LED lighting retrofit for interior lights

[Florida 55]

I bought the 9 diode warm LED's from LED4RV.com for the puck lights. We are happy with them. The light is sufficient for us.

If you go with the 12 diode you might consider installing a dimmer switch.

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by Florida 55

I bought the 9 diode warm LED's from LED4RV.com for the puck lights. We are happy with them. The light is sufficient for us.

If you go with the 12 diode you might consider installing a dimmer switch.

I appreciate your input. I have the 12 diode LED's above the dinette and the countertop/sink. Mainly for having plenty of light on work surfaces. I was thinking the 9's would work for the ceiling lights and glad to hear some confirmation before purchasing so many of them.

Thanks!

[Gene]

Hans, it isn't the number of diodes, but the lumens produced that will tell you how bright it is.

We changed to LED's many years ago now, around when this thread started and the OP still lived in Colorado. Just about every bulb was replaced (closet one, courtesy lights and step light were the only ones not done). They all still work fine and cost about 10 times more then. We got them from Superbright as they had the best LED's when there were a lot of bad ones on the market.

I'm wondering whether the Airstream OEM LED's are lasting or where they the cheap kinds?

Gene

[Kemblkr]

These worked great in my 2003




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[Kemblkr]

$17.99 for a 10 pack


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[polarlyse]

I have 2 reading lamps in the sleeping area. They are wall mounts at the head of the bed and have auto type bayonete mounts. Single pin on the twist mount. I have tried several types of LED bulbs and can't seem to get any to work. The original bulbs have a single contact at the bottom as do the LED replacements that fit the mount OK but simply don't work. The lamps have 2 arms with 1 bulb each and the switch allows either single bulb to be on as well as both together. I have changed everything else to LED's and they all seem to work great.

Still working on this when I think about it.

ThanX all

[rmkrum]

Check that the +12 volts is where the LED wants it. Compare with a voltmeter.

If not, they won't light up at all. Probably needs to be + 12 on the single pin, ground on the big hollow part of the socket.

Regular bulbs don't care. Could easily be wired bassackwards.


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[Gene]

My LED's (almost all lights have been changed) are about 7 1/2 years old, all still work fine, and they cost a lot more then than they do now.

Gene

[ReggieDaniel]

Originally Posted by bhayden

Glad to see this thread is still alive since I'm about ready to start in on reviving my Argosy. The Lightinbox.com domain is a French website that looks to be a content creator. I'm guessing it was supposed to point to Lightingbox.com from Canada.

Pictures pictures pictures !

My error, I told you the wrong site, it's "lightinginthebox.com". I left out a word.

[ReggieDaniel]

Originally Posted by bhayden

Glad to see this thread is still alive since I'm about ready to start in on reviving my Argosy. The Lightinbox.com domain is a French website that looks to be a content creator. I'm guessing it was supposed to point to Lightingbox.com from Canada.

Pictures pictures pictures !

If I do this enough, I may get it right, dang it!
"lightinthebox.com" is correct because I went back and checked twice this time.
Light-in-the-box...say it to myself 100 times.

[Msmoto]

Yes, it is good to see folks are still into going the LED route.

Somewhere i think I may have posted that most of the LEDs I have used on trailers and a moho, are rated at 15v. This because often we will have 14.8v feeding them, but LEDs do not like to be over driven, at lest not in the early days. Thus the "safety" margin.

Also nice that the price is about 1/4 of what it was in the days I spent over $1,000 converting a moho....

[mschneid]

Great read.

[TBRich]

Originally Posted by 5cats

So I'm finally getting around to doing some LED experiments on my SE -- but how do the CCD-style halogen ceiling fixtures open up to get the the G4 lamp?

I'm baffled. They seem springy, but I didn't want to pull too hard. I can only get them to pull away from the surface about 1/2" -- and I can't figure out how to access the bulb.

A little help??

thanks,
-jd.

We replaced all the halogen bulbs in our rig with LEDs... I am pretty sure we have the same fixtures as you have ... On ours, we do not have to remove the light fixture to change out the bulbs...the innermost silver ring around the lens pops off... First, turn the lights off and let the lenses cool ... the halogens put a LOT of heat out. Once cooled, use a sharp knife to get under the outer edge of that ring, being careful not to scratch anything or let the knife slip. As you pry it up, be careful not to drop the lens which sits inside that ring.

Good luck! You will be amazed at how much less of a draw the LEDs make on your batteries...

[TampaTim]

Hey guys, new poster longtime reader. Like a lot of people with time on our hands now ,I'm trying to update my lights in my 2008 to LEDs. I have finished the ceiling pucks and now trying to update the reading lights over the dinette. I purchased some dimmable leds
fixtures including bulbs designed for Marine apps. They arrived and I'm very pleased with quality and finish. I'm trying to install them, i dropped the original fixtures they have a White and Brown wires and my replacements have traditional red and black going into them . I know there can be polarity issues so I'm at a loss , Help..

[TampaTim]

I'm trying to replace my Reading Lamps over my Dinette. I received the new fixtures which have red and black wires as opposed to current white and brown wires in the original. I realize there are polarity issues involved . Help...

[Dan@LED4RV]

Originally Posted by TampaTim

I'm trying to replace my Reading Lamps over my Dinette. I received the new fixtures which have red and black wires as opposed to current white and brown wires in the original. I realize there are polarity issues involved . Help...

If you hook them up wrong it will not hurt your new lights, they just won't work, if they are polarity dependent. Being that they are 12 volts, and will not shock you, you should be able to see which wire needs to go where. Lots of the lights on the market do not subscribe to a wiring color code. Or to a US wiring color code even though they might be designed for the US market. The white and black are most likely the grounds.

[Gene]

We've come a long way since Westfalia started this thread in 2005. I replaced the lights in 2008 or '9 and LEDs were pretty expensive them, but a big improvement over the halogens.

Now they are the standard and far less money.

[TouringDan]

No posts to this thread in 3 years so I guess not much news on retrofitting leds.

I replaced my incandescent lights about 10 years ago with leds and they have done well. Well some of the LEDs in the smd pad have burned out (probably 1/4 to 1/3) so I replaced the smd pads. It looks much better now.
I bought some nice 40” corner lights about 3 years ago and they are just way too bright. The amount of light undimmed is 3,000 lumens. They came with remote dimmer switches but I didn’t like them as one dimmer would dim both lights. I like simple. I found some dimmer switches for less than $4.00 each and they work great.

Dan