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Old 01-18-2011, 09:13 PM   #1
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1973 25' Tradewind
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'73 tradewind switches and starting the furnace

We have ordered a manual but it won't be here until next week. As you enter there are two switches just to the right of the door one above the other and then a third switch set further back in on the wall towards the front window. What should they turn on? There is a lever in the stove hood fan but when moved forward or back the fan doesn't turn on. The middle light doesn't turn on. The incoming power line is dead no matter what position the wall switches are in. The light works as tested with wire from power.

Any special instructions on lighting the furnace. The constructor did his normal tinkering but it didn't light. he has called it a night or I would have specific questions from Him.

Are you getting our team work? I research and type, he pulls things apart and puts them back together. he supervised me scrubbing greasy walls and I managed to hurt myself doing that. SILLY me.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:21 PM   #2
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On my 75 TW the two switches closest to the door are for the outside light above the door and the other is part of a 3 way setup for the light over the sink. The switch further away is for the flood (scare) light on the outside.

The middle light and the exhaust fan might be on the same 12 volt circuit. You should check the fuses on the 12 volt fuse panel first. The service manual will show these circuits in detail.

Make sure that the gas valve (under the trailer) for the furnace is turned on.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:34 PM   #3
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
On my 75 TW the two switches closest to the door are for the outside light above the door and the other is part of a 3 way setup for the light over the sink. The switch further away is for the flood (scare) light on the outside.

The middle light and the exhaust fan might be on the same 12 volt circuit. You should check the fuses on the 12 volt fuse panel first. The service manual will show these circuits in detail.

Make sure that the gas valve (under the trailer) for the furnace is turned on.
Thanks!
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Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. - Mark Twain
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:23 PM   #4
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Furnace

Your '73 probably has the same furnace as my '74.
Turn the thermostat all the way down; make sure the gas is turn on; then light the pilot. Once the pilot is lit, you can set the thermostat at the desired temp. You should hear the fan come on and after the plenum warms up, feel warm are coming out the ducts.
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:18 AM   #5
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Great, he had the gas on (the stove works). Not sure how he had the thermostat set. There is a rod with a knob at the end that says push. Should that be depressed when lighting? He tried it both ways. Hoping is was just the thermostat or he is going to pull it (after the manual arrives) for the bench test we read about.
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Old 01-19-2011, 07:53 AM   #6
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Yes; there is a device you push and hold in while lighting the pilot. There is also one that you push and it sounds like it snaps when you push it in. The latter is the piezo electric unit that generates the spark to light the pilot. If the piezo electric unit doesn't work, you can use one of those BBQ lighters to get the pilot lit. The piezo electric button on my furnace is a square device about 1/2"x1/2".
The first knob you push in must be held in for 30 to 60 seconds in order for the thermocouple to get warm enough to hold the gas valve in the safe to open position.
Once the pilot will stay lit, rotate the knob that says OFF-PILOT-ON to the on position.
If you have every lit the pilot on a water heater in your home, it's the same drill.


My trailer has a shut off valve for the cook stove that is seperate from the furnace. The valves are outside under the belly pan. Check and make sure that there isn't a second valve for the furnace.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:07 AM   #7
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WARNING - Safety Recall

There was a recall for all Furnaces made from 1966 to 1977. You should be able to find the s/n and model number on the face of your unit.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...call-2889.html
Campaign : 77E-012 initiated summer of 77
Campaign : 81E-015 initiated winter 81-82

The furnaces were models NT-17, NT-20, NT-22 and NT-30. The serial numbers were 0064881 and lower.

Also Furnaces made between 1970 & 1977 except those with an "M" suffix, serial numbers: 0064881 through 0715865

The furnaces in question have a rubber-like crossover tube that could crack . Extremely dangerous carbon monoxide would then be expelled into the interior.
My 1973 Overlander has a recall unit. On inspection by a certified A/S service center in north FL, they found additional damage and would not even continue inspecting/testing my furnace. They told me not to attempt to light it either! Replacement with a new unit was estimated at $1100 - $1200 (labor & parts). Not worth the cost for me - at this point in time.

Laura
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:09 PM   #8
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkill
There was a recall for all Furnaces made from 1966 to 1977. You should be able to find the s/n and model number on the face of your unit.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...call-2889.html
Campaign : 77E-012 initiated summer of 77
Campaign : 81E-015 initiated winter 81-82

The furnaces were models NT-17, NT-20, NT-22 and NT-30. The serial numbers were 0064881 and lower.

Also Furnaces made between 1970 & 1977 except those with an "M" suffix, serial numbers: 0064881 through 0715865

The furnaces in question have a rubber-like crossover tube that could crack . Extremely dangerous carbon monoxide would then be expelled into the interior.

My 1973 Overlander has a recall unit. On inspection by a certified A/S service center in north FL, they found additional damage and would not even continue inspecting/testing my furnace. They told me not to attempt to light it either! Replacement with a new unit was estimated at $1100 - $1200 (labor & parts). Not worth the cost for me - at this point in time.

Laura
Thanks for the warning.
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Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. - Mark Twain
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:19 PM   #9
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Our Tradewind had similar issues with the stove fan not working, center ceiling light not working, etc. The problem was corroded wiring (from moisture) in the ceiling where the main power wire connects with the wires that branch off for each component. I removed the ceiling fixtures, drilled out the rivets and dropped the ceiling panel down. A multi-meter easily found the problem. Any water that had gotten in must have been a long time before since it was dry above - and we had received a lot of rain.

Here's a picture of our dropped panel.
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:28 PM   #10
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1973 25' Tradewind
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New Smyrna Beach , Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin242
Our Tradewind had similar issues with the stove fan not working, center ceiling light not working, etc. The problem was corroded wiring (from moisture) in the ceiling where the main power wire connects with the wires that branch off for each component. I removed the ceiling fixtures, drilled out the rivets and dropped the ceiling panel down. A multi-meter easily found the problem. Any water that had gotten in must have been a long time before since it was dry above - and we had received a lot of rain.

Here's a picture of our dropped panel.
Thank you thank you
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Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. - Mark Twain
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