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Old 10-04-2011, 09:33 AM   #15
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Things I know now.... Batt has 12.4 volts... all fuses look ok including the small glass fuse in the converter( original univolt) and it's ok. I am plugged into 110v at house but the uni-volt isn't humming... I did find one end of the broken black wire ,it was about 3" from where the wire was broke at the hole. I tested hoping it had voltage but it didn't so I suppose power comes up stream from there..(?) I can see down through the slot that the rear hatch lock goes , and can see that wire contining horizontally along the "C" channel towards the 12v fuse panel but I can't see where it goes totally. I haven't tested the breakers but if fuses are ok , breakers should be fine right?

Still no 12v power to interior either.

As far as the embilical cord I am not sure what I am testing or looking for.
Before this wire got broken off , everything in the trailer worked, also the TV to TT hook up worked with all lights, turns , brakes working...
Guys I am at a loss as to what to try...

Being that the wire was broken at the back of the trailer maybe I should pullthe taillight housings and license plate housing off looking for a possible broken wire?

Help!

Barry
Never, ever, trust the "LOOKS" of a fuse.

All to many times the fuse is "blown" yet looks perfect.

Test them with an "ohm meter" or apply a voltage an test them with a volt meter.

Andy
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:21 AM   #16
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you've got 3 areas of concern.

1) the 120v to the converter.

2) the 12v system that runs from the tow veh. to the brake and marker lights. the converter does not power these lights.

3) the 12v power from the converter to the interior lights.

since the tow veh. is no longer lighting the trailer lights, first check the vehicle fuses.

you need a meter or a test light. looking at fuses can give you a false 'good'.

is there 120v to the converter?

i think there is a fuse on both the positive and negative on the 12v side of the converter.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:03 AM   #17
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you've got 3 areas of concern.

1) the 120v to the converter.
Yes there is 120v going in.

2) the 12v system that runs from the tow veh. to the brake and marker lights. the converter does not power these lights.
Brilliant!!!

3) the 12v power from the converter to the interior lights.
Don't know yet about lights , but there is 12.2volts coming out of converter, also on the second bolt on the converter that says load there is 12.7 v

since the tow veh. is no longer lighting the trailer lights, first check the vehicle fuses.

you need a meter or a test light. looking at fuses can give you a false 'good'. That is the answer!!!!!!! I checked the running light -no v. , looked at the fuse , it was blown. It was a 15 amp fuse, book says 20 amp, which I had, put in checked got voltage, plugged the TV/TT together NICE LIGHTS!!! Thanks!

is there 120v to the converter? Yes there is but nothing to interior works...

i think there is a fuse on both the positive and negative on the 12v side of the converter.
There is a 6 amp fuse which was ok, there is also a 35 fuse, which should be fine if the 6 amp fuse isn't toast right? Now what ? I suppose check breakers in 110 box, but how, just for continuity?
Thanks so much for what is now working, still need the interior working, and still need to figure out what is the original wire, where to and where from etc...?

Feeling a little better ,
Barry
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:34 PM   #18
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Barry

The 110 v circuit breakers and the univolt should have nothing to do with your lack of interior lights (unless your battery is dead) because the interior lights, vent fans and the furnace fan all operate on the 12v dc circuit. I would look for a blown fuse. I have attached the wiring diagrams from my 66 Tradwind Owners Maual. It also has wiring diagrams for the other lengths and models for the 66 year including your 22ft Overlander. Pm me if you would like me to take any additional photos.

I find the 12 volt wiring diagram very confusing (fig 11-B) and I am an engineer. Maybe some of the electrical experts can chime in to help decifer it for both of us.

The black wire that you ran into with your drill may be the wire that was run for the back up lights. I believe they were an option that year so Airstream may have run the wiring, but it is only needed if the back up lights are installed.

I hope this helps some.

