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Old 02-05-2013, 06:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdphoto View Post
Saw your post from last Spring. Did you ever resolve your problem? My brother is going through this now and has noted carefully that the problem seems to be related when their could be condensing on the inside of perimeter walls -- not interior walls between rooms. The walls that are in contact with outside air could develop condensation then drip or otherwise form condensation on the dimmer causing it to turn on in a manner that isn't correct and result in full brightness and a warm or hot dimmer.
If you have condensation forming inside the trailer, the best solution would be to take care of that problem, because it will lead to other problems.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:32 PM   #16
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What's really funny here is that the "brother" rdphoto refers to who is also having this problem is actually me, Ho'onanea, the original poster. Hilarious that we found each other on the Air Forums. ;-)

The electrical tape solution was the result of a conference call with a representative from Airstream in Jackson Center and a representative from ITC, the switch manufacturer. The intent with the electrical tape was to cover the aluminum heat sink on the back of the switch and isolate it from possible condensation or contact with the outer skin.

I really thought we were on to a good solution with this but when I went to the trailer this evening around 6:15 PM to get a few things I noticed the light was on even though the on/off toggle was in the off position. I'll be back in contact with Airstream and ITC to let them know the results. I'm not sure where we'll go from here.

As for the condensation, I've had this switch assembly out of the wall more times than I can count and there has never been any condensation or past evidence of any. There is pink insulation all around the area where the switch is. I'd describe it as if a square of the pink stuff was carved out to make room for the switch with about a 1 inch gap around it on all sides. The insulation in the area has never felt even the slightest bit damp. There is no evidence at the floor of dampness.

Stay tuned. . .
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:44 PM   #17
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For what it's worth. I have a 2011 FC that does not have an LED dimmer capability. But I did have really weird problems with the salon lights intermittently simply going out. Finally I took it back to the dealer and under warranty they found a loose wire connection. It took them some time to find the problem, but the lights have been fine since then.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:19 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Road Geezer View Post
For what it's worth. I have a 2011 FC that does not have an LED dimmer capability. But I did have really weird problems with the salon lights intermittently simply going out. Finally I took it back to the dealer and under warranty they found a loose wire connection. It took them some time to find the problem, but the lights have been fine since then.
Thanks for the reply. I did have the tech lead at my dealer go through it very thoroughly and he did not find any problems with the wiring. The problem travels with the switch. I swapped the wires for the overhead ceiling pucks with the single puck over the dinette. Now it's the dinette light that turns on by itself and the ceiling pucks are no longer a problem. And this is the 3rd LED dimmer. So with 3 different dimmers and the knowledge that the problem will "move" with whatever fixture is being controlled by the dimmer, it seems there's some kind of environmental influence. But I don't know what it is.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:19 AM   #19
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I was thinking of getting a dimmer from Airstream to match our trailer switches and am now glad I didn't. The original reason for not ordering it was the shipping was very high.

When we want low lighting, we use the task lights and if we want bright lights, we use the ceiling lights, so while a dimmer is cool, it is not necessary for us. I replaced one of the original incandescent bulbs in the lamp over the sink with an LED with low lumens so we could use it as a night light (sometimes it is left on half a day because we don't notice it in the daylight). Maybe Airstream will give you a simple on/off switch that matches the other switches.

I'm wondering if putting electrical tape over the heat sink will cause the heat sink to be relatively ineffective.

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Old 02-10-2013, 01:53 AM   #20
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Possible Work Around

Our 2011 FC had blue-white LEDs installed that were way too bright, so I removed and replaced them with 10w halogens. Ever since, I've been wanting to reinstall LEDs, but all lower color temperature--2700 to 3500-- but until recently, the pucks were still too bright. I'd thought about a dimmer, but I'm put off by what I've been reading. Also, the three way dimmer is pricy, more than $100 at my dealer.

I have a possible work around that I'm about to try. On the Internet, I see pucks come in 6, 9, and 12 LED configurations. The 6 LED configuration is listed as having roughly the "equivalent" light output of a 10w halogen. The original pucks in our AS were 12 LED configurations, and when turned on, made our interior look like the inside of a searchlight, way, way too bright. I'm thinking that I could mix and match various 6, 9 and `12 LED pucks to get the overall lighting level I want.

