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Old 02-17-2010, 09:14 AM   #15
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2004 28' International CCD
1948 22' Liner
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I agree HowieE. When I looked at these light assemblies last year you could see that the LEDs were placed in the appropriate position to emmit the light in the right direction to provide the proper illumination. That was one of my concerns with just replacing the bulbs. The LEDS can be pointing in the wrong direction with only the bulb replacement.

Nice meeting you and Braith at the 2010 Can Opener. What a nice gathering of people. We will be back next year and hopefully it will be a bit warmer.

Safe Travels!!
Tim
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
LED replacements are the way to go.

You can attach the ground wire next to the hole where the hot wire goes thru the metal, so that it's on the backside of the light base.

You "must" seal the hole that the wire goes thru.

Also, after the light is installed, a bead of sealer around the 2 sides and the top of it, is very essential, to positively make sure there is no leak.

Simply mounting the light against the shell, wouldn't begin to stop a water leak.

Andy
Andy,
What is offered in LED clearance lights and teardrop markers that will match a 65? Steve
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:51 PM   #17
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Andy,
What is offered in LED clearance lights and teardrop markers that will match a 65? Steve
Steve.

The folllowing is one of the LED's.

http://www.inlandrv.com/catalog/images/64700.JPG

65's did not use teardrop lights.

Andy
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:12 AM   #18
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Hey Crispyboy,

Did those Grote lights you bought, look like what is in the link you attached. Did the new lights have enough recess or cavity on the back side, to not smash the wires against the shell?
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Old 04-15-2018, 07:15 PM   #19
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On my '67 GT, I removed all the marker lights, and cleaned them up and painted the bases. They are in remarkably good shape, and in the spirit of saving money, they are all remounted. I have found that the two pieces inside the light which should both be grounded by contact with each other, are no longer electrically connected, I suspect due to oxidiation. I have found that grinding a little spot on one of light fixtures, the part that fits a bulb, soldering a short wire there, and attaching a crimped on ring connector to the other end, and drilling a 7/64 hole all the way though the metal with the rivet/screw attaching the light to the skin, and into the shell, then screwing down the ring connector with a #6 self-tapping SS screw reactivates the light. I made new gaskets with silicon gasket material, like from vintage trailer and sealed up everything with polyurethane sealant when initially remounting them last year.

With a much shorter screw, it would work just to go through the plate, I checked and have a good ground there.

I think if you drill through the base of the light bulb fixure, and through the metal plate under that, you then will drill through insulation and then through the piece of metal which is "hot", and short the whole thing out. I almost did that, then thought better of it!
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:10 AM   #20
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I have found that grinding a little spot on one of light fixtures, the part that fits a bulb, soldering a short wire there, and attaching a crimped on ring connector to the other end, and drilling a 7/64 hole all the way though the metal with the rivet/screw attaching the light to the skin, and into the shell, then screwing down the ring connector with a #6 self-tapping SS screw reactivates the light.
Rivets are the preferred fastener for longevity because they do not come loose and because they do not suffer dissimilar metal corrosion as will eventually affect ss screws in aluminum.

Quote:
I made new gaskets with silicon gasket material, like from vintage trailer and sealed up everything with polyurethane sealant when initially remounting them last year.
Polyurethane is usually longer lasting the silicone in outdoor uses.

Typically, these lights have drain holes since the covers aren't sealed to the bases. It is important to be sure that the drain hole isn't blocked by sealant. Usually it is workable to seal the top 2/3 of the light, allowing the bottom 1/3 to drain.
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:08 AM   #21
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Rivets are the preferred fastener for longevity because they do not come loose and because they do not suffer dissimilar metal corrosion as will eventually affect ss screws in aluminum.



Polyurethane is usually longer lasting the silicone in outdoor uses.

Typically, these lights have drain holes since the covers aren't sealed to the bases. It is important to be sure that the drain hole isn't blocked by sealant. Usually it is workable to seal the top 2/3 of the light, allowing the bottom 1/3 to drain.
Thanks! I meant to say I sealed the back of the bases with polyurethane sealant...particularly where the rivets and wire pass through.

I'll look at using a aluminum pop rivet for my new grounding tab, inside the light...thanks!
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