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Old 11-07-2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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'Gaskets' for marker lights

I am getting ready to install my marker lights on the Bambi II. I am using VTS Teardrop Marker Clearance Light amber and red versions of these.

The question is how to seal them to the siding. They come with no foam gasket at all. The marker lights I used on my Scotty actually had a nice thick foam gasket to place between the siding and the light fixture.

I was thinking of using duct seal- but I know that will dry out in time. Also, I think Tempro would work, but I am not sure I want the seal to be that permanent.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a foam sheet that can be cut to size and used to make surface gaskets for the VTS lights?

Thanks for any suggestions-

Ben
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II View Post
I am getting ready to install my marker lights on the Bambi II. I am using VTS Teardrop Marker Clearance Light amber and red versions of these.

The question is how to seal them to the siding. They come with no foam gasket at all. The marker lights I used on my Scotty actually had a nice thick foam gasket to place between the siding and the light fixture.

I was thinking of using duct seal- but I know that will dry out in time. Also, I think Tempro would work, but I am not sure I want the seal to be that permanent.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a foam sheet that can be cut to size and used to make surface gaskets for the VTS lights?

Thanks for any suggestions-

Ben
Ben.

Simply seal them with Par-bond.

Gaskets are not needed.

Andy
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:00 PM   #3
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I would only seal the top and ends of the fixture, leaving the bottom unsealed, to let the condensation drain. You will get condensation.
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Old 11-07-2013, 01:54 PM   #4
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Just a guess, but I would suspect that a thick foam gasket would hold water, and we all know that is the next step after that!
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:02 PM   #5
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I would only seal the top and ends of the fixture, leaving the bottom unsealed, to let the condensation drain. You will get condensation.
Don't leave the whole bottom unsealed. Just leave a small "weep hole" at the lowest point. That way your slipstream while towing won't cause water to be blown up through the bottom edge, but trapped water from condensation still has a place to drip out.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:19 PM   #6
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On our 63 Safari the base flange of the lamp was sealed with Par-bond all the way around the base. No evidence of it ever having leaked.

The older teardrops are different than the new style with a base that is a quite a bit larger than the lens.


The lens seal I replaced with a gasket I cut from an inner tube. (did the same on the Classic..pic).


I did file a slight V in the low point edge of the lens to help with evaporating/draining condensation.

Bob
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:11 PM   #7
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The wire comes through the base in the wrong spot. You will need to drill a new hole in the base to move the wire. I use a rubber grommet in the new hole and one in the trailer hole. It causes a slight bulge that the soft aluminum base easily hides. I buck rivet the bases on when ever I can. You will ever only replace the bulb or the lens in your life time.
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:56 PM   #8
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This is on the right track. What you're sealing is not the light per se, but rather the hole through the skin that the wire passes through.

I do use gaskets, cut from tire innertube rubber. Critically, I create a very small hole through the center of the gasket and force the wire through it, sealing at that point. And I seal between the Airstream and the back (Airstream) side of the gasket just around the wire with a good gob of blue automotive gasket maker.

Because these lights operate from a hot wire through the bulb/LED to ground via the light attachment screws/rivets, you don't want to add goop to the attachment screws/rivets. I do use rivets (Olympics, in my case) rather than screws and make sure that the hole though the skin is just big enough to fit the rivet through.


Lynn
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:02 PM   #9
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VULKEM.
The wire comes through the base in the wrong spot. You will need to drill a new hole in the base to move the wire. I use a rubber grommet in the new hole and one in the trailer hole. It causes a slight bulge that the soft aluminum base easily hides. I buck rivet the bases on when ever I can. You will ever only replace the bulb or the lens in your life time.
All of this makes sense. What are the specifics on the grommets? Supplier/size?

Thanks! Ben
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:16 PM   #10
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:17 PM   #11
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the first one is fine for the single wire.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:21 PM   #12
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Great source, Frank! I need some grommets for the ... well, not for the Airstream at the moment, but for the MG.

Lynn
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:25 AM   #13
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T

Because these lights operate from a hot wire through the bulb/LED to ground via the light attachment screws/rivets, you don't want to add goop to the attachment screws/rivets. I do use rivets (Olympics, in my case) rather than screws and make sure that the hole though the skin is just big enough to fit the rivet through.


Lynn
I am also considering riveting a ground wire onto the base of the light as I would like to seal the screw/rivet holes.
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:32 AM   #14
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Sounds like a plan. You surely have lights that are different from ours, which wouldn't lend themselves too easily to a ground wire.

If you decide to rivet the lights to the body, be sure that the holes for the rivets are just the right size. Standard pop rivets would create a very tight seal against the properly sized hole, likely allowing so little leak that it wouldn't be worth bothering with. I would have used pop rivets rather than Olympics to attach the lights, but didn't have any that were long enough. (Another instance in which living in the boondocks really kind of stinks.)


Lynn

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I am also considering riveting a ground wire onto the base of the light as I would like to seal the screw/rivet holes.
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