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Old 11-27-2008, 08:22 AM   #15
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I had about the same problem with mine. My 67 has 3 12v circuit breakers that power up the various 12v circuits. The circuit breaker that powered the front lights turned out to be bad. It is a 20 amp breaker available at auto parts stores. Adios, John
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:56 PM   #16
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tphillips was gracious enough to email a PDF of the wiring diagram. I am having a heck of a time debugging my 12V woes on the main overhead light. I've checked all 12V connections down by the battery and they are solid.

So today I decided to apply 12V (battery charger set to 2 amps) to the wiring at the kitchen light (first light in the circuit). Miraculously the kitchen, main overhead and two front reading lights all worked. I was able to verify that the "mystery switch" adjacent to the entry door was a master power switch for the main overhead light. At one point while my additional 12V was connected I heard a clicking sound. I disconnected the battery charger (12V source) from the kitchen light and all lights continued working.

Is there a relay in the Univolt that might do this? But if that were the case it would have killed all 12V power.... My next thought is that perhaps these little black items down by the battery are the circuit breakers that Diesel1 spoke of (see pic). But when I check them with a multimeter they all appear to be functional (even when the lights don't work). Does anybody have any insight they can offer. Regrettably, when I went out to my trailer later in the day, the lights worked briefly and then quit. ARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!! Now I know why I am a mechanical (and not electrical) engineer. Any insight greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:24 PM   #17
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Hi Todd,
I'm no electrical engineer either, but I'm pretty sure that the device in your picture is a set of auto-reset switches for the 12v system. I found something similar in the 12v lines in the Safari. I believe they act like a breaker when they are working correctly. I bet one of them powers all of your non-working lights, and when you powered the circuit with your battery charger it tripped it back on.
I would guess that there is a short to ground in one of the switches or connections on that circuit.
The aluminum wiring is only a problem at the connections. The wire itself is fine. My understanding is that the aluminum expands and contracts more than copper does, so connections tend to loosen up over time more than they would with copper wiring. You can get special pigtails to convert to copper at the connecting points, but with as few to deal with as you have it may be best to just open up the switches and light fixtures and re-tighten all of the connections. With the 110v appliances it may be a good idea to use the pigtails for increased safety.
I'll talk to you soon, Rich
P.S. always use caution when taking electrical advice from a cabinetmaker
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:32 PM   #18
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Interestingly enough when we were getting ready to have our home's electrical service redone, they run those main feeds here in aluminum wire. They use special fittings with a special compound applied. That compound is available at home depot and lowes.

Those are a circuit breaker of sorts. Should likely be connected to one 40 amp glass fuse on the main breaker. Easy to test with a volt meter on either terminal to see if 12v is going across.
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Old 12-04-2008, 09:28 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddster View Post
tphillips was gracious enough to email a PDF of the wiring diagram. I am having a heck of a time debugging my 12V woes on the main overhead light. I've checked all 12V connections down by the battery and they are solid.

So today I decided to apply 12V (battery charger set to 2 amps) to the wiring at the kitchen light (first light in the circuit). Miraculously the kitchen, main overhead and two front reading lights all worked. I was able to verify that the "mystery switch" adjacent to the entry door was a master power switch for the main overhead light. At one point while my additional 12V was connected I heard a clicking sound. I disconnected the battery charger (12V source) from the kitchen light and all lights continued working.

Is there a relay in the Univolt that might do this? But if that were the case it would have killed all 12V power.... My next thought is that perhaps these little black items down by the battery are the circuit breakers that Diesel1 spoke of (see pic). But when I check them with a multimeter they all appear to be functional (even when the lights don't work). Does anybody have any insight they can offer. Regrettably, when I went out to my trailer later in the day, the lights worked briefly and then quit. ARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!! Now I know why I am a mechanical (and not electrical) engineer. Any insight greatly appreciated.
Those are the ciruit breakers, one of them is tripping. If you disconnect them 1 at a time you will see which ones work and which one doesnt. Adios, John
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:03 AM   #20
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EUREKA....

For those wondering; after purchasing three new circuit breakers, I discovered that the source of my 12V electrical woes was a faulty connection at the breaker. This explains why my multi-meter indicated that the circuit breaker was functioning. Next time I will replace all terminals before I race out and purchase three non-refundable auto reset circuit breakers (oh well, now I have spares).

Thanks one and all for your inputs!!!
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