1157 led bulb conversion

[jerrypike]

After totally removing all the interior skin on my 73 31' land yacht, I removed all the wiring re re place it and the bad connections from the factory.

I took apart the rear taillights and totally cleaned and repainted them along with new pig tails and springs

on each side there are two light housings, one is a single filament 1156 bulb which is a backup light that I've converted to an additional turn/stop
And the other is the original 1157 dual filament tail-stop/turn

My issue is that the tail light porting of the ll57 which I've exchanged for an new led type bulb, wont work when installed in the trailer. If I take the housing out of the trailer and bench test it with a battery it works fine.

I've added grounds, replace ALL the wires from the pigtail RV plug all the way through.

Everything is all new from the truck back.

Im at my wits end

the system works fine with an old school 1157 bulb

if I cut the wire that energizes the turn signal/brake wire the tail light works fine

any ideas?

[xrvr]

Can't help you but I hope someone replies, I'm interested too. Jim

[Phoenix]

Sounds like you may have crossed wires to the tail lights. Not sure about older tail light fixtures, but new tail lights have three wires coming from fixture:

Red = Stop/Turn (+12 VDC)

Black = Running lights (+12 VDC)

White = Chassis ground

I'd use a voltmeter to check the voltages on your wiring. It sounds like you may have the ground wire and one of the positive wires switched.

[Phoenix]

Just an afterthought: Some old travel trailers (not sure about Airstreams) use the trailer ball as the ground return for the running lights and turn signals.

Is your Airstream connected to the tow vehicle (TV)?

If not, you might try running a temporary jumper wire from the bumper of your TV to the frame of your Airstream to see if this corrects the lighting problems. If it does, the problem may go away when you hitch-up. Otherwise, you may need to verify that the chassis grounds on your TV and Airstream are connected, either through the umbilical connector, trailer ball, or a jumper wire.

Update your findings, and others may be able to suggest other things to try.

[B_Pi]

Not sure if this will apply or help at all but on a utility trailer which was being converted to LED lamps we had a lot of trouble getting the lamps to light. It seems, if I recall correctly, that there was a film of some sort over the contacts where the bulb is seated into the socket. When cleaned or removed ( I don't recall which now), the problem was solved.
Other than this, grounding may be the issue.
Good luck.

[Bill Lynch]

Also some LED 'bulbs' won't present enough load for the turn signal/brake light circuitry of the vehicle to work. The vehicle will think there is a burnout or no bulb.

Sometimes you can get load resistors or get the LED bulbs that are designed for this issue.

[Hoosierdaddy]

LED bulbs are sensitive as to which wire is connected to positive or negative. It may be as simple as switching the + and - wires that feed that bulb.

[slpiotro]

In my first tow v, I had to get a resistance extension cord to get the LED trailer lights to work. Found it on line for European type vehicles,y newest tow vehicle doesn't need it,, they fixed the resistant issues.
I suspect you have an issue related to resistance feed back.

[Dan@LED4RV]

Originally Posted by jerrypike

After totally removing all the interior skin on my 73 31' land yacht, I removed all the wiring re re place it and the bad connections from the factory.

I took apart the rear taillights and totally cleaned and repainted them along with new pig tails and springs

on each side there are two light housings, one is a single filament 1156 bulb which is a backup light that I've converted to an additional turn/stop
And the other is the original 1157 dual filament tail-stop/turn

My issue is that the tail light porting of the ll57 which I've exchanged for an new led type bulb, wont work when installed in the trailer. If I take the housing out of the trailer and bench test it with a battery it works fine.

I've added grounds, replace ALL the wires from the pigtail RV plug all the way through.

Everything is all new from the truck back.

Im at my wits end

the system works fine with an old school 1157 bulb

if I cut the wire that energizes the turn signal/brake wire the tail light works fine

any ideas?

I think Phoenix is on the right track.

[InjectorJake]

Run a direct to frame ground, yours is probably bad at the socket

[InjectorJake]

Use a volt meter to check volts at the socket, and switch it to continuity check for ground you should have app 12.5 with tow vehicle running at each hot connection, make sure you don't have the wires backwards, some led will not run backwards or reverse politarty

[InjectorJake]

Show us you completed project, in sequence of you upgrade, sound like a great idea!!!

[Hummer]

When I got my rig I noted as lights failed they were all 1156 bulbs, then a week ago I noticed the outboard lights had 1157 socket so I went to town and got heavy duty 1157 long life bulbs, hooked her to the truck and checked the lights. On 4 way the outer lights would not light in that mode so I put brake on truck and engaged turn signal and went to look, still out boards would not flash.

Then I got to looking and there was a extra wire that appeared to have never been hooked up from new. Only one wire went into socket. I pulled the lens on the other side and it too appeared to have never been used which got me to thinking if separate brake lights were considered OK or was dual brake lights the desired effect.

For instance I am told my 2500 HD has a wiring harness and it is pre wired for a compass equipped rear view mirror but it did not come with one. It was explained it was cheaper to have one wiring harness for all which makes sense.

Does anyone know for sure?

[Zil]

Some place in this thread you may already have the answer. but here goes anyway. LED flashing bulbs need a electronic flasher unit. They will not work with the standard unit.

[leroy]

Interesting - I did not read any of this before I started a wholesale LED replacement on my 92' 250 Moho yesterday...but guess why I am here now

I had similar but not identical results as described above. In the Moho I have 12 light fixtures that provide directional and flashing functionality (blinkers). two in the front, six on the sides and four in the back ( I have about 12 other fixtures (head lights and running lights) that only come on with the light switch. The blinkers were a mixture of 1157's (front and rear) and 194 (side markers) - all available as LEDs.

Now, at least in my case, it gets interesting. ALL 12 'blinkers' worked out of the box - i tested left turn, right turn, flashers and all tested fine. That is until I turned on the light switch. Once the lights are turned on the blinking no longer worked - but, note, the 'light' portion did work - you just didn't see any blinking?!?

I took a sample 1157 bulb and 1157 LED to the bench and they both tested fine...I even cycled thru quickly powering them on and off - I checked continuity and on the bulb it was as expected but the LED indicated an open circuit ? I assume there is some circuitry in there and I will disassemble the LED when I have time - but I suspected that this fact might have something to do with the problem.

I swapped all four rear 1157 LED's back to the bulbs...and re-ran my test...and everything started to work again. Even the 2x 1157 LEDs in the front worked properly i.e. they stayed illuminated and you could clearly see the blinking - even though the same LEDs are involved in both ( The bulb 1157 have two separate filaments) ?!?

So that is how I left it yesterday - I need to look into this 'electronic' flasher doohickey - anyone got a part number to suggest.

Thanks

Leroy