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Old 12-14-2008, 04:28 PM   #1
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Toilet and Floor replacement, need photos

Ok after hours of reading threads, I have not found EXACTLY what I need.

My Aqua-Magic Galaxy leaks a small bit. It takes several days to make the carpet wet. I removed the whole thing and thought I had fixed it....but NOT! I have decided to replace with a NEW toilet. But while under there, I noticed that the flange was not solid to the floor and that the screws that hold it in place were rusted and were no longer tight.....wood decayed around the screw holes. I think I need to replace the floor under the toilet.

Never having done this, I was hoping to see (photos) of exactly the best way to do it. One thought I had was to simply lay a 1/2 inch piece of marine plywood over the original plywood, cut the hole to match and fasten with screws and seal to the original floor and then mount the flange on the new plywood. The toilet would be 1/2 inch higher but that would be ok. However I was concerned that the sleeve from the metal flange down into the fiberglass tank would not be long enough to prevent leakage.

Any advice would be appreciated. Bill
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:45 PM   #2
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Bill, you can get a new closet flange that is all plastic, so you don't have to deal with rusted metal collars. They usually run about $6-9. You just unthread the old one (it will take some effort--it's been there for decades), and thread the new one in its place.
Now, for the floor...
If it's really bad, it will need to be replaced. If not, maybe the new closet flange will have screw mount holes in slightly different spots, and that, coupled with some slightly longer mounting screws, will allow you to use Rot Doctor to firm up the floor under the toilet. Just make sure the screws are not so long they penetrate the top of the black tank. Ask me how I know not to do this...
When we finished doing this to our Sovereign last year, I got a Thetford Style china bowl toilet. It's worked flawlessly since, though I did have to make several trips to Ace Hardware to get the correct connectors to make the original plumbing fit the replacement toilet.
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:01 PM   #3
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Flange not rusted

Thanks Terry,

The metal flange is in good shape, even after 32 years...it still has the original red enamel paint, not pealing....it was just the screws that were rusted. I will use larger and a little longer SS screws when I replace them.

I understand that the flange has a sleeve that screws down into the black tank....is that correct....and do you know how long it is? For my plywood overlay idea to work, it would have to be at least 1 1/2 inches deep. Bill
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:13 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by lebolewis View Post
Thanks Terry,

The metal flange is in good shape, even after 32 years...it still has the original red enamel paint, not pealing....it was just the screws that were rusted. I will use larger and a little longer SS screws when I replace them.

I understand that the flange has a sleeve that screws down into the black tank....is that correct....and do you know how long it is? For my plywood overlay idea to work, it would have to be at least 1 1/2 inches deep. Bill
Thread depth is 1/2". I measured twice. Total depth, from top of floor to bottom of threads, is 1 1/2". For your overlay idea to work, you would need to find one that is at least 1/2" more depth than stock, or 2" total depth, top of floor to bottom of threads.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:10 PM   #5
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Thead depth

Terry,

Are closet flanges available with different sleeve depths (threads). If yes, where do I look? Bill
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:49 AM   #6
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Terry,

Are closet flanges available with different sleeve depths (threads). If yes, where do I look? Bill
Bill, as far as I know, there is only the one depth. Almost any RV supply place will have them, including Inland RV (shameless plug).
So, if you have to build up your floor, you will need to get creative in order to reach the plumbing. AS far as I can remember, they generally all screw into the top of the black tank. I would advise against trying to force the closet flange to screw into the top of the black tank, if you can get it started. It will probably cause the top of the tank to crack from the strain of being held up while full.
Here's a link to the "new" flange:
Keystone RV Center Online Store
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