I used the SuperBriteLeds ALM-x6 to replace the over door light (thank you, AEROWOOD). It works really well, just one module puts out enough light. The only issue is, if you put it up too high in the cover, the angles don't work and no light gets directly on the step, but the area in front of the step is adequately illuminated. Note that you nee to install a plate inside the cover in order to mount the module and the terminal block (the module leads are fine wires that you need to terminate). This module draws only 0.021 amps!
I'm testing the G4-CWHP10-D, a G4 replacement (many of you have previously commented on this module). Once again proving my ineptness, I ordered the cool white instead of the warm. However, if the warm module is similar, it is amazing. I can see no reduction in light output down to approximately 10.5 volts. The module still puts out enough light at 7 volts to be a good night light. It seems to be continuously dimable across this voltage range. At max brightness it draws 0.195 amps. At 7 volts it draws about 0.010 amps. This is in contrast to the original automotive bulbs in the 70s vent lights that draw 1.35 amps each.
This sucker is bright. I used a yellow and a light orange photo filter to see if I could "warm" it up some, and both filters worked well for this purpose. (Boy, do I hate that cool blue color!) In the photo, the module is installed in one of those small under-counter G4 fixtures (side mount socket).
Because of the way I installed the over door light, I think a bit of light right on the step is warranted. SuperBrite's ALM-x3 seems like a good choice, but it draws 0.017 amps at 12 volts. That seems like a lot, compared to the mere 0.021 amps for the 6-LED module above the door. And way too much light.
After a bit of experimentation, it looks like the ALM-x3 in series with a 2.2K resistor is about right. It draws only about 1.5 milliamps (0.0015 amps) at 11.5 volts and still puts out plenty of light for the step. At 13 volts, the draw is still a little less than 2 milliamps. No really good Airstreamer is going to let his (or her) battery get below 11.5 volts, so I think this is a good solution--hook this light into the same circuit as the over door light with a small terminal block to provide a mount for the resistor.
That looks like the same unit I used for my license plate light. I'm still looking for interior LED fixtures for the crown, or at least something stylish that I can convert, and LED reading lights that can be adjusted like an airline ball light. I wish somebody (with a bigger fatter wallet then mine)would buy a whole bunch of different styles and types and then post a review. I"ve bought several that I though would be canidates, but will most likely use as closet lights etc.
... I wish somebody (with a bigger fatter wallet then mine)would buy a whole bunch of different styles and types and then post a review. I"ve bought several that I though would be canidates, but will most likely use as closet lights etc....
Well, this isn't much of an analysis, but here's how the addition of the step light turned out. You can see the pool of light about 2' away from the step, coming from the over door light. I added the 3-LED module in the space between the door tread and the frame edge--it's a cavity along the bottom edge of the door, about 1" square along the whole length of the door. The angle of the module is restricted by the width of this channel, so it winds up pointing at the aft edge of the deployed stair. You can't see it too well in the photo, but there are three spotlights on the step. I think the combination works OK, but you have to accept a dark band about 2' wide from the step to the pool of light from the over door module.
Despite the nearly vertical angle of the step module, due to the channel, the advantage of putting it in the channel is that if the step is up, the module still shines down on the ground. If the module was back in the step well, it would be obscured when the step was up.
Just another small mod that took all day...
BTW, ignore the illumination on the bare tree. This is a composite photo and there was some fill flash to provide some detail on the shell. However, the illumination levels from the step light and the overhead door light are very representative of what it looks like to the eye. And to think, all that step illumination for just 2 milliamps!
Just purchased a bi-pin warm white lamp as a test to see if I would like it in my overhead recessed. Fit just fine, but I didn't like the quality of the light...much more harsh that the halogen lamps. Even with the energy savings not worth it to me to purchase more. I'm staying with the originals for the atmosphere. LED might be used elsewhere, just not overhead recessed.
I installed the G4 fixture centered and flush into the ceiling skin, directly across from the leading edge of the door. I am amazed at the wide angle of the light and the smooth illumination. You can see the fixture/LED is right at the top of the frame in this photo. The brightness of the scene in the photo is close to what I perceived visually. You could read by it, but not comfortably. If you installed two of these LEDs in the same general area, it would be well lit.
I don't know about others' opinions, but the position of the existing spot lights in the front above the windows, directly in line of where the wing windows used to be, is totally too far forward and inconvenient. I think two of these LEDs installed just above where the speakers are would be much better (pointing down, of course).
Now I just need to get the warm version of this LED.
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