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Old 10-04-2011, 02:54 PM   #19
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barry,

if you can get to the wires that got damaged you'll need to tape them up or run fresh wires somewhere.

if i recall....... that year trailer had glass screw in fuses. were those updated with circuit breakers?

never assume any electrical part is ok because they will bite you.

how do you know the converter has 120v?

get a meter or 120v test light to check the converter feed and an inside outlet.

i suspect you caught more that just the black wire and tripped something in the 12v system.

btw, if something grabs your drill bit, next time reverse the drill or back it out by hand. i know, it would help if the wires yelled out or something ;-)
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:04 PM   #20
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Is the black wire you caught in the drill a solid or stranded wire? If it is stranded it is probably a DC wire; if it is solid it is probably an AC wire. If you Univolt isn't humming, something is not right, they normally hum pretty loud.
I would disconnect the battery, power up the Univolt and see if there is voltage on the DC side.
Is the location where you drilled the hole in a place where you could cut a larger hole (carefully) locate the wires, make the repairs and then put a nice looking patch or cover over it?
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:53 PM   #21
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TG TWINKIE

I suspect the 12v wiring operating the exterior lights from the TV is stranded copper, but the 12v wiring for the interior lights, vent fans and the furnace in my 66 TW is solid aluminum wire.

Dan
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:50 PM   #22
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I had to go find some new glass fuses and will swap them out tomorow. On my 12v 'board' there are also 3 breakers below the 3 glass fuses. Is there a way to test them to see if they are good?

I will test the Univolt tomorrow, but yes it does make a very slight humming noise. The wire that got pulled is a 18-20 ga. stranded black wire. I will also verify that I do have 120v at the plugs inside.

Thanks guys for staying with me on this... I am lost when it comes to this stuff and it means a lot to have you all blindly trying to walk me through a possible solution...

As I said I found the one end of the broken wire about 2" from where it broke... and looking at the 5 foot of wire that came out, I wonder if maybe the other end is at the light in the bathroom which is about that length of wire away. I will look at that tomorrow..

The problem is , I have no 12v power to any fixture/ switch / fan.. etc.. No 12v anywhere , but 120 side of everything is working. It seems like an open line, or a possible blown fuse...

Thanks again,
Barry
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:43 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
I had to go find some new glass fuses and will swap them out tomorow. On my 12v 'board' there are also 3 breakers below the 3 glass fuses. Is there a way to test them to see if they are good?

I will test the Univolt tomorrow, but yes it does make a very slight humming noise. The wire that got pulled is a 18-20 ga. stranded black wire. I will also verify that I do have 120v at the plugs inside.

Thanks guys for staying with me on this... I am lost when it comes to this stuff and it means a lot to have you all blindly trying to walk me through a possible solution...

As I said I found the one end of the broken wire about 2" from where it broke... and looking at the 5 foot of wire that came out, I wonder if maybe the other end is at the light in the bathroom which is about that length of wire away. I will look at that tomorrow..

The problem is , I have no 12v power to any fixture/ switch / fan.. etc.. No 12v anywhere , but 120 side of everything is working. It seems like an open line, or a possible blown fuse...

Thanks again,
Barry
Check the 40 amp fuses.

There should be 2 of them, on the upper right side of the rear access door.

You should see them when you remove that rear door.

Andy
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:01 AM   #24
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All right here is the latest facts...

All fuses and breakers have continuity

With battery disconnected and univolt plugged in:

Power into Univolt 120v.
Power at ac plugs 118v.
load/dcv 12.6v
batt./dcv -0-
through fuse #3 on board 12.6v. (fuse with red wire from Univolt)

Everything electrical is working EXCEPT 2 gaucho lights and the porch light.
**************************************

With battery cont. and Univolt plugged in:

battery 12v
battery @ batt. post of Univolt 12v ( still 12.6v @ load side of Univolt)
through fuse #1 on board 12v. (fuse with red wire from batt.)

Everything works...including 2 gaucho lights and porch light

****************************************

Battery only -with univolt unplugged:

battery 12v
battery @ batt. side of univolt 12v.
load side of univolt -0-
through fuse #1 on board 12v. (fuse with red wire from batt.)

Only thing working .... 2 gaucho lights porch light and water pump
*************************************************

Some thoughts.... I took the fuse panel apart a few days ago to clean all connectors and breakers and am 99.99% sure I put each wire back, could I possible have connected them wrong? I did test each breaker and all have continuity. There is a jump plate that connects two breakers together , could I maybe put it in the wrong place...
It goes from fuse from Univolt 12v to the middle fuse ( which I don't have a clue what it is.

