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Old 09-04-2007, 10:57 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Condoluminum
Two clarifications and a request....



3. I'd love to see picture of Barry's flasher and wiring to plug into connector.. We've seen versions that activate running lights for night decor, but would add a flashing version if offered..
I will take a picture of what I have done tomorrow and post it. It's really quite simple. I also have my trailer lights on at night when camped and while we are sitting outside. I like the glow from the marker and tail lights whether it's towing or sitting in the evening while we sip hot drinks and enjoy.

Barry
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:16 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari57
As a note, you may want to carry a spare signal light flasher in your trailer. If you ever are in a situation where the trailer has to sit on the side of the road you can plug it into your 7 pin connector and have your trailer lights flash the same as if it was still attached to the car with the emergency lights flashing. If you need a picture on where it fits on the connector let me know and I can take one when it's light out tomorrow and post it. You do need a battery in the trailer though so some of the smaller/older rigs may not have that, but almost everyone has one.

Barry
Barry...a picture would be great if you can...

Thanks,
TB
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBRich
Barry...a picture would be great if you can...

Thanks,
TB
For this to work you have to have a battery in your trailer which I think virtually all of us do.

Here are pictures of the 7 Pin connector. The pin on the left (marked 1) is power, the pin on the right (marked 2) is the one for tail lights/marker lights.

I do two things -
  • I have the emergency flasher for roadside incidents where I may have to leave the trailer without the TV.
  • I also have a two prong jumper wire I made in the campground that I plug in when we are sitting out at night and it leaves the running lights on. I pull it out when I head to bed.
It's important to get a heavy duty flasher, and the one with the longer pins works better than with the short pins shown in the picture. Try to get a flasher that was not made in China - I've not had much success with them lasting very long.

Have fun.

Barry
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:25 AM   #4
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Forgot the picture of the flasher pins - they fit perfectly to the 7 pin connector. I cut the longer pins off on this one and should not have as it doesn't quite go all the way down for a solid connection. And it is important to the get the heavy duty one in my opinion.

What is nice with this is that all the running lights flash, not just the brake or signal lights, so it gives more visibility to the trailer.

Barry
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:55 PM   #5
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Update to Running Light on in campground/ LED flasher?

I've been following the threads about building a running light /flasher box. I have a 2013 Bambi Sport 22FB which has LED exterior running lights. I just purchased the 552/536 12V flasher and after plugging it into the umbilical cord to the trailer, the running lights come on, but don't start flashing. Do I need some kind of a resistor to increase the draw on the circuit? The LED lamps probably don't draw enough power to trigger the flasher unit? Some advise would be appreciated. Thanks

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Old 11-14-2014, 10:11 PM   #6
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Indeed

You are correct OD. The LED's do not draw enough juice. You will need to add a resistor for this neat little fabrication to work on your TT.
Gavin
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:25 PM   #7
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Just found out that there is a flasher module made for LEDs. I'll try one on my 2013 Sport which has LED marker and tail lights.

Don- ODSCS
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:23 AM   #8
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Flasher

Don,
Please post a part # to enlighten us all.
Thanks!
Gavin
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari57 View Post
For this to work you have to have a battery in your trailer which I think virtually all of us do.

Here are pictures of the 7 Pin connector. The pin on the left (marked 1) is power, the pin on the right (marked 2) is the one for tail lights/marker lights.

I do two things -
  • I have the emergency flasher for roadside incidents where I may have to leave the trailer without the TV.
  • I also have a two prong jumper wire I made in the campground that I plug in when we are sitting out at night and it leaves the running lights on. I pull it out when I head to bed.
It's important to get a heavy duty flasher, and the one with the longer pins works better than with the short pins shown in the picture. Try to get a flasher that was not made in China - I've not had much success with them lasting very long.

Have fun.

Barry
What I do to turn on the running lights ,instead of using a jumper wire I just plug into the same location as you did a ATO 15 amp fuse ( a slight twist to the fuse blades ) for safety reasons.
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:05 PM   #10
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Update on LED flasher/OFF/ON module.

A brief trip to Ace Hardware found the following:
1- 1 1/4" PVC Tee
2- 1 1/4" PVC Plugs
1- ATC fuse holder
1- 10A ATC fuse (packet of 5)
1- Toggle switch, double pole, double throw, 20A
1- Toggle switch weather proof covers (packet of 2)
1- 7 Pole Blade Tow vehicle plug for connecting to trailer umbilical
1- 2' #16 wire and 1/4" female spade connectors

On order from Summit Racing the American Autowire LED Flasher Relay 510226

I cut off the back part of the 7 Blade connector to allow a larger diameter space to tuck the fuse holder into, cut part of the PVC plugs down to only 3/8" insert depth into the PVC Tee to allow easier removal. Used the Dremel router bit to enlarge one of the interior PVC plugs to allow the switch to fit snugly and drilled a 1/2" hole in the plug for the switch to mount. Placed the weather proof cover to keep rain and dew out of the switch.

The circuit is very simple. One end of the fuse wire goes to the center contact of the switch and the other end goes to the "AX" or 1 o'clock position as you look at the front of the connector. Take the #16 wire and fold in half, strip 1/2" bare and connect it to the Taillight connector "TM" or the 11 o'clock position as viewed from the front of the plug. This gives you 2 leads from the same position of the plug to take one and connect to either end of the switch to complete one circuit for the LED lights to be ON. The switch works by flipping it to the opposite way you have the wire attached to complete that circuit. The switch has a center position for OFF. You can cut the leads down to about 6" to save on wire. Cut the other lead to 6" and it gets a female 1/4" connector to attach to the LED flasher relay at the "L" spade. Take another 6" piece of wire and connect it to the opposite end of the toggle switch connector, place another female connector on the other end and it will plug into the X spade of the LED flasher. I have used some small screws to attach the PVC Tee to the 7 Pin plug and the end plugs to the Tee so that all can be removed if needed. Possibly some caulk is appropriate in wet conditions to seal the joints for a better seal. I've tested part of the unit and the ON condition works as it should, but I need to receive the LED flasher relay in several days to finally test! On line reviews say it handles the LED lighting on cars as stated.

LED4RV web site shows a 12 volt 27 watt resistor RE12v27wSKU290 $7.95 that will convert the standard 552 flash relay to work with LEDs. This is a cheaper way to go than ordering the $17 LED relay, but takes up more space and puts off heat I didn't think was a great idea inside this PVC tee without some vent holes.

I'll post final photos when I get the new LED relay in next week.

Hope you all find this useful for trailers with LED running lights!

Don- ODSCS
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:18 PM   #11
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Photos of LED running lights Flasher/OFF/ON Unit

Photos of 7 pin plug with back cut off to allow fuse holder to pass through when connecting wiring to 7 pin plug and switch. Next photo shows the circuit w/ LED flasher unit. Last photo shows completed unit. This particular LED Flasher unit cannot be plugged directly into the umbilical cord socket as the pins are not wired for that configuration. You could put pigtails on the spades and cross wire back to the umbilical.

Next step is to caulk joints, paint flat black and add ON, OFF, Flash labels.
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