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mello mike · 06-25-2010, 06:56 AM

As you can see in the pic, the pigtail on my '58 Overlander is toast. Right now it's wired for the old-style round 6-pin and I want to convert it to the 7-pin. The wires run up directly through the floor on the other side of the belly pan rubber grommet as seen in the pic.

I need to terminate these wires, somehow, and I'm not sure exactly how to go about doing it. I'm thinking about mounting an external junction box to connect my new pigtail with these wires. That would be functional, but probably won't look too pretty, so I'm looking for any other ideas.

Also, I thought all of the external wires were red? This batch of wiring is multicolored. Was this installed later? Also, anybody know what these two separate green wires are for?

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 07:20 AM

Mike ~

I just sent you a PM. I have some ideas on this electrical issue.

Brad
FF

SilverHoot · 06-25-2010, 07:24 AM

I'm thinking of doing something like this.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...plug-9666.html

SilverHoot · 06-25-2010, 07:25 AM

Brad,

I'm interested also. I added a link to one idea.

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 07:33 AM

SilverHoot ~

That is very close to my plan for the TradeWind although I want to put it under the banana wrap and make a wedge shaped aluminum box to house the metal 7 way female connector. That way the cord can be unhooked from the TV as well as the trailer and taken completely out of the elements. Our heat and sun is ridiculously hard on these as I have replaced mine twice and it is needing it again. I just need to figure out how to deal with the emergency break-away switch's battery connection that is connected to the umbilical mid-point.

Brad
FF

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 08:23 AM

Here's a rendition of what I was thinking when referring to a wedge shape.

Mike - in an effort to solve the problem, I took the green wires out.

Brad
FF

SilverHoot · 06-25-2010, 09:04 AM

That's great. I was just thinking that it might be better up a bit higher, easier on the back and might get a bit less grimy. Like your idea. How did you do that rendition?

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 09:10 AM

I did it in PhotoShop with layers. I want to put it down low so that it is out of sight unless you lean down, in an effort to keep its vintage look.

Brad
FF

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 09:14 AM

I don't have any access to these wires from the inside of the trailer. Some Vintage Airstreams I have seen have an access panel just above where these wires enter between the skins. The wedge shape is to keep the wooden floor intact as the plug is fairly deep. That's another reason for not putting it up higher since it would interfere with the fresh water tank that's inside the interior skin at that point and it would be a bear to work on in that tight of a space.

Brad
FF

SilverHoot · 06-25-2010, 09:32 AM

Got ya. Mines a bit different situation as mine is gutted so access is easy and I'll go to one side of the water tank near where the water pump was originally. How deep is the plug receptacle? If deeper than the wall is thick I may have make a cover on the interior. Hoping that I can find one to look at locally.

mello mike · 06-25-2010, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Here's a rendition of what I was thinking when referring to a wedge shape.

Mike - in an effort to solve the problem, I took the green wires out.

Brad
FF

Brad,
That's a great idea. I LIKE IT! That way I can disconnect the pigtail when it's not in use (deters theft and keeps the pigtail out of the sun).

flyfshr · 06-25-2010, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

How deep is the plug receptacle? If deeper than the wall is thick I may have make a cover on the interior. Hoping that I can find one to look at locally.

The depth of the female plug is about three inches from the exterior wall it would be mounted to plus the amount of space it takes the wires to make their turn. I would allow about 4.5 to 5 inches so you'll have access for connecting and troubleshooting. You'll need an interior cover if you're going to put it up above the banana wrap.

Brad
FF

Jammer · 06-25-2010, 01:28 PM

Mike,

The six-pin round connector may be "old style" but it is what I have on my traylah and tow vehicle. They are more reliable than the 7-blade connector, carry more current, and require a smaller mounting hole. There is also a 7-conductor round pin connector, as you may be aware, that performs well.

Also, although I realize it's extra work, I would suggest that you replace the entire length of the umbilical, given its condition, rather than trying to splice it or install a connector on the relatively less damaged portion of it. It is in poor condition and likely to produce shorts, which could cause lighting and brake failures, compromising safety.

mello mike · 06-25-2010, 01:43 PM

Jammer,
The 7-pin is the defacto standard now, so it's something I want to go with (even though I won't need the backup light wire in my Overlander). As for the pigtail itself, I will definately be replacing the entire thing. The old one had several cuts with wires exposed all along the length.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jammer

Mike,

The six-pin round connector may be "old style" but it is what I have on my traylah and tow vehicle. They are more reliable than the 7-blade connector, carry more current, and require a smaller mounting hole. There is also a 7-conductor round pin connector, as you may be aware, that performs well.

Also, although I realize it's extra work, I would suggest that you replace the entire length of the umbilical, given its condition, rather than trying to splice it or install a connector on the relatively less damaged portion of it. It is in poor condition and likely to produce shorts, which could cause lighting and brake failures, compromising safety.

mello mike · 09-03-2010, 11:46 AM

Well, here's my solution to mounting the umbilical or pigtail. First, I wanted a system to allow removal of the umbilical to prevent damage from the intense Phoenix heat and to deter theft. I had a couple excellent choices, Brad's wedge idea or a straight mount similar to what you see on 70s Airstreams.

I already had a large hole on the curbside front where the old 4-wire plug was mounted (this plug provided 12v power from the tow vehicle directly to the trailer fuse panel for lighting). Using this old hole makes a lot of sense and gives me better access than where the original umbilical was hard wired to the trailer (the fresh water tank will be moved to under the streetside bed, freeing up space in the front for all of my electronics such as my 12v fuse panel and my inverter/chargers).

The pic shows my new Pollak 6-wire plug temporarily installed using the original 4-wire access hole. The extra screw holes have been temporarily closed with rivets and a screw (pop rivet gun broke again

), buck rivets will be installed later.

My umbilical has a 7-wire connector on the vehicle side and 6-wire connector on the trailer side (reverse light wire not used of course).

The old hole where the old umbilical entered the coach will be used as an access point for the brake wire and for my battery wiring (my two batteries are mounted on the A-frame).

Jammer · 09-03-2010, 12:53 PM

Excellent work. Nice.

mello mike · 09-03-2010, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jammer

Excellent work. Nice.

Thanks, Jammer. Actually, you gave me the idea to go with a 6-wire connector. I used your idea halfway

with a 6-wire connector on the trailer side and a 7-wire connector on the vehicle side.

Jammer · 09-03-2010, 02:04 PM

Well, now you have the perfect opportunity to compare how they perform. Post up when you find out which one fails first!

mello mike · 09-03-2010, 04:50 PM

My new Ford F150 came with a 7 blade plug and my Sovereign is already wired for 7 pins so it made sense to go with the 7-blade connector on the vehicle side of the umbilical for my '58.