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Old 04-24-2007, 09:02 PM   #1
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LED running lights...maybe!

I have contacted three LED manufacturer/suppliers about a retrofit SEALED LED running light to replace the water loving ones we all seem to have on our late models trailers. The first one I contacted (nameless, but the have very very very bright LEDS if you get my drift) after some initial interest told me they didn't have anything close nor were they interested in pursuing it. I sent the other two a brand-new-from-AS running light, waiting to hear back from them. Will let you know if anything pops, I looked inside mine and the light housings are all a fuzzy grey/white ( oh good, another corrosion source) in spite of numerous attempts to keep water out.
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:09 PM   #2
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Led...

Try this company, the 1375A and 1375R are what I have on my 1999 Excella and they fit like the originals.

LED R US - LED SURFACE MOUNTED MARKER LIGHTS
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:29 PM   #3
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leds

Hey Dwight,
thanks for the info, those don't look at all like the Safari lights, they might fit but then I've got the two toned aluminum look that I'm trying to avoid at all costs. Would love to find an exact swap if I can. Thanks,

Jack
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:29 PM   #4
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After 400 hours on my original running light... most of them are burned out or real close to it. I decided on replacing all of my running lights with 15 LED "bulbs". About $60 for the whole trailer and a spare. I should not have to worry about those for quite some time. I bought them from SuperbrightLEDS.com
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:48 PM   #5
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manufacturer....

Say,

Does anyone know who the manufacturer of the LEDs used in the international taillights?

Current model style?
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:37 AM   #6
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I was thinking of replacing these two bulbs in my red and amber 1965 marker lights (#1889's)


with either of these coloured LED "bulbs" that I found here SUPER BRIGHT LEDS home
Do you think this will work?
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:04 PM   #7
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LED's for running lights

Pep boys has the whole assembly for about $13.00 that fits the placements on the coaches. I just redid all of the running lights on the Argosy and didn't spring for the LED assemblies but it was tempting.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:15 PM   #8
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A significant drawback of using l.e.d.s to replace incandescent lamps is their directionality. A tungstoen filament throws light in every direction, an l.e.d. forms a narrow beam, the solid angle of which depends upon the profile of the end. The bulb on the left in your post appears to have a difffuser built in-I would try that. The only way to know is to try one out and see what it looks like.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM
A significant drawback of using l.e.d.s to replace incandescent lamps is their directionality.
This is a very important statement and should be considered. Another is the fact that light fixtures are designed to project light in a given pattern through the combination of bulbe type and location with respect to the reflector in the light.

All exterior lights used on vehicals are approved by DOT in thier original configuration so using a different type bulb could cause problems with them.

The direct LED replacement fixtures offered by several vendors carry DOT certification. The only problem I had with these fixtures is the fact that the base has a smooth flat surface with the wires coming out on center. Airstream did not take efforts to put the hole on the sides of the trailers on center to the mounting holes and thus a little work is required to mount new lights. That said LEDs make a great addition. I have LEDed all exterior lights on my trailer.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:33 PM   #10
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dumb question - probably

is the purpost to changing to LEDs to reduce power consumption. if so has anybody measured the difference?
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:47 PM   #11
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I have been researching the LED issue and have found that the power consumption of LED's is substantially less. For an equal number of lumens light output LED consumes only 20% of an equivelent incandescent light source. There is also the heat factor. LED's produce no heat; virtually all power consumption is used to produce light. Additionally, an LED bulb should last at least 10x longer than and incandescent bulb.

As soon as I can find the right comversion, I will be going LED on Lucy's running lights.
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream 65
I was thinking of replacing these two bulbs in my red and amber 1965 marker lights (#1889's) with either of these coloured LED "bulbs" that I found. Do you think this will work?
Another problem with using these bulbs is that you haven't eliminated the corrosion/contact problem. LEDs soldered onto a sealed PC board won't have those issues.
I'm also waiting to find the right mix of brightness appearance and before I change mine out.
Tom.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:07 PM   #13
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why?

The reason I want to use them is THEY ARE SEALED. As opposed to what I have now.....
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Old 06-24-2007, 03:52 PM   #14
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My interest in LEDs was sparked by my preference for dry camping/boondocking, which requires conservative use of the battery energy generated during the day by the solar panels.
I replaced all of the incandescent running lights, step light, and patio light on my 2007 23' Safari with LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I am thrilled with the results. There is a visual difference with the LEDs being brighter.
The vendor was prompt with delivery. The installation consisted of only switching out the lamps.
I put aluminum foil over the matte reflector surface to increase reflection intensity of the patio and step lights. I moved the small bulb instruction sticker to a less conspicuous site to allow a greater reflection surface. The patio light is no longer excessively bright like an auto headlight (a complaint noted in a previous ASF post) and is cooler to touch.
The following is what I ordered but may not pertain to your AS model. Note that the running light bulbs selected have radially placed LEDs in the lamp (projects light 90 degrees to the side of the lamp as well as directly forward from the top of the lamp).
12 volt bayonet base: (1156 single contact = side locking nubs are directly opposite of each other v.s. 1157 off-set as in a dual contact):
  • Step light
  • T67 10 watt, bayonet base (for 90° view) (Super Bright LED 67 W15, white, 30 degrees)
$7
  • Patio light
  • PH 1156, bayonet base (for 90° view)
(Super Bright LED 1156 W24, white, 100 degrees)
$13
  • Running light
  • 67 4CP , bayonet base (for 90° + view)
4 amber lights (Super Bright LED 67 A15, 30 degrees)
+ 7 red lights (Super Bright LED 67 R15, 30 degrees)
11 x $5 = $55
After washing the trailer, I discovered water seepage into the cover of the license plate light and its light socket. This lamp was overlooked when I ordered my LEDs. Corrosion has started on the cover's internal matte reflection surface with a white mineral deposit in the socket. I hope to resolve the moisture problem using a gasket made from inner tubing and lining the cover with replaceable aluminum foil to increase the reflected illumination.
This 67 lamp (360 degree or 90 degree down only illumination needed) will be replaced with a LED in the future when I replace my internal trailer lamps. I am waiting for the development of a LED lamp that provides an aesthetically warmer illumination since I do not care for the icy white light of the current LED lamps.
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