'72 Sovereign Tail Lights Are Shot

[mello mike]

Three of four 4" tail lights do not work due to severe corrosion (see pics). I have a couple questions regarding replacement.

1. How do I remove the light casings. I assume I drill out the two reverse rivets, correct? I suppose the reverse rivets mean that the light casings are 37 years old, eh?
2. Where can I buy replacement lights and how much are they typically?
3. Are the 3" "lights" simply reflectors?

[overlander64]

Greetings MelloMike!

I believe that Inland RV has the 4 1/8" replacements in LED form available in their current website offerings. See part numbers: 65990 and 66000 at:

Inland RV Center Inc.

Kevin

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mello mike

Three of four 4" tail lights do not work due to severe corrosion (see pics). I have a couple questions regarding replacement.

1. How do I remove the light casings. I assume I drill out the two reverse rivets, correct? I suppose the reverse rivets mean that the light casings are 37 years old, eh?
2. Where can I buy replacement lights and how much are they typically?
3. Are the 3" "lights" simply reflectors?

You will need to remove the metal cans. They are held in place with a couple of pop rivets.

The 3 inch part is a reflector, nothing else.

Andy

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings MelloMike!

I believe that Inland RV has the 4 1/8" replacements in LED form available in their current website offerings. See part numbers: 65990 and 66000 at:

Inland RV Center Inc.

Kevin

Thanks, Kevin. Are the LED lights the only replacements now available? Also, if I use the LED replacements for the brake lights will the Fiber Optic Light system still work?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mello mike

Thanks, Kevin. Are the LED lights the only replacements now available? Also, if I use the LED replacements for the brake lights will the Fiber Optic Light system still work?

Those LED lights for the tail and backup lights, are sealed units.

The fiber optic tail light monitor is not compatible with sealed LED lights.

We tried to have several hundred of those cans made.

The manufacturer was not interested.

Andy

[overlander64]

Originally Posted by mello mike

Thanks, Kevin. Are the LED lights the only replacements now available? Also, if I use the LED replacements for the brake lights will the Fiber Optic Light system still work?

My understanding is that the metal pots are no longer available -- lenses alone were still available not too long ago. Dallas Peak (DPeakMD) refurbed his 1972 with common auto parts and new lenses several years ago. I am not certain whether the fiber optics would adapt to the LEDS or not -- getting the fiber optic cable to the point where it could "see" the LED lights is where I think the difficulty would lie as the lense and light fixture are probably a single sealed unit.

Kevin

[Ganglin]

This thread may help you some:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f447...hts-52782.html

[mello mike]

Can somebody explain the process to refurbish the existing pots? Sounds like some soldering will be required.

[DanB]

My personal opinion: Trash the old lights.

I replaced my rusted & broken lights after more than a year of screwing around with different parts and sockets.

I went to Napa, bought the LED's, and after a few minutes on the belt sander, everything fits.

As far as the taillight assembly goes, I chose to make mine removable from the outside. This is probably a sin or something, but I used 4 automotive speed nuts in the corners and spliced in removable electrical connectors. Can't see any difference from five feet away.

The LED's are ten times brighter and got to be much safer. I wouldn't hesitate doing it again for a second.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mello mike

Can somebody explain the process to refurbish the existing pots? Sounds like some soldering will be required.

How do you refurbish rusted away steel?

Difficult task, to say the least.

Replace them with LED's and have a beer.

The replacements will probably only last 30 years.

Andy

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by DanB

My personal opinion: Trash the old lights.

I replaced my rusted & broken lights after more than a year of screwing around with different parts and sockets.

I went to Napa, bought the LED's, and after a few minutes on the belt sander, everything fits.

As far as the taillight assembly goes, I chose to make mine removable from the outside. This is probably a sin or something, but I used 4 automotive speed nuts in the corners and spliced in removable electrical connectors. Can't see any difference from five feet away.

The LED's are ten times brighter and got to be much safer. I wouldn't hesitate doing it again for a second.

Thanks, Dan. The ONLY thing holding me back from LEDs is the fiber optic reader. I like that and would hate to dump that.