I test all breakers while still wired across both screws for continuity is the the correct way? Being these are 45 year old breaker should I just go ahead and replace them, and are they just common automotive fuses?

I also find it odd that there are three fixtures ( water pump- porch light and gaucho) that work on 12v only.



Someone mentioned that the infamous black wire is just a drop wire in case someone optioned to have back up lights so maybe this is just a co-incidence to other electrical issues...
Guys any ideas /helps???
Thanks,
Barry
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:34 AM   #25
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Hmm... so if I can infer from your info..
1) There's also been some breaker work before the drill incident.
2) The Univolt connected and plugged in to 120 everything 12v works.
3) You didn't notice that the 12 v system worked wonky before the drill, but was the univolt disconnected before the drill incident?
4) While plugged into 120 volt, the battery is not getting a charge, but all 12v lights work.

It sounds like the drill might be a red herring.

I'm betting that something got mis wired from the breaker rebuild. Here's a thought. Can you test (while Univolt connected to 120 v) what the voltage is at the goucho lights and perhaps at the bathroom light? I think you'll find it's 12.6 volts everywhere BUT the gaucho and water pump.

If so, you have the charging circuit to the battery wired to a "general" house circuit, and not the battery.

Also, I'm thinking this might be an excellent time to upgrade away from that Univolt. I'm not sure the Univolt is working correctly anyway... (see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...olt-32769.html ) It should be about 14 volt to charge the battery.

If you don't notice a change across the 12v circuit, then I think you might just have a toasted Univolt, which you just discovered.

Can you post pics of the wiring at the 12 v panel? When you did the breaker work, was this on the 120 v side or both the 12v and the 120 v? If it was the 120 only, then I don't think the panel work is the issue.
Good luck!
Marc
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:19 PM   #26
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Thanks Marc ...we are gone for the afternoon, but I will post a pic this afternoon if I can figure out how.. As far as the volts across the batt. with Univolt plugged in (it does make a vary small humm) for sure it is 12 v.

As a side note when we first got our Safari (1966) about 2 months ago, the wife and grandkids slept in it in the driveway, a "girls night out. About 1 am the wife woke me up in the house and said she was coming in "that Damn humm is keeping me awake." It is not loud like that now so it may be one of a bunch of electrical issues going on. BTW everything worked then, 12 DC and AC.
Barry
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:27 PM   #27
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I'm pretty unclear on all I've read, but as a general rule, the other end of that black wire was attached to something. It may have been in a harness further down the wire or attached to a junction block and when you pulled it, something else may have disconnected or shorted. And anything that happened may have been the last straw for the Univolt. The wiring diagram may tell you something, but most diagrams I've tried to read are nearly incomprehensible. Some may tell you where there is a harness because the wires will run together, but you can't count on that. If the black wire was a spare for back up lights and was never hot, it may well have been tied together in a harness or connected to a junction block and pulled something else that is giving you problems.

Did you test power at each side of the breakers and fuses? The breakers are mounted on a buss bar and that has to be hot. The wire to each one should be hot if the breaker is on and you can test that too. You've probably done this.

I'm sure you don't want to do this, but removing an inner panel may save time as then you can see what is going on. Of course, one panel leads to another which leads to another…. Think about replacing anything you expose as this is a good time to update things—wires, converter, breakers, etc. If you remove the panel inside opposite the hole, it will be easier to finish the original job of putting in a new water hook up.

Your batteries, if fully charged, should be about 13.4 to 13.6 v. You can charge them with another charger and disconnect them to check their charge and whether they hold a charge. The Univolt probably charges to 14 or 15 v. which is too high for modern batteries. Getting a new converter (Iota has been recommended to me) with a three stage charger would be a good thing to do now and will protect your batteries.

A vintage trailer is bound to have electrical problems at some point, so any upgrades you can do save you problems later on.

Gene
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:39 PM   #28
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You need to verify the 40 amp fuse from the battery + and the charge line is good you will have to pull it from the fuse holder to test.

From your test write up this fuse is bad.
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