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04-20-2017, 04:35 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Wet bath removal for International CCD 22'
We've just purchased our first AS, a 22' International CCD with a back corner bathroom. The floor has significant rot in the back under the desk, and chances are the floor under the wet bath is just as bad. Looking for advice on how to remove the bathroom which appears to be molded fiberglass. The panels seem to be held on with fiberglass rivets. Or perhaps, stainless rivets with caps? Thanks in advance for your help.
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04-20-2017, 05:13 PM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
2003 22' International CCD
East Durham
, New York
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 126
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Wet Bath
Sounds like you have the dreaded rear bumper leak. I've had mine fixed twice. Once by Airstream and the next by someone who did the job correctly.
They had to remove the bath, desk, etc and replace floor. Not a fun or inexpensive job. At least a few thousand $.
Good luck. It's still a great model.
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04-20-2017, 05:20 PM
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#3
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Site Team
2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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Wet bath removal for International CCD 22'
Uh boy.
I had to deal with water damage that caused the removal of my corner shower / bath as well in my 2008 25' SS. There are a few threads on the forum about the dreaded rear bumper leak in pre-2012 trailers....
Here are 2 of them:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ge-152464.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ed-155995.html
All the damage in my trailer was confirmed to be from the rear bumper where there was a gap in the shell that allowed water to ingress / get absorbed by the subfloor.
Shower was water tight.
7 years of accumulated water damage from the rear bumper / shell seam caused the floor to be rotted out.
$6,000 repair to have it fixed right ....
(all interior at rear of trailer including bed / shower top and bottom / plumbing was removed / reinstalled, removed / reinstalled toilet / black water tank / more plumbing, removed and replaced some interior skin to ensure root cause was correctly diagnosed, removed rotted sub floor and re-installed to include new water proofing around edges, removed / reinstalled belly pan to replace insulation, remove / replace lower exterior trim and seal up the freaking GAP on the outer shell, etc. etc... lots of labor.... and that didn't include the cost of new flooring
I had my repair done at Timeless travel trailers in Denver, they have always been fair with me regarding labor costs and do quality work, so although the cost was still high to outsource the repair, I feel that the problem in my trailer was correctly addressed by professionals who care about their customers
For what it is worth Timeless told me that removal of the fiberglass shower is very tricky, and most of the time it cracks when they are being extracted, and to be prepared to replace that too at a cost of ~$2000 for a new complete shower enclosure shipped from airstream... that being said that got mine out and back in without damage.
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04-21-2017, 04:28 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
1957 26' Overlander
Plymouth
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 554
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Are you planning on doing the work yourself? I have a 2006 22' CCD and I did mine a couple of years ago. Removing the bathroom was slow but it did come out. And yes it went back in.
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04-22-2017, 09:52 AM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Hi Brad,
Thanks for your reply. Yes, we are going to do this ourselves. About to start the process today. Can you tell me about the little caps on the rivets that hold the bathroom together? What are these called and where do you get them?
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04-22-2017, 09:56 AM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Thanks for all of this good info wulfraat. We used a moisture meter and found that the entire exterior floor is wet (we haven't been able to check under the bathroom and kitchen area yet). Looks like we're going to gut the whole thing.
I'm wondering what the criss crossed yellow tape is in your photo.
In terms of what to do first when gutting an airstream, is there a checklist that you know of?
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04-22-2017, 10:03 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Thanks for your input bluvalley. We're researching alternative flooring composite materials now. Found a few and plan to talk to the manufacturers next week. I'll post what we find. Read NyloBoard is great, but the company is being sold. Komacel looks promising. If anyone has any experience with anything absolutely waterproof and light(ish)weight we'd love to hear it.
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04-22-2017, 11:06 AM
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#8
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Site Team
2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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Hey there - the yellow tape was just to mark off the area so other folks in the shop stayed out of back and off the new floors that were going down.
On flooring - we had Bamboo hardwoods installed in our trailer. They are awesome. Product is called "Plyboo". It's a bamboo plywood with alternating grains to eliminate expansion / contraction issues. Very hard surface. Works great. Our trailer as been between +100 degrees and -20 degrees with no issues on boards moving. Glue and stapled to the subfloor.
No advice on gutting but there are a lot of resources on the forum I'm sure.
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04-22-2017, 02:08 PM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
1986 25' Sovereign
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 282
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Salomet, Komacel you refer to is waterproof but it is pvc material. When cold it will break/shatter and if it get warm enough it will warp and sag. They looked at a compound that would work for rv use but the last I heard they gave up on it.
