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Old 06-10-2007, 08:11 AM   #15
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We also have a gt63 and just working on the wiring -
.....issues with 12v = ground, ground,ground,.ground - and nothing else unless of course you have a dead battery or squirrels have chewed the main 12v wire.

You guys all know that the 12v wiring is a simple process - but is pinnicle on a GOOD ground - and usually fusses that provide the continuity....

Here are a few pics that might help you determine what is behind the magic doors - (wall panels) that are really easy to remove or take off to see what is happening.

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ID:	38871 Pic outside of battery box - PS removing the box gets you no further ahead as the wiring is all in the walls.That seems to be a 25amp inline type of fuse as there is both power going in and coming out of it with no ground - so that is the main "bus" fuse I would thing???

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This pic shows it much better where the wires come out of the battery box. Note that is also an important ground (green wire) - ours was rusted off completely - as right above is a window - when they leak they drip down a rib right onto the little channels - poor design - the ground should actually be screwed to the side of the channel that way if it did leak it would not sit in water!!!

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Here is another important ground found up in the front where the wires run down into the belly pan for the TV. Also a very important ground - and ours was broken right off - from bad axle probably - was not corroded but nontheless not attached thus no ground!

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This is what we found under the front just below where the previous picture feeds through the floor to.

There is another 25 amp - with power and neg - positve for us is orange. The right side of the fuse actually was leading to the green (ground) wire in that snakes nest of wires - all the red wires are for marker lights and tail lights.

It was a wonder we got anything to work - and no doubt the fuses did not work (have not checked Yet) as we blue the TV fuse on the way home - we created a by-pass ground at the A-Frame to get the umbilical cord to work.

We are working on the wiring this weekend - adding new inteli, stereo, speakers, charge wire etc. all the new stuff -simple stuff not the fancy wizardry stuff.

Hope this helped a bit.......

:PS if you take your lower panels off - what a huge hint to finding where the leaks are coming from behind the insulation you will see evidence of water drips which really helps in tracking them down

Good luck with your wiring.
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:43 AM   #16
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of course.....

The wiring diagram inside the closet.
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Old 06-10-2007, 05:34 PM   #17
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herb, pete and sharon,

awesome pics, give me hope.. it must be a ground cuz my battery is charged.. i will keep on. success must be around the corner

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Old 06-10-2007, 07:44 PM   #18
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i was getting about 9v from the + battery terminal and the frame.
i made two new grounds, one at the battery to the frame and one in the front, green and white wire to frame. then i was getting 12.7. but still no 12v lights inside.
110 works.
a little frustrated, i don't know what else i can do. except take it to a $hop.
herb, your diagram is cool but it shows your wiring a bit different than mine.
my umbilical cord is on the curb side and i have no overhead lighting.
anyway you all really helped me alot.
terry, you said you might have more ideas... i''m ready.
thanks
mike
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:17 PM   #19
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Mike

I know this may sound silly but do you actually know if your 12v bulbs are working - if there was a poor ground and they went on and off that could be enough to send those bulbs to their early grave.

The screw type 12v bulbs I do not have any either so we can not test ours.

I suppose you could put a tester on the socket to see if you are getting power to each 12v socket??

Mike we have an Ohio made BASIC model too - the south side of the tracks were not privileged to have a ceiling light, antenna, fan or zip - just your rolling sleeping and eating quarters with no table to boot

Don't give up my friend - it will come soon. Cheaper than shop rate for sure!!! Buy some new bulbs too

Cheers
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:45 PM   #20
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i'm not getting 12v to the sockets.. bulbs work, i do test them on the battery occasionally. actually i had a couple of fixtures that didn't work, but the fan and water pump worked before and now don't.
maybe i did something in the front, but i can't see how.. not much to screw up. 7 way from the TV is pretty straight forward, and all ext. lights work
i will remain hopeful.
i have a new axle on order which will come in a few weeks.. if i have not figured this out by then, i might have the shop spend an hour trying to troubleshoot this when my axle is installed..
plus, i need to buy shocks to go with the axle.. any recommendations?
i know inlandrv has some on their parts page..
i am getting a 4000lb dexter axle with 12in electric brakes, but they said i should get the shocks myself.

