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Old 10-01-2009, 02:48 PM   #1
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Question Left Turn Signal Problem

Hello all... I am trying to close out this issue with my lights and then we can hit the road tomorrow.

Here is my situation.

My tow vehicle is a 2005 Nissan Armada with a factory installed tow package and my camper is a 1965 Airstream Safari. I connect the trailer to the car and all my camper's lights work except for the left turn signal.

To trouble shoot. I connected the plug's brown wire to the camper's red wire. Now when I turn the vehicle's right turn signal on the camper's left turn signal works. To me, that means that the wiring and bulbs on the camper work. I then put the wires back... plug's brown wire to camper's brown wire, plug's red wire to camper's red wire. Back were I started... Turn vehicle's right turn signal, camper's right turn signal works; turn vehicle's left turn signal, camper's left turn signal does not work.

What do I try next? Can it be a fuse? Do I need to clean the connection between the vehicle and the camper? If so, how do I do that?

Thank you.


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Old 10-01-2009, 02:55 PM   #2
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Left Turn Signal Problem

Greetings rslaymaker!

One caveat with Vintage Airstreams is that the umbilical wiring colors do not necessarily correspond to today's standard. You can find the diagram utilized in 1965 at this link. Another place to check is the junction box where the umbilical cable joins the coach's wiring. I believe that 1965 is similar to 1964 - - the junction box is behind a rectangular panel in the bellypan in the front curbside corner about 2' from the side of the coach and a little more than 2' from the front of the coach.

Good luck in locating your wiring gremlin!

Kevin
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:36 PM   #3
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Thanks

Kevin,

Actually, I have an entire portion of the belly pan down to see the wires. Unless I am off, I think the camper's wires are checked out. Basically, I reversed the wires and the vehicles RT signal then made the camper's LT signal work. It seems I have a problem with the connection on the vehicle or maybe a fuse on the vehicle? Not sure. If this rules out the camper, I will reattached the belly and focus on what is wrong with the vehicle. Make sense?
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:01 PM   #4
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I know that your truck is different that my brothers ford explorer sport track... BUT the problem sounds the same! The truck lights work fine but there is a separate fuse for the "trailer harness" we messed around for two days and completely re wired a boat trailer just to find out that there is a different fuse for the trailer lights. Man were we mad! Read the book for the truck or run it to the dealer. I would lay $$ on it being the truck.
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #5
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I echo mem' suggestion. I had almost the identical problem and almost tore the trailer apart attempting to fix it. It finally occurred to me to check the TV fuses under the hood. There is was, a blown fuse.
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:10 PM   #6
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If you did the wire change at the trailer plug you have checked out the cord and the trailer wiring.

If you have a volt meter open the receptacle on the TV and while the left turn signal is on test for voltage on the pin that is at 9 o clock. If your trailer checked out the problem is forward of that.

If you do not see voltage on this pin open up the receptacle and check the wire connection on that pin. If the connection is good you may have a broken wire in the TV. Does the left rear light on the TV work? If so you need to check the harness between between the brake out point for the left light and the tow package receptacle.

It is not a fuse. The fuse that feeds the turn signals is common to both sides
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Old 10-01-2009, 06:54 PM   #7
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I did not have the time to study the above but just time to skim.Problems like this drive me friggin nuts. My gut tells me, as Overlander 64 suggests the TV wiring does not match the trailer. (that could also blow your fuse) Have you tried to locate the trailer lead that goes to the turn signal in question use a jumper wire from your battery or another 12v source? If the uncooperative light then lights you probably have a TV /trailer 7 way mismatch.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
It is not a fuse. The fuse that feeds the turn signals is common to both sides
You sure Howie? On my Excursion, each trailer wiring harness turn signal/stop light, the running lights, the back-up lights, +12 volts for the battery, and the brake controller are all fused separately. Fuses are under the hood. I had one blown left turn signal fuse in the excursion. Everything else worked fine, including the right turn signal/stop light. There is one fuse for the turn signals for the truck, but it seams each line going to the trailer wiring harness has it's own fuse (excpet for ground). Granted, it's a Ford and not a Nissan.

I tried looking up a 2005 Nissan Armada owner's manual online, but they only go back to '06. And fuse postions are not listed in the '06 manual.

Chris
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:34 PM   #9
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Left Turn Signal Problem

When I had this problem with my '64 Overlander this spring, we tried everything . . . then as something of a last resort replaced the umbilical cable from the junction box to the tow vehicle. It was obvious where my problem was when the original umbilical cable was removed . . . all of the insulation had worn of aportion of the cable where it contacted the frame and underbelly . . . as we would move the cable around trying to see if we could find a break the left tail/stop/turn circuit would experience difficulties . . . those wires were down to only about half of original size and were alternately grounding out and blowing the fuse in the Suburban.

As it turned out, that wasn't the only abraded wire . . . the charge wire had also become abraded where it exited the junction box and went back to the rear battery compartment - - - when it would ground out, it was blowing the charge circuit fuse in the Suburban as well as causing the breakaway switch and trailer brakes to pulse.

With the above two issues corrected, I have had generally good performance from the coach's lights. About two weeks after these issues were repaired the hot lead for the electric tongue jack began causing problems and it, too, was connected to an old, abraded wire near the junction box. The lights are now working properly and I haven't had any additional problems this season.

Kevin
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:43 PM   #10
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Fuse Follow-Up

Minno,

Thanks for looking into the fuses... My manual does not mention the fuses under the hood. I could not get a good photo of my fuses, but I created a diagram that I thought you may look at. Any suggestions on these fuses to possibly replace? Not sure I can make out some of these. It looks like another one is there too. But it has mostly relays. Not sure if you can make a suggestion on potential fuse issues, whether I have one or two fuses controlling my turn signals. Thanks again for all your help.

-Robert
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:52 PM   #11
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Fuse 2

Ok, I wanted to provide you with the other fuse box located under the hood.

Thanks everyone for helping me out... What a great group of people!
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:31 AM   #12
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Wow - they don't give you a whole lot of information, do they? I would check any fuse labeled as "Trailer Tow", except the big 30 and 40 amp fuses. One is labeled for the electric brakes and the other one is probably for the 12V for the battery. It does look like Howie was right - I don't see separate fuses for the right hand and left hand trailer tail lights. Sorry for doubting you Howie.

Have you checked the plug on your TV for tail light signals? They would pins 5 and 6. If you have 12v on those with the brakes applied (or blinking 12v with the turn signals), then the TV is good. A simple test light or volt meter is all you need to check that.

Chris
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:01 AM   #13
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Looks like your directionals (DTRL) have a single 10 amp fuse.

Again I ask if both directionals work on the TV and if you apply 12 volts to the 3 and 9 o clock positions of the umbilical do you have trailer signals.

Trailer 12 volts will be on the 1 o clock position as you look at the front of the plug. Use a jumper from it to the other 2 locations to check the trailer out
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