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04-22-2017, 07:10 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
1957 26' Overlander
Plymouth
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 554
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The little white caps are screw covers. At least they were in my trailer. Pop the top off and you will see a Phillips head screw.
Any caulking you see must be removed or at least cut so that you can separate the pieces. Go slow, be patient and say nice things to anyone that helps.
And good luck
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04-23-2017, 08:42 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Wow, good to know! Thanks for your help Streamracer.
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04-23-2017, 10:10 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Following with interest. Have the same AS, which will eventually have the same issue, knowing my luck.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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04-23-2017, 03:46 PM
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#13
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Site Team
2017 30' International
Broomfield
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,555
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It's a big repair. But worth the investment of time / labor and / or $$
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04-23-2017, 05:44 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
1986 25' Sovereign
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 282
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Dicor has a new composite floor they designed for slide out rooms. Says completely waterproof. Weighs 1/2 of what plywood weighs. 1 lb per Sq ft. Probably a good price also.
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04-25-2017, 07:33 AM
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#15
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Thanks! I'll look into it and report back to the thread.
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04-25-2017, 07:35 AM
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#16
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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We're taking lots of photos, making notes and discovering lots of "surprises" as to how the trailer is put together. Its fun, if you enjoy the process of this sort of thing. I'll start posting details later in the week.
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05-04-2017, 11:19 AM
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#17
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1 Rivet Member
2004 22' International CCD
Sunset Valley
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Update on the research
We're currently talking to Kommerling, manufacturer of Komacel Plus, one of the many subfloor solution panels we're researching. So far the rep claims the panels have "issues over 140 degrees and cold will affect it too". When questioned what those "issues" are, she couldn't elaborate. With each round of questions she checks with someone else and reports back. We've submitted a few more questions she has yet to answer.
In the meantime we dug up the KomaCel brochure, TechValues spec sheet and the entire third party testing report. Neither of us are structural engineers, but what we've gleaned so far is that over a 22' length, (slightly more than our actual floor structure) at 120 degrees F the floor would expand 1.25" lengthwise introducing a whole new issue. I imagine most materials have similar expansion rates, except perhaps honeycomb aluminum panels (but they have their own issues so we dropped that option).
Streamracer, can you elaborate on the temperature issues and where you found this info? (Have you yourself used it?)
I'll see if I can upload the testing data. If anyone out there can decipher it, your efforts would be greatly appreciated!
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05-05-2017, 05:17 AM
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#18
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4 Rivet Member
1986 25' Sovereign
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 282
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Like I said before, Komacel is pvc and when cold it gets very brittle and will chip/shatter if hit or dropped. On the other hand when it gets hot it will warp and sag. They sell some thermo pads that contractors use to,heat it to bend it around forms. It will get like spagetti and you can tie it in knots. I've got a dog house I made and the roof is very wavy from the sun. Call and ask for Tech Services, and talk to Jim.
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12-03-2017, 02:46 PM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
2017 22' Sport
Salisbury
, Maryland
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 38
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I have the same problem. I have a hole in the sub floor under my bathroom sink... were does the water come from in the storage compartment?
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06-26-2022, 11:57 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
2018 30' International
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 97
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PortAngeles-6/22 I brought home a, 2003 22 ft CCD
It is now 2022, and there are,still some of us who can see,h the beauty in a fixer of an Airstream. But the budget,is limited. Yikes, getting bedding, drapes, someone's "remodel" out of the trailer, I see water damage stains in the back under the desk/furnace cabinet. NUTS. Then I read about the GAP in tje rear that allows water to just fly up while in motion, and the poor subfloor material that Airstream used for a few years.
Foolish recent widow has a task- take people's advice who have these and get it repaired or pass it on down the line. I can not let someone else buy this as it is. There is no dinette, as someone just wanted a full time 2nd bed. So they made plywood top opening boxes. One for all electrical and one for the necessary cords, hoses, etc. I pulled out the storage box. I am Not even going to touch electrical. Virtually no other storage in this thing. But I have a,long bed truck! However, a great design.
Does anyone recommend a reasonably priced company in the Seattle area to complete,the gutting of the back end? I can attempt a,very careful removal of the sealant in the wet bath, but I will not try to remove the bath unit myself. I do not want to take it to the dealer.
Thanks
Olympic Peninsula
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