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Old 10-24-2009, 06:33 AM   #15
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I'm going with these LED Puck from Vintage Trailer Supplies
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:27 AM   #16
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Sensibulb

Here's a commercially made bulb called a Sensibulb (about $40)

Manufacturer of Innovative Marine Electronics | Technologies LLC

It fits beautifully in standard fixtures.
It includes a first-rate current controller driver.
BUT it's not very bright for the money.

The first picture shows bulb off (Zoom is set so whole diffuser will fit in picture)

Second shows 1/1600 sec. F8 ISO80 of lite bulb
Third shows 1/150 sec. F8 ISO 80 of lite bulb with diffuser.
Fourth is a close up of bulb.
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:36 AM   #17
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A bulb to avoid

Here's a bad choice which shows up if you search for LEDs
It has 36 LEDs arranged in a 6x6 square array.
There is no voltage regulator only resistors.

I used these things wired in parallel.
They were my first trial of LED lighting.

As you can see, some of the LEDs in this double unit have already burned out. If you want to use these you will need a voltage regular!!
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:11 PM   #18
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The last thing I wanted to mention was the "Cadillac" of current regulators.
These supplies can take a very wide range of DC voltages and transform them into precisely the right voltage and current for high-power leds.

LED Drivers - Constant Current Drivers - LuxDrive - LED Supply.com

I used the buck puck
3021-D-I-700 BuckPuck - LED Supply.com

along with an external potentiometer allowing a range of currents from 0 to 700 mA.

I hope all this information is useful. Contact me if you need more details.

JohnOButtons
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:38 PM   #19
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john, this is a great thread!

i know a little about these things so i'm dangerous, lol.

i noticed you're using an 1156 lamp, i think the fixtures are in my unit are rated for 1141 lamps. i actually had some Dorcy brand 1141's melt some holes in diffusers. they now add more light from the fixture under the microwave and now they're vented too!

were the 1156 stock in your fixtures?

can you put bypass switches on the resistors to give a low/med/high output?
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:44 PM   #20
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Ricky,
I'm glad you enjoyed the thread. Does a little more knowledge make you a little more dangerous :-) ?


I bought my 1995 Sovereign in 1998 and never considered the possibility that the 1156 bulbs in all the lights might not be stock. The main difference that pops up for the 1141 vs. the 1156 is that the 1141 uses1.44A where the 1156 uses 2.1A. So the 1156 should be brighter and hotter.

It's easy to get low/med/high out of LEDs. My recommendation would be to use either the voltage regulator or the current regulator circuit shown above rather than just resistors. The current regulator works well for a 12V battery and 3 LED's in series. The voltage regulator will work for a 12V battery and 3 or maybe 4 LED's in series. The LM2941T IC costs less than a dollar. It doesn't take much room and will protect the LEDs from high charging voltages. If you use just resistors, your LEDs will vary quite a bit in brightness, being either too bright (and maybe burning out) during charging) or unnecessarily dimmer when the battery is low.
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:42 AM   #21
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i think i'm going to have a new pass time :-) thanks for the tips!
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:49 AM   #22
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Dimmer for Multiple LED Buckpucks

I've seen requests for this kind of circuit on a couple of non-Airstream forums. It's one way to dim a bunch of high power LED's using one central control. I used it to make a bright main light fixture for our Airstream.

I took three endor stars and three buck pucks (see previous posts) and bought a 5K linear taper potentiometer at radio shack.

An LM350 voltage regulator was used to provide the control voltage for the three bulk pucks. This circuit could be used for any number of buck pucks connected in parallel.

In this diagram, black is ground or common, red is the 12 volt power,
and green is the control voltage.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:43 PM   #23
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thanks for the diagram. i've saved it. i'm sure it will come in handy!
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