Anyone out there experimented with the smaller pucks? I'd like to know before buying another bag full of lights.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:06 PM   #21
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I was about to build up a new dimmer from my own design for my brother (Hoonanea) when I pulled out a stock dimmer and started to look it over closer. I discovered they use the same IC I planned to use but I also noticed something a little odd about the circuit. I made a change to it and shipped to my brother. He is in the middle of testing an AS switch then will test my modified dimmer. I am 99% sure his troubles will not be back with this modification. We should all know in a few weeks....

I have not seen very many other posts in this thread from others with this problem. I am thinking it must not be a big issue.

RD
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:43 AM   #22
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Just found this thread searching for a problem with my LED dimmers (2012 Flying Cloud).

I've never had a problem with them but just now, with the trailer parked in front of my house and on battery only, if I turn on the ceiling lights with the dimmer up full, the lights start at full power, then drop as though the dimmer is on its lowest setting. Then I get almost an inverse relationship if I slide the dimmer down, the lights get a little brighter but never as bright as full on.

This is happening in both the bedroom and main living areas (both using LED ceiling pucks and dimmer switches). The switches are on inside walls so I don't believe it's the leak issue mentioned as a possibility earlier in the thread.

Have there been any new insights on this? I'm certainly going to call the dealer as I'm still under warranty. I think I would actually prefer just straight on/off for the amount of time we actually use the dimmers....

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:29 PM   #23
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Re: that last guy's post... :-)


We're hooked up to shore power now and the lights work fine with the dimmer. I know I've used the lights on battery power before with no problem...I'm getting cornfused!
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:26 AM   #24
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I found with my 'LED drivers' off of the overseas boat, the are susceptible to external RF interference. They kinda act up around strong Bluetooth in close proximity... or my Walkie-talkies on GMRS..when I key up, they twiter a bit..
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:06 AM   #25
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An update. . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Just found this thread searching for a problem with my LED dimmers (2012 Flying Cloud).

I've never had a problem with them but just now, with the trailer parked in front of my house and on battery only, if I turn on the ceiling lights with the dimmer up full, the lights start at full power, then drop as though the dimmer is on its lowest setting. Then I get almost an inverse relationship if I slide the dimmer down, the lights get a little brighter but never as bright as full on.

This is happening in both the bedroom and main living areas (both using LED ceiling pucks and dimmer switches). The switches are on inside walls so I don't believe it's the leak issue mentioned as a possibility earlier in the thread.

Have there been any new insights on this? I'm certainly going to call the dealer as I'm still under warranty. I think I would actually prefer just straight on/off for the amount of time we actually use the dimmers....

Thanks!

I'm subscribed to this thread so I got SteveSueMac's post recently and it reminded me that I've never come back to provide an update here. So, a couple of things have happened. . .

At the same time my brother (rdphoto above) re-engineered a switch for me to try, the representative at ITC also sent me a couple of new switches. While I believe my brother's solution was to redesign part of the circuit, I believe ITC's solution involved a different kind of tape on the back of the switch box to insulate two screws from external interference.

The bottom line is, both switches have performed flawlessly and they are both in use today. And I still have two other switches from ITC for any future projects.

I don't recall my problem being more pronounced whether I was operating on battery power versus full electric from the campground post. But I do know that the problem happened in both situations.

As for CWF's remark about interference. . . .my-brother-the-engineer affirmed some time ago that LED lights are much, much more susceptible to what he called "electronic noise" -- a dumbed-down term for my benefit, I'm sure. In fact, he was fully suspicious of this being the problem from the start.

One more comment. SteveSueMac, you mentioned you might prefer just regular switches vs the dimmers for the overhead lights. You might consider repurposing the dimmers for other sets of lights. From the factory, I believe they're always set to control the overhead LED pucks. I rarely use these except when I want lots of light for cleaning. I swapped the two electrical leads off of the back of the switch with the electrical leads of other switches that were adjacent to the dimmer. So now, in the front of my trailer, the dimmer controls the single puck over the dinette and the former dinette switch operates the overhead pucks. In the back of the trailer, the dimmer now operates the two LEDs over the bathroom vanity and the former vanity light now operates the rear overhead pucks. All of this worked because the switches I swapped out were nearby and it was just a matter of swapping the leads on the back of the switches. It's been a MUCH more useful designation of the dimmers for me.
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:46 AM   #26
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Dimmers can be troublesome, especially the cheap ones. They are electronic and eventually they fail and have to be replaced. The extremes of temperature in a trailer may shorten their life. If you have to replace them with the same ones, it may not be worth it and maybe just using a regular switch may be the best solution.

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