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Old 12-13-2012, 09:19 AM   #15
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What is the term SCARE light referring to. You got me there.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
...They don't make a simpler version for the Airstream that won't cause RFI? So putting a cap across the input fixes the RFI problem? ...
I haven't seen any discs that are simple, i.e., they all have the regulator chip. But I have seen some of the unidirectional towers (like teh example in post #1 with bulb-type bases) that are just LEDs and resistors, so they don't make any RFI, but they aren't as useful as the discs.

As for a cap solving the problem, I don't guarantee it. It did for two of my problem lights, but I also considered using an RF choke if the cap wasn't sufficient. Turns out I didn't need to. I haven't tried suppressing the RFI in the Safari, yet, so I may get more confidence in the single cap idea once I finish the Safari.

The SCARE light is that blinding round light to the right of the entrance door.

Zep
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:56 AM   #17
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Yes SCARE is the light to the right of the door. I picked that name up from this group. I wonder if you could take the towers apart and spread them out like petals on a flower? I picked up some of those to put above the door and in the under bed compartments. They stick out too far and are easily broken in the storage compartments.

Another option is a single high intensity LED like they use in flash lights. I have one that will project a beam several hundred feet away. It has a nice focusing lens on it. The voltage is lower but I am sure you could figure out some drop resistors to get the voltage in range. I think I got this flashlight from DinoDirect. These come directly from China. Ebay is another option.

Perry
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:41 PM   #18
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Ferrite RF Interference Chokes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
RFI opens another door ... with the factory LED dimmer noise and hum picked up in the radio / TV...dealer has no knowledge of a fix .... and told me to call AS.
I've replaced all my interior lights with LEDs (LED4RVs) last summer and haven't noticed an RF "hum" yet. But I did have the "hum" on my previous AS.

However, you may consider using ferrite RF interference chokes on the hot wire to each of the lights within close proximity of your radio/TV speakers. I use RF chokes on several items in my house that cause RF leakage.

The link below is a source for your consideration:

RF Parts Company ~ Chokes

These chokes should help reduce or eliminate the hum.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:09 PM   #19
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Here's a real spotlight. I'm replacing the bar lights in the twin Safari, the ones over the heads of the single beds. Simple materials and design, but a pain to cut the oval for the 40 degree slant of the 1-1/2" ABS. A small angle of aluminum holds the socket back in the pipe so that the face of the LED disc is about 5/8" recessed. This provides plenty of light at the head end of the bed, either for reading in bed or for sitting on the couch (in couch mode) and reading at that end.

The ABS pipe is held in the plywood with hot glue. This whole gizmo will go into a small shelf fixture that can hold a square box of Kleenex and maybe a wine glass. Photos of that item to follow.

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Old 12-17-2012, 08:46 PM   #20
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This is a very interesting thread, thanks for documenting this Zep.

You may want to rethink the hot glue (or beef it up with another adhesive), it doesn't play nice in temperature extremes. In hot enviroments it tends to turn soft and in cold environments it turns brittle and cracks.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
...You may want to rethink the hot glue...
Probably a good idea. But this was only an experiment--a piece of old PVC pipe and scrap plywood. I'm not dolling up the '73 Safari. It's strictly standard inside, except for the LEDs, and will be dedicaed to Burning Man (and possibly other "guy cave" outings, not that I would ever think that Burning Man is guy cave).

We'll see how it does and upgrade as required.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:35 AM   #22
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Great looking "beefy" spotlight, Zep! I picked up some stainless steel swivel lights to replace the forward spots under the plastic "eyebrow" for less than what I paid for the LEDs... I also use them in the head and for reading lights in the bedroom.

But, I sure like how bullet-proof your design is.

Cheers, Art
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:02 PM   #23
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Say you want bright: Here is a little set-up that is compact, but very, very bright. It has two parts: a 10 watt l.e.d., and a motorized heatsink. I'm using it in the scare light, but it would work anywhere. The drawback is that the motor uses as much power (10w) as the light! Still, that's about 20% less than a standard tail light bulb, but MUCH brighter.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excella CM View Post
... It has two parts: a 10 watt LED, and a motorized heatsink. ...
Too bad it's a secret where you got it....
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:19 PM   #25
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Zep you crack me up with your Dry Wit.

Here are over 1700 options at Digikey. They are an industrial supplier for electronics.

Optoelectronics | LEDs - High Brightness, Power Modules | DigiKey

Here are some nice ones on Ebay

3 Watt Warm White LED Aluminum Module Wide Angle Light 009 WW | eBay


Waterproof 5050 SMD 60 Warm White LED Light Modules 12V 3 3M | eBay

Bayonet Single Contact BA15S Base 9 LED 5050 SMD Module 8 to 30 Volt Warm White | eBay

DIY 5W 360 400LM Warm White Light 3000 3500K LED Module | eBay

The baby would make you wet your pants if you had this wired to an IR sensor and put this in your scare light. They make this up to 100W

20W High Power LED Module Lamp for Bulbs Lights Warm White 3000K 2400 Lumin Max | eBay


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Old 12-18-2012, 06:32 PM   #26
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We're looking at running a 18" wide type of wood or maybe brass of some sort down the middle of the ceiling line that is between the front light and Galley current lights. On the 72 International it has the six per light 1156 bulbs in which we replaced them all with the 1156 LED lights (256 lumens ea) which are 10 lights bulbs. Plan is too replace them all, hard wire them with only eight (8) of the recessed lights which are around 936 lumens each. This would also include a dimmer switch as we don't want to look like a lit-up runway at night.
If we figure out how to do it right, we'll add before and after pics. Not cheap up front costs, but I think down the road with all of the camping we do it will pay off not only in light, but energy and heat that the 1156 bulbs generate when they are on.

Enjoy the upgrades, and thanks for showing what things do look like with the upgrades. Very encouraging.

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Old 12-18-2012, 09:35 PM   #27
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Zep and others... OK! So here are the super secret sources. Get 'em while they're hot!

5X 5W 10W High Power LED Heatsink with Fan Aluminium Cooling for 5W 10W LED 12V | eBay
2 Pcs 10W Warm White High Power Square LED Light 800LM Lamp Bulb FX | eBay
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:40 PM   #28
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Converting the porch light

This conversion provides a huge amount of light for about half the current of the old bulb. I anticipate that it will provide a much better area/party light than the scare light. The "lens" is a piece of acrylic, cut to fit, then sanded with 400-grit paper.

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You can also dim it or wire it up so that only one LED is on when you only want a porch light. Photos of the installed performance to follow, once I get it back on the Safari.

You can get it to operate on one LED if you install two dimmable and one non-dimmable LED disc (see this post about non-dimmable LEDs) by using one 56-ohm series resistor and an SPDT switch. My only reservation of this type installation is that the single LED disc might still be too bright.

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