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Old 09-23-2014, 12:29 PM   #15
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Unsure of Voltage Range for the Ikea lights

Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
Most LED lighting that I have worked with will operate in a stated voltage range, say 9-30 VDC. Look at the instruction sheet on your device to see if they specify an operational range for the DC voltage.


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Lew, I'm unsure of the voltage range on these lights because they are designed to operate off of a converter / transformer that inputs 110V and outputs 12V. The only information I could find anywhere in the IKEA package or online was that information that was on the back of the transformer - see the first post in this thread.

Again, I'm not using the transformer and have just hardwired the lights into my Airstream's 12V system. Good to know that most LEDs have an operational range - I'm just hoping the IKEA lights do as well.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:22 AM   #16
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About the questions mention on post #13 by AstreamJake, here is some additional informations:
* Did you install the 'bleeder diodes' BEFORE the lights in the circuit, or are they installed AFTER the lights in the neutral wire leading from the lights?
- I install these diodes in a box with a 2 Amp fuse before the LED lights. I install these additional LED along a wireless "dimmer" in my Flying Cloud mainly for 2 reasons: Airstream provide roof LED dimmer only in late 2011 models (mine is early 2011 production) and mostly because the Airstream LED lights are daylight (+6 000K) and poor CRI. I do not like this bluish-greenish look compare to the halogen color temperature like the range hood-fan. (See pictures attached).
The electrical path for my set up is:
1- Power from under the front bed 12 volts distribution panel
2- Fuse and bleeder diodes in a plastic box
3- Wireless dimmer
4- LED's

* What is the difference between bleeder diodes and resistors?
- Voltage drop in resistors vary relative to the current (Amperes) that will pass true it. I use a dimmer and current in the electrical path vary upon the "dim" level.
- In a single diode there is a fix 0,7 Volt voltage drop (relatively independent to the current) due to the silicon junction of the diode.


* How did you calculate that you needed a voltage drop of 1.4V?
- The nominal voltage of a Lead Acid battery is not 12 volts. The floating of these batteries is 13,4 volts. In a charging process the battery charging voltage can vary from this floating voltage up to 14,5 volts. I have a 95 watts solar panel and my batteries are fully charged most of the time at the end of the day when I used LED lights. My calculation was: Floating voltage (13,4v) minus 2 diodes voltage drop (1,4v) give me 12 volts.

The LED Under Cabinet lights that I purchase for this application are quite expensive and my installation was not easy to do. From then I do not want to replace some of them if I have individual LED failures. Keep in mind that frequently LED in a strip of fixture are mount electrically in a group (generally at least 3 LED per group) and if you have one burn LED you have a "black hole" in your strip. In my case, if I have this kind of failure, I have to replace a fixture… I do not want this situation for me.

Hope this clarify, but if you need more info, do not hesitate.
Michel
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Old 09-24-2014, 12:05 PM   #17
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If you check the voltage on the little IKEA transformer you may find it is not exactly 12V. You should be fine first wiring them to 12v.
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:02 PM   #18
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Source of bleeder diodes and plastic junction boxes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Papou View Post
About the questions mention on post #13 by AstreamJake, here is some additional informations:
* Did you install the 'bleeder diodes' BEFORE the lights in the circuit, or are they installed AFTER the lights in the neutral wire leading from the lights?
- I install these diodes in a box with a 2 Amp fuse before the LED lights. I install these additional LED along a wireless "dimmer" in my Flying Cloud mainly for 2 reasons: Airstream provide roof LED dimmer only in late 2011 models (mine is early 2011 production) and mostly because the Airstream LED lights are daylight (+6 000K) and poor CRI. I do not like this bluish-greenish look compare to the halogen color temperature like the range hood-fan. (See pictures attached).
The electrical path for my set up is:
1- Power from under the front bed 12 volts distribution panel
2- Fuse and bleeder diodes in a plastic box
3- Wireless dimmer
4- LED's

* What is the difference between bleeder diodes and resistors?
- Voltage drop in resistors vary relative to the current (Amperes) that will pass true it. I use a dimmer and current in the electrical path vary upon the "dim" level.
- In a single diode there is a fix 0,7 Volt voltage drop (relatively independent to the current) due to the silicon junction of the diode.


* How did you calculate that you needed a voltage drop of 1.4V?
- The nominal voltage of a Lead Acid battery is not 12 volts. The floating of these batteries is 13,4 volts. In a charging process the battery charging voltage can vary from this floating voltage up to 14,5 volts. I have a 95 watts solar panel and my batteries are fully charged most of the time at the end of the day when I used LED lights. My calculation was: Floating voltage (13,4v) minus 2 diodes voltage drop (1,4v) give me 12 volts.

