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Old 09-15-2010, 07:29 PM   #1
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Changing Umbilical question

Has anyone replaced the umbilical cord all the way into the trailer?

Had tried to splice in a new section because of a cut close to the plug. Even though I was working several feet from the cut the old wire was so dirty that I could not solder it. Could not clean the wire with flux so now I am having to replace it all the way into the trailer.

What secures the cord as it goes up into the trailer, any hidden hardware?
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:40 PM   #2
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Not sure I understand the question. We had no umbilical when we bought the trailer. The type we have is removable...it plugs into the camper and the truck. We bought one from NAPA that was fixed on one end and "pig-tailed" on the other so that we could wire it in any configuration we wanted to match the camper/truck pin-outs.

The "keepers" on the cable hold it in place on the truck end and the tight fit on the camper end keeps it from slipping out. Wanna a picture or two?

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Old 09-15-2010, 07:46 PM   #3
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I also found that the copper on my '91 was too contaminated to solder when I had to add length for a Hensley...

I used high quality crimp splice connectors and a very good crimp tool, each splice covered after crimping with sealing heat shrink tube. After all the splices were crimped and shrink sealed, a larger piece of sealing heat shrink tubing went over the entire joint - and onto the casing of each main harness for several inches.

To make sure a crimp is good, try to pull it apart by hand, tug HARD for this size wire- ANY movement of the wire in the crimp indicates the joint is no-good.

Crimp splices in production automotive harnesses are required to have the wire pull apart before slipping out of the joint -

Good Luck!
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
...What secures the cord as it goes up into the trailer, any hidden hardware?
no doubt this varies by era.

there is a '7 pin junction box' inside these newer streams...

the hole/s into the stream either have grommets that screw together and clamp/bind the wire,

or there's a big lump of sealant goop around the 7 pin bundle...

or both.

start by looking at the INSIDEs for the junction box.

again how it's handled at the A frame/tongue varies by era.

u might wanna email tech support, or call a knowledgeable service shop and ask.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan View Post
We had no umbilical when we bought the trailer. The type we have is removable...it plugs into the camper and the truck. We bought one from NAPA that was fixed on one end and "pig-tailed" on the other so that we could wire it in any configuration we wanted to match the camper/truck pin-outs.
Jim

Same here . . . almost.

Mine came with a cord that plugged into the trailer 7-way plug that matches my tow vehicle 7-way plug, but it was spliced and molested. I didn't trust the previous owner's work with my life, so I just changed it out with a new cord with a molded plug on one end and a 7-way plug that I wired on the other end. My cord is the same on both ends and it doesn't matter which end gets plugged into which unit.

Gary
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I used high quality crimp splice connectors and a very good crimp tool, each splice covered after crimping with sealing heat shrink tube. After all the splices were crimped and shrink sealed, a larger piece of sealing heat shrink tubing went over the entire joint - and onto the casing of each main harness for several inches.
Good Luck!
Normally I would use crimp splices but the amount of degrading of the wire I question the splice would make a Good Contact. Any additional resistance in the brake circuit would not be good.

Mine is a 91 also. There is no junction box inside or out side. The wire just comes out of a hole in the inner skin about 4 inches from the floor. So far I have not dug into things and thus the question before I do.

I had long since relayed all the trailer lights off the trailer battery, so there is minimal current in those wires. The only wire I really have to insure is good from the TV to the trailer is the brake wire. It may pay to just jumper that wire into the trailer.

But if you have an idea of how to get a new cord through the floor let me know.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Normally I ...

But if you have an idea of how to get a new cord through the floor let me know.
As best i remember...the umb-wiring comes inside in the center between the battery boxes...in the middle of a big pile of goo...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...tml#post733592

I can look for other photos if ya need...
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:43 PM   #8
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I replaced the cord also. Took 30 ft. and ran through the frame in a conduit to battery area.(Stream is gutted) .I bought a 7 way plug with an 8 ft. pigtail.I got a plastic junction box to connect the two pieces. Is this sufficent or do these need to be fused?
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:03 PM   #9
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All of the signals from the TV, directional, parking, brakes, and charging circuit, should already be fused in the TV.

You may want to fuse the charging line at the batteries just as a safety against a fire feeding back from the trailer batteries if that long a line becomes shorted.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:01 PM   #10
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I fused my 7-way like this:




If I hadn't done this, the trailer lights and the 12 volt line would not have been protected. The previous owner had removed all of the 7-way fuses.

Gary
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:21 AM   #11
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I replaced mine a while back. This was a pain in the @ss. I had to remove the front panel of the trailer on the inside i re soldered all the connections. I used 9 wire only because the two charging wires are 10ga instead of 12ga. I purchased 10ft sections and only used one.. it was the perfect length.
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