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Old 06-09-2013, 09:20 AM   #15
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I use a 10 gauge piece of copper wire bent in a "U" shape that has the insulation stripped back 1/2" and simply "plug" it into the plug when we want the lights on, and easily pull it out when done. I like Paul's advice on the LED's, that needs to be moved up on my "list" of things to do!


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Old 06-09-2013, 11:14 AM   #16
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I've tried the wire bridge and can't get my lights to light up. When hooked to my TV the clearance lights come on fine. Disconnected from the TV, no clearance lights. Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:31 PM   #17
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I made up a connection using a male plug (car side), an inline fuse (15 amp) and a short piece of PVC pipe. I used spade connectors so that I could plug a flasher in line to use for road side emergencies if ever needed. I would not use the flasher while in a camp site as I think it would be overly annoying to others. I also make sure to turn the lights off prior to going to bed or at a reasonable time in the spirit of trying to be a good neighbor.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by DryFly View Post
I've tried the wire bridge and can't get my lights to light up. When hooked to my TV the clearance lights come on fine. Disconnected from the TV, no clearance lights. Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?
No power from the trailer into the umbilical?
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:40 AM   #19
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Make sure the trailer is plugged into "shore power"...... If it still isn't working, it's possible maybe your 7 pin connector is not wired to the "standard" line-up? http://cdn.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1366933754

A little troubleshooting with a meter should verify this. I'd start with the connector at the rear of your vehicle first, turn the key to the on position & verify you have 12 volts coming through each pin when each "function" is being used. Ex. you should always have 12 volts coming through the green (clearance/running light) pin. When you turn on the left signal you should get a 12 volt reading on & off through the red pin etc...
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