA to do...
The powdercoating was in my plan, but the bulb holders are crimped in, and cannot be removed... masking them was an option, but then the oven curing could be an issue..

As the back of the can is flat, I think I will also try putting a piece of mirrored Plastic on the back of it...


Bulbs all came from Ebay...
I am out of work, so this is an "Economy" project, so I watch for deals..

[perryg114]

Yes Exactly. 1 f-stop is 2x and 2 f-stops is 4x etc.

the f-stops are in these increments

1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22

F-number - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Perry

Originally Posted by Keyair

Yep, so does that mean Twice as bright?

[Keyair]

Cool!
Sounds like I did make an improvement!

The Camera I used is a Canon Powershot Pro...
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerSho.../dp/B000Q3043Y

[perryg114]

The best situation would be to have a flat LED array with all the LED's facing the lens. With that bulb LED you would need a really good focusing mechanism to capture and focus all the light. It would be best to mount the LED flat array as far away from the lens as you can get it to have more even lighting. Also getting rid of the socket will help with reliability. Many times, corrosion is the cause problems with tail lights. You can direct wire those LED arrays so there are not contacts or sockets to corrode.

LED Chips : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

Boat, RV and Other LED Bulbs - Super Bright LEDs


Perry

[Keyair]

Super bright White 12LED bulbs..
They were on sale, so I paid $7.96 with free shipping for 4 sets of 2, so 8 bulbs.




Put them in the Mapreading lights and under cabinet lights..
They fitted perfectly, and work GREAT.. pretty tight pool of focused light about 2' diameter on the drivers seat..