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Old 11-03-2012, 06:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Bob

I have not opened my roll of lights yet but can you explain a bit more on the lengths that I can cut the rolls down to. Most LEDs have a ballast resistor for a group of LEDs to drop the voltage across the LED or wire the LEDs in series to do this.

Curiosity got the best of me and I opened the roll. Looks like every 3rd. LED is a cutting point. Am I right?
Howie

Without seeing a picture of what your LED strip looks like, I cant say for sure, but on the ones I have been getting it is every 3 emitters and the cut line is clearly marked. Does it look like either of the two versions I have been using?
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #16
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Yes. Same strips as yours.

I will start setting up to cut strips and prewire them is sections to fit the fixtures.

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:17 AM   #17
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I am very interested in changing out to LEDs. This kooks like a great solution.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:32 AM   #18
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I have wired one of the larger fixtures but now have a question. Looking at the tape I question the insulation on the back side of the strips. While the factory coating may be enough for those hole through that are not soldered what about those that I have soldered. The fixtures worked OK. Is it just the paint on the fixture that is the insulation and should I relay on that?

Any idea of the number of sections to replace an 1141 bulb? I am considering relamping the smaller fixtures.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skatiero View Post
I am very interested in changing out to LEDs. This kooks like a great solution.
I agree that this is a great solution. Another option is to change out the incandescent lights to LED SMD light pads. This is what I did in my 66 Tradewind. In each of the 5 overhead light fixtures, I removed the 4-1156 bulbs and installed two 6x6 SMD LED light pads. Here is the link:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f116...ml#post1221666

It is cheap, looks stock, more light than the original, only 10% of the power and 10% of the heat, so it is a no brainer- something that Wally would have done- make only improvements, not changes.

Dan
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
... Most LEDs have a ballast resistor for a group of LEDs to drop the voltage across the LED or wire the LEDs in series to do this. ...
In the series of photos above, you can see R10 between the two LEDs. That's the series "ballast" resistor that adapts the LEDs to 12V.

I do have one suggestion: The 4-position switch on the 70s light fixtures is usually shot. Allowing three brightness levels might have made sense when all those bulbs took so much current, but it seems to me that a bright and dim setting would be enough. You can accomplish this with a simple on-off-on rocker or toggle switch and a single series resistor. (see the incredible reduction in current that still provides background lighting in my Overlander)

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The number of LEDs is a factor in getting the resistor value right. You might have to use a 1/2W resistor if your final current on the dim setting is more than 40 milliamps (yes, that's 0.04 Amps, which seems ridiculous).

Zep
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:04 AM   #21
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I found the rolls of LED's on eBay as well. Sometimes only $6.00 a roll (free shipping) I'm using warm white for some areas, bright white for kitchen, above dining table in my Classic Motorhome.
The moho had florescents everywhere (bedroom window valance as well as bathroom window valance)
Pulled all of the florescent pieces and parts out, and this is what I have so far. Used 10 rows of warm white in other fixtures, going full-bore with these light fixtures since they are for kitchen ceiling and dining table.
As well, if you look, there are rolls of water-proof LED light strips available. Thinking maybe using them on the awning somehow, or below as a night-light.
Yours is looking great!
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:38 PM   #22
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Great thread! Thanks for posting this. My two Thin-Lite flourescents went out about the same time and I was ready to toss them and buy new fixtures - now I hope to do what you did and modify them with these LEDs. I just ordered a warm white strip on ebay for $8.95 with free shipping. I'm always impressed with this forum. What a wealth of information.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #23
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I ordered a couple of rolls off of Amazon...good feedback for the US based vendor, in stock, free shipping....

Then I get my delivery confirmation...USPS from China...30 days...It seems the vendor made a stocking location change and didn't feel a need to mention it anywhere on their info...

I see from the tracking info that it has made it to Chicago...
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
I have wired one of the larger fixtures but now have a question. Looking at the tape I question the insulation on the back side of the strips. While the factory coating may be enough for those hole through that are not soldered what about those that I have soldered. The fixtures worked OK. Is it just the paint on the fixture that is the insulation and should I relay on that?

Any idea of the number of sections to replace an 1141 bulb? I am considering relamping the smaller fixtures.

Thats why I used some heat shrink on the ends over the soldered joints, also helps to stiffen up the connection:


Here is what the light looks like with the diffuser on:



Here are the strips made up to go over the curtain valences up front, these are aluminum stock strips that the leds are attached to:



Still have a few feet left and an unopened roll to play with. Probably going to go on top of the cabinets in the galley to wash the ceiling with light and I'll wire it into the center fixture.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
I found the rolls of LED's on eBay as well. Sometimes only $6.00 a roll (free shipping) I'm using warm white for some areas, bright white for kitchen, above dining table in my Classic Motorhome.
The moho had florescents everywhere (bedroom window valance as well as bathroom window valance)
Pulled all of the florescent pieces and parts out, and this is what I have so far. Used 10 rows of warm white in other fixtures, going full-bore with these light fixtures since they are for kitchen ceiling and dining table.
As well, if you look, there are rolls of water-proof LED light strips available. Thinking maybe using them on the awning somehow, or below as a night-light.
Yours is looking great!
Thanks, Derek
Wow, have you taken any pix of those installed? That has to be brighter than the original setup. How many feet of LED strip for each fixture?
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:49 AM   #26
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wedding supply, Auction items in Citipower Mall store on eBay!

Above is who I used most often for the rolls of LED light strips. But, at times, I would find that the bidding on his items for sale would get out of hand, I would search other sellers for 'buy it now' and last 6 rolls I ordered I got for less than $7 a roll. Of course, I had to wait 3 weeks, but for that price.....
Here is a photo of one of the 'converted' florescent fixtures. I'll snap a pic of how I've got mine wired and post tomorrow.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:18 PM   #27
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Florescent to LED conversion

Ok,
As promised, here are pix of my Florescent to LED conversion. Nothing out of this world concerning wiring. 12V LED, wired directly to my 12V system. Nothing more. Work like a charm, and TONS of light.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:30 PM   #28
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Did a bit of wiring this afternoon and connected up the two strips above the window valences next to the front gaucho. They are wired into two existing little spot lamps on either side of the front window.

Port side:


Starboard side:
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