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Old 06-10-2007, 08:55 PM   #21
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First, run over to Ace Hardware and pick up a couple of 25 watt, 12 volt bulbs. They look just like 120 volt bulbs, but say "12 volts" on them.
Screw them into any sockets that go to the 12 volt system. Probably best if the 120 volt is unplugged to keep from blowing the bulbs.
Try the lights, if they light, your problem is solved, just go buy more light bulbs. If they don't light, check the sockets with a test light, and see if you are getting 12 volts to the sockets. If not, try the other sockets in the fixtures, it is possible you have the two reversed.
If you have 12 volts to the sockets, and no lights, follow the wires to rivets in the ceiling, and try gently moving the wire around on the rivet. If the lights suddenly come on, drill out the old rivets, and replace them with fresh aluminum rivets.
If you do not have 12 volts to the sockets, check to make sure the wires on the battery are really where they belong, it is very possible you put the power wires on the ground post, leaving only the charge wire going to the positive terminal on the battery. I know because I did this when I originally hooked up the wires to the battery in our 63. This will not cause a short, but nothing will work, either. They are not marked, and easy to accidentally swap.
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963gt
peter and sharon
i'm not getting 12v to the sockets.. .... i need to buy shocks to go with the axle.. any recommendations?
mike
Have not really done the research - but we have the verticle shocks and they were still fine for another few years. But they were identicle to the horizontals we had on the 69 which were airstream issue.

I have seen threads here that basically say they are the munro shocks.

Now getting back to your lights.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but each of the lights also have a green ground - and they may also cause the socket from not working or showing you the 12v's.

Most are riveted to the inner shell - but if you had zolatone - double check to see if the ground contacts are still good.

Another big issue - with a dead axle it is amazing the amount of rivet shearing you get - and for some reason - all of our grounds were either broken or rusted.

Good luck again

Super advise there 63 overlander.... we always look forward to your responses in threads
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:47 PM   #23
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tomorrow is another day

ok, my good people.
i will try all those things tomorrow.
thanks
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:02 PM   #24
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ground is good

the light bulbs are ok, and my ground is good.
somehow the 12v is not getting from the battery to the various 12 v locations
and all this started when i replaced the 7 way connector and cable.
here is one of my lighting fixtures.
my battery appears to be connected properly.
2 orange wires on the pos
1 green on the neg
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:23 PM   #25
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Poor Mike - we feel for you - and it always is a mystery. At least you get to do this when the weather is warm.

We had to wire up the Ladybug in freezing weather - same sort of issue happend with us. we connected the green to black at the time which was our ground but all the lights went out. - We then to get the trailer working had to run a better ground at the a-frame and then tied in the orange this time with the brown (for power) and the lights came back on.

What we did not know is that we overloaded the trailer circuit on the TV and blew the TV tail lights (which also took out the courtesy lights inside the vehicle) - but all the other lights were working - had a fun ride when it turned dark - just ran with the 4 ways on.

So I would probably take a look at the 7 way plug and start from scratch.
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:40 PM   #26
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Start at the battery. Find where that wire ends up, the very next spot in the wiring chain where it connects to something, anything. Put a multimeter between that spot, junction, connection, whatever and the skin. Verify you have 13 volts. If it works, make sure that this connection you have found is tight and clean. Follow all wires from this spot and repeat. It's the only way, if you can't find any more fuses.


One last idea. I'm looking at the wiring diagram above. You may have grounded your battery to the skin, through the charging wire, when you were working under access panel. That effectively negates any 12 power reaching your lights. How about finding the battery charging wire coming from the TV, and disconnect from it the pigtail wiring harness and pull out the one that travels back to the battery. So you are sure that the battery is no way attached to anything up front under the access panel. See if that changes anything.
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:50 PM   #27
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i have completely disconnected the 7way pigtail.
coming from the trailer are heavy gauge orange and green bundled with 4 thin red wires for the L, R, tail and marker. a separate 2 strand wire for the brake which looked like white and green.
the tail and marker are were connected together to the green from the TV
the L and R were connected to their respective red and brown from the TV.
black from the TV went to the trailer circuit breaker which had the orange from the batt on the other terminal.
Trailer green went to TV white (also grounded that to frame)

one of the orange wires connected to the batt must go to the front via the circuit breaker near the battery box on the curbside wall.
voltmeter says up front the orange wire has 12v whether grounded to the frame or the green wire.
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Old 06-11-2007, 03:51 PM   #28
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OK i got it

i went back to check all connections and found one connection loose back at the circuit breaker by the battery. which explaines the lack of 12v at those fixtures.
whew.. i was really getting to the point of removing interior panels.
now on to all the other stuff.
while i wait for the new axles i will buy the shocks somewhere.
lpg is next and then a temporary floor fix just so we can go out.
also my upholstery is shot... maybe throw on a couple of futon mattresses till i get new or redone gauchos..
but thats another thread.
i am so grateful to you all.
this definitely a very extended family.

here is arthur as he sits outside my front door today, waiting for a new axle (and more)
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