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Old 03-12-2013, 07:06 PM   #21
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I was about to build up a new dimmer from my own design for my brother (Hoonanea) when I pulled out a stock dimmer and started to look it over closer. I discovered they use the same IC I planned to use but I also noticed something a little odd about the circuit. I made a change to it and shipped to my brother. He is in the middle of testing an AS switch then will test my modified dimmer. I am 99% sure his troubles will not be back with this modification. We should all know in a few weeks....

I have not seen very many other posts in this thread from others with this problem. I am thinking it must not be a big issue.

RD
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:43 AM   #22
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Just found this thread searching for a problem with my LED dimmers (2012 Flying Cloud).

I've never had a problem with them but just now, with the trailer parked in front of my house and on battery only, if I turn on the ceiling lights with the dimmer up full, the lights start at full power, then drop as though the dimmer is on its lowest setting. Then I get almost an inverse relationship if I slide the dimmer down, the lights get a little brighter but never as bright as full on.

This is happening in both the bedroom and main living areas (both using LED ceiling pucks and dimmer switches). The switches are on inside walls so I don't believe it's the leak issue mentioned as a possibility earlier in the thread.

Have there been any new insights on this? I'm certainly going to call the dealer as I'm still under warranty. I think I would actually prefer just straight on/off for the amount of time we actually use the dimmers....

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:29 PM   #23
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Re: that last guy's post... :-)


We're hooked up to shore power now and the lights work fine with the dimmer. I know I've used the lights on battery power before with no problem...I'm getting cornfused!
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:26 PM   #24
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I found with my 'LED drivers' off of the overseas boat, the are susceptible to external RF interference. They kinda act up around strong Bluetooth in close proximity... or my Walkie-talkies on GMRS..when I key up, they twiter a bit..
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:06 AM   #25
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An update. . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Just found this thread searching for a problem with my LED dimmers (2012 Flying Cloud).

I've never had a problem with them but just now, with the trailer parked in front of my house and on battery only, if I turn on the ceiling lights with the dimmer up full, the lights start at full power, then drop as though the dimmer is on its lowest setting. Then I get almost an inverse relationship if I slide the dimmer down, the lights get a little brighter but never as bright as full on.

This is happening in both the bedroom and main living areas (both using LED ceiling pucks and dimmer switches). The switches are on inside walls so I don't believe it's the leak issue mentioned as a possibility earlier in the thread.

Have there been any new insights on this? I'm certainly going to call the dealer as I'm still under warranty. I think I would actually prefer just straight on/off for the amount of time we actually use the dimmers....

Thanks!

I'm subscribed to this thread so I got SteveSueMac's post recently and it reminded me that I've never come back to provide an update here. So, a couple of things have happened. . .

At the same time my brother (rdphoto above) re-engineered a switch for me to try, the representative at ITC also sent me a couple of new switches. While I believe my brother's solution was to redesign part of the circuit, I believe ITC's solution involved a different kind of tape on the back of the switch box to insulate two screws from external interference.

The bottom line is, both switches have performed flawlessly and they are both in use today. And I still have two other switches from ITC for any future projects.

I don't recall my problem being more pronounced whether I was operating on battery power versus full electric from the campground post. But I do know that the problem happened in both situations.

As for CWF's remark about interference. . . .my-brother-the-engineer affirmed some time ago that LED lights are much, much more susceptible to what he called "electronic noise" -- a dumbed-down term for my benefit, I'm sure. In fact, he was fully suspicious of this being the problem from the start.

One more comment. SteveSueMac, you mentioned you might prefer just regular switches vs the dimmers for the overhead lights. You might consider repurposing the dimmers for other sets of lights. From the factory, I believe they're always set to control the overhead LED pucks. I rarely use these except when I want lots of light for cleaning. I swapped the two electrical leads off of the back of the switch with the electrical leads of other switches that were adjacent to the dimmer. So now, in the front of my trailer, the dimmer controls the single puck over the dinette and the former dinette switch operates the overhead pucks. In the back of the trailer, the dimmer now operates the two LEDs over the bathroom vanity and the former vanity light now operates the rear overhead pucks. All of this worked because the switches I swapped out were nearby and it was just a matter of swapping the leads on the back of the switches. It's been a MUCH more useful designation of the dimmers for me.
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:46 AM   #26
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Dimmers can be troublesome, especially the cheap ones. They are electronic and eventually they fail and have to be replaced. The extremes of temperature in a trailer may shorten their life. If you have to replace them with the same ones, it may not be worth it and maybe just using a regular switch may be the best solution.

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