The LED Under Cabinet lights that I purchase for this application are quite expensive and my installation was not easy to do. From then I do not want to replace some of them if I have individual LED failures. Keep in mind that frequently LED in a strip of fixture are mount electrically in a group (generally at least 3 LED per group) and if you have one burn LED you have a "black hole" in your strip. In my case, if I have this kind of failure, I have to replace a fixture… I do not want this situation for me.

Hope this clarify, but if you need more info, do not hesitate.
Michel
Michel, where did you buy your bleeder diodes and the plastic junction boxes in which they are contained? Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:27 PM   #19
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Bill of material

You will find below the material used for the project. A component electronic store can be a good source for required material.
Diodes (Quantity : 2)
3-Amp Barrel Diodes : Diodes | RadioShack.com

Plastic box (Quantity : 1)
Project Enclosure (5x2.5x2) : Project Boxes | RadioShack.com

Terminal Block (Quantity : 1)
RadioShack® 4-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips - RadioShack.com

Fuse Holder (Quantity : 1)
Screw-Cap Panel-Mount Fuse Holder : Fuse Holders | RadioShack.com

Fuse Fast Blow 2 Amp. (Quantity : 1)
2.0A 250V 5x20mm Fast-Acting Glass Fuse (4-Pack) : Glass Fuses | RadioShack.com

Strain Relief (Quantity : 1)
I cannot find in the Radio Shack web site this item

Feel free to ask me questions…

Michel
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:11 AM   #20
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Great information

Quote:
Originally Posted by Papou View Post
You will find below the material used for the project. A component electronic store can be a good source for required material.
Diodes (Quantity : 2)
3-Amp Barrel Diodes : Diodes | RadioShack.com

Plastic box (Quantity : 1)
Project Enclosure (5x2.5x2) : Project Boxes | RadioShack.com

Terminal Block (Quantity : 1)
RadioShack® 4-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips - RadioShack.com

Fuse Holder (Quantity : 1)
Screw-Cap Panel-Mount Fuse Holder : Fuse Holders | RadioShack.com

Fuse Fast Blow 2 Amp. (Quantity : 1)
2.0A 250V 5x20mm Fast-Acting Glass Fuse (4-Pack) : Glass Fuses | RadioShack.com

Strain Relief (Quantity : 1)
I cannot find in the Radio Shack web site this item

Feel free to ask me questions…

Michel
Thanks for your help, Michel. Great information.
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:24 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
Outwater Plastics has a lot of LED units.
What a great source of supplies, Whew!! Just browsing their catalog is a kick!
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:18 PM   #22
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Bill of material part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by AStreamJake View Post
Thanks for your help, Michel. Great information.
I forget few things in my last communication about the material required:

Cable Stranded wire 18AWG (Quantity : 24/36 inches)
NTE 25-Ft. 600V 18AWG Stranded Wire - 105°C (White) : Hookup wire | RadioShack.com

LED Indicator (Quantity : 1)
Note: Be careful to have enough space in the depth of your plastic box to handle the LED indicator length located in the box cover.
Red LED with Holder : LED Holders | RadioShack.com

Spade Terminal (Quantity : 4)
#8 Insulated Spade Terminals (16-Pack) : Spade Terminals | RadioShack.com

Butt Connector (Quantity : 4)
Before and after your box for easy connection to your LED strip and to power (trailer) source
INSTALL BAY RNBC Butt Connector (Red 22-18 gauge) : Wiring & installation | RadioShack.com

About the strain relief that I use (that I cannot find any trace in Radio Shack web site) you will find below a picture of them (Quantity: 2 required)

Happy hobbling!
Best regards
Michel
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:23 PM   #23
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I put the wrong Hyperlink on the Spade terminal. Here is the good one:
Spade Terminal (Quantity : 4)
#8 Insulated Spade Terminals (16-Pack) : Spade Terminals | RadioShack.com

Sorry,
Michel
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Old 09-27-2014, 11:57 PM   #24
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I have been using these LED lights in the back of my work van for 3-4 years now, they seem to handle 12V no problem and when the vehicle is running and the alternator is turning they seem to handle 14V no problem.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:48 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photomikey View Post
I have been using these LED lights in the back of my work van for 3-4 years now, they seem to handle 12V no problem and when the vehicle is running and the alternator is turning they seem to handle 14V no problem.
Thanks. That's good to know. At the low cost of these lights, if I get three years out of them, I'll be happy.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:04 PM   #26
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I've been using these lights for several months now without diode, just directly off 12+/- volt feed and have had no problems, except that when set on automatic they either turn on and don't turn off or they won't turn on. That not too much of a problem for me though, since I've wired them to a more convenient switch (the switch on the light itself is so small that it's hard to use). However! I love the output and color of the light, which is as warm as an incandescent.
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