[DPeakMD]

That design was prone to problems. I don't think I'd trash them. They're really not that far gone. Just pull the metal cans and replace the socket. You can find these lots of places. You need a double bayonet for the brake/turn and a single for the backup. Clean up and repaint the cans. That will give you a good reliable connection. I put bright aluminum tinfoil lining in the can to reflect more light out the lens. Those lenses are designed for a point source of light (like the incandescent bulb) so if you go the LED route it's better to replace the entire piece ala' DanB than put in LED bulb replacements and reuse the same lens. The LEDs are spread out. Make sense?

From the pic it also appears you've got the fiber optics intact as well. Bonus if you keep the original lights. Loose them with the LEDs (unless you do something fancy).

If you need new lenses, look for a gasket to fit between the plastic lens and the metal can. I remember if I bought the red lens it didn't come with one, but if I bought a clear lens it was in the package. Grote makes them. Keeping the water out of these is the key to making them last longer obviously. Good luck!

[mello mike]

Originally Posted by DPeakMD

That design was prone to problems. I don't think I'd trash them. They're really not that far gone. Just pull the metal cans and replace the socket. You can find these lots of places. You need a double bayonet for the brake/turn and a single for the backup. Clean up and repaint the cans. That will give you a good reliable connection.

Thanks, Dallas. One question. Did you solder the new sockets to the bottom of the can? Two of my sockets are completely loose with only the hot lead keeping them in the can.

Yes, the fiber optics work. That's why I want to refurbish the existing lighting.

[DPeakMD]

It's been awhile since I did this, but I think I butt spliced the hot wire. The lights were grounded only through their physical connection and with all the corrosion there I felt that was part of the problem. Mine were intermittently going out and I'd have to jiggle the bulb base to get a connection back. Not an ideal setup. I can't remember exactly, but I got the bulb base fastened to the can somehow. I remember only have like an inch of wire to work with on one side. That was frustrating!

Since then I've bought the '75 & '78 and those lights are a lot easier to work on. You can remove the buckets and get in there and grab the wires and work on them.

[PizzaChop]

Mike,

I pulled both frames and buffed them before replacing cans with "modified" SignalStat (now Trucklite) cans and lenses.

Here are a few pics. A bit more work than the LEDs but you can drill a hole in the back of the can and use the fiber optics as well.

I purchased four lights, 2 clear lenses (for backup), and 12 side marker lights for less than $100 from a local truck supply outlet. (I strongly recommend replacing all lights if you haven't already...I love having everything work when I leave the driveway.)

There's a bit of work involved modifying the fixture, but not too much. It kept the original look, which I prefer.

[Lothlorian]

Pizza Chop told me what he did last year so I took his advice and did the same thing. I got my replacment lights at Northern Tool. I took the lenses of my airstream down to Northern Tool and matched them with Peterson lights. They work great and very inexpensive. The round lights edges have to be sanded a little bit and then they fit right in.

Brian

[DPeakMD]

I'm not clear on how you guys knew where to drill through the aluminum bezel to remove the rivets.

[mello mike]

Thanks, Dallas, Brian and Ron for your responses.

I decided to work on the right brake light, since that's a priorty over the two reverse lights that are still OOC. I drilled out the two rivets holding the can in and with a slight tug, the can came out. After a quick inspection I determined that the can wasn't too corroded, most of that being on the bottom. Took a wire brush, file, and sand paper and cleaned it up. Then applied two coats of black Rustoleum spray paint. Tomorrow, I'll solder the new socket to the can (picked that up at Pep Boys Auto).

I got lucky with the running lights. One of the previous owners replaced them all with the modern running lights with the tiny two pronged light bulbs (don't know the size).

Today I ordered 2 clear and 2 red lenses from Oasis RV. The old lenses were stained, dull, and scratched in some places. They definately needed replacing.

[PizzaChop]

Dallas,

Mine must have been removed at an earlier date and had rivets holding them in from the outside.

[mello mike]

Fixed the right tail light this evening. Rather than soldier the new socket to the can, I soldered a small wire to the socket and crimped a loop fastener on the other end. To form a ground, the loop was attached to one of the screws (used screws instead of rivets to mount the can). Works great and looks great, except I discovered a small problem with my trailer's lights. Time for another thread....