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Bgibbs · 03-04-2017, 04:30 PM

I am trying to remove center clearance light so I can tap into power for the camera. Light only has about 3/4" of extra wire and I can't get the light out far enough to work with wiring. I have pulled pretty hard on the wiring but it won't budge. Any suggestions? I thought this was going to be easy!

I was surprised at the lack of sealant around the screws holding the light. Is this normal?

woodfox45 · 03-04-2017, 05:09 PM

I had to get at the clearance lights on mine and they put a huge gob of sealant around the wires on the inside I got access through the overhead locker . I know airstream charges
1 1/2 hour labor to install a rear camera and I don't know how they get to the wires .

Bgibbs · 03-04-2017, 05:24 PM

I'll try the overhead locker tomorrow.

Thanks,

Barry

lewster · 03-04-2017, 08:15 PM

If you have a plastic bushing placed in the aluminum hole beneath the wires as the head into the skin (some of the newer models use method this for running the wires thru the outer skin), you might try removing that first. It will give you a larger hole to remove the but connectors (one at a time) at the end of the thin clearance light wires to give you more length to work with for your splice......

waninae39 · 03-04-2017, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bgibbs

...Light only has about 3/4" of extra wire and I can't get the light out far enough to work with wiring. I have pulled pretty hard on the wiring but it won't budge. ...

try soldering it, but put heat shrink on the new wire first. afterwords, melt the heat shrink for a time connection. Then you will have as much wire as you need. I suggest stranded vs single copper wire

Bgibbs · 03-04-2017, 08:56 PM

No plastic bushing. Just a very tight rubber grommet. I was trying to avoid cutting wires and was just trying to strip off about 1/4" of insulation so I could solder the backup camera wires. I accidentally cut one of the wires and things went downhill fast. I got a butt connector but it was too long for the room I had, so I cut it in half. I used two halves and spliced a short piece of wire in and soldered the camera wire. Now the rubber bushing is against the bottom of the light and I don't know if I can get it back in the hole in the skin. The negative wire went according to plan but the positive wire with the connectors looks really sloppy. I did power up the camera and got in the truck which was in the garage about 50' away and the camera works great, even at that distance and around the corner of the house.

Journey'81 · 03-05-2017, 11:30 AM

I had to do what waninae39 suggested (soldering & heat shrink tubing) when I installed my rear camera a few weeks ago. Is tight but can be done. Wish I took a picture - had to work fast as it was getting dark (took me 3 times longer than I had hope, making a trip to Home Depot to buy the solder iron & wires, and making stupid mistakes along the way). I used the center clearance light for the 12V power source.

Bgibbs · 03-05-2017, 04:39 PM

Is there any way to get to the wiring from the inside on a 2016? I really would like to clean this up, but I need access to the wiring. Behind the rear overhead?

Bgibbs · 03-11-2017, 05:39 PM

I gave up trying to get more wire out of the skin to do a neat connection. I coated everything with liquid electrical tape and put it back together. I mentioned in my OP that there was no sealant around the holes in the skin. I used Tremco around all the outside lights and between the plastic lights and the metal bases. I only sealed the top side and ends so any trapped water could get out. I just hope I never have to replace one!