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Old 04-13-2009, 06:34 PM   #1
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Toilet Flange on the 88

I am replacing the toilet in my 88 from the old plastic to a new Sealand. The problem is the flange holes are set so that they don't line up with the new Sealand, they are at a weird angle and not square across the floor line. If you would install the new Sealand with the current placement of the flange the toilet would be turned towards the door and not face straight towards the shower. I have tried to move the flange but it will not budge. Is this screwed into the tank, glued or just sitting there and I need to more a-- behind it to move it? Is there a way to adjust the flange so that I can get the screws to line up or an adaptor to get?

Thanks in advance for telling me what I should know!!!
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:37 PM   #2
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Add a Flange

Can I add another flange and it still work?
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:03 PM   #3
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As you look down on the flange, does it appear to be one solid piece or does it have an inner and outer flange separated by a seam? If it is a two piece, the outer part should rotate and allow you to move the slots to align the potty. Perhaps it is held down by a screw or two or is just tight. The inner part of the flange or the whole flange (if it is a one piece) is likely screwed into the tank. You may see some small notches at the inside of the flange. A hammer and a punch may move it. You may have to fabricate a tool to grip and turn it. It should come off counter clockwise as you look down on it. It's highly unlikely that it is glued.

When I installed my new sealand, I had to unscrew the flange, add 2 additional notches to accomodate the 4 bolts, then screw the flange back on and align the notches. The rubber gasket that comes with the sealand is all you need for a good seal. It took patience and bravery for me to get the flange off, but it did screw off. Good luck.
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:58 AM   #4
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Ed,
We have an '87 and the closet flange was the threaded type. All I had to do was remove a couple of countersunk wood screws from the flang and unscrew it. It took a little leverage to get it unscrewed. You can read about how I made a spanner wrench from a scrap piece of 2 X 4 and the key bolts that hold the toilet to the closet flange here in post #35...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f461...ter-41785.html

Like Archimedes said..."Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."

PS - I determined that ours was threaded by cleaning the tank REALLY well, donning a pair of surgical gloves, and I could feel the threads on the closet flange as it extended past the tank opening on the inside.
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:17 PM   #5
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Going to give it a try

I just went out at lunch and picked up some new key bolts to use as part of the spanner wrench, so if they bend I still have the new ones that go with the new toilet. I will give this a try tonight and report back.
Thanks for all the info!
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Emerick View Post
I just went out at lunch and picked up some new key bolts to use as part of the spanner wrench, so if they bend I still have the new ones that go with the new toilet. I will give this a try tonight and report back.
Thanks for all the info!
Ed
Ed,
Be sure to give the underside a feel to make sure you have the threaded closet flange. I would hate to see you apply leverage only to have you discover that you have a flange that was glued / cemented into the black tank and break the flange, the tank, or both.

Take a look at this thread too...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...nge-45782.html
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:26 PM   #7
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On my 86 I just rotated the whole flange counter clockwise the same way as post#4 until the key bolt slots lined up for the Sealand. Totally painless.

mike
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:45 PM   #8
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Easy??

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Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
On my 86 I just rotated the whole flange counter clockwise the same way as post#4 until the key bolt slots lined up for the Sealand. Totally painless.

mike

Did it turn easy? I have tried to tap it with a hammer to get it to move but it did not. I have removed the wood screws that go through the flange to the floor.
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:53 PM   #9
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Did it turn easy? I have tried to tap it with a hammer to get it to move but it did not. I have removed the wood screws that go through the flange to the floor.
Ed,
I whacked mine with a hammer and it would not budge, but once I applied the homemade spanner wrench it came out very easily.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:01 PM   #10
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I put the two key bolts in place and then used a 3' length of scrap 1x1 to turn the flange by wedging it between the two bolts to use as a lever. It was stiff but it did turn (slowly).

I would not whack it with anything -- a steady strain is mo' better

mike
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:45 PM   #11
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Its In!!!!!

n2916s, DEITZ645, georgezink you guys rock!

I was able to use the info you guys provided and was able to move the flange enough to seat the new toilet.

God I love this list!!!!!


Thanks guys, I now can follow life rule number 5, "Life is too short to poop in a dirty potty."

Ed
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:47 PM   #12
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Yes!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
On my 86 I just rotated the whole flange counter clockwise the same way as post#4 until the key bolt slots lined up for the Sealand. Totally painless.

mike
Painless is the word of the day!
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:49 PM   #13
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yuck

Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645 View Post
Ed,
Be sure to give the underside a feel to make sure you have the threaded closet flange.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...nge-45782.html
Gloved hands I feel around, can't tell so the gloves come off and the raw finger in the tank tell me there are threads there.


Time to move the flange.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:51 PM   #14
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One!

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Originally Posted by georgezink View Post
As you look down on the flange, does it appear to be one solid piece or does it have an inner and outer flange separated by a seam? I Good luck.
When I saw no seam I knew I was in luck.
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