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Old 08-06-2012, 02:11 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by keithgrowe View Post
A quick question about pix. Instead of using the crimping tool, could you use stainless steel hose clamps on all of the connections? The advantage would be ease of installation and you could take it back apart for repairs.
I've used hose clamps on PEX as a temporary fix that I wanted to remove when parts arrived. I used two clamps on a single fitting and tightened them with a wrench to get as tight as I could. It still leaked, but it was good enough for a week or two, with a drip pan below the connections. Definitely wouldn't use them for a permanent connection.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:59 PM   #58
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Ive used copper and CPVC in the past. Used pex last year for the first time and will never use anything else.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:00 PM   #59
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I recently removed the original rat's nest of copper supply lines from my 74 tradewind land yact and replaced the entire system with PEX using all crimp fittings. I was reluctant to use slip-on or friction fittings in a trailer where the components are moving around a lot. They may have been ok but in my experience trailers are notorious for loosening things up over time if they are not secured very well. One of the things I did differently from the original/factory plumbing is to use shutoff valves at all fixtures. This way, I can simply shut off a valve if a fixture is damaged or leaking and still have water to the rest of the fixtures. The valves I used actually had PEX fittings on the inlet side making them very easy to install. When I travel I plan to bring my crimping tool, crimp rings and a few assorted fittings just in case I need to make a quick repair. I much prefer this method to what is needed for making copper repairs, especially in tight quarters.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:27 PM   #60
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Yea, sweating copper under a sink or in a tight corner sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:35 AM   #61
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Does someone have recommendations for a reasonably priced crimp tool available online?
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:43 AM   #62
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Why not use Sharkbite fittings?

Unless space prohibits, you're miles ahead in terms of ease of use, and potentially less expensive.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:47 AM   #63
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I have seen some cheaper versions a lowes.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:31 AM   #64
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Something new for me

I have used copper, Shark Bite (never had a problem with vibration leaks) and PEX. This time I am going to try....Sea Tech PEX Fittings VTS. It is available elsewhere too. Lets see how that goes.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:54 AM   #65
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I picked my crimper up at Menards for around $90 does both 1/2 nad 3/4. While we are talking about pex I was thinking of useing it for in floor heating in the camper. I can't seem to find any posts where someone has done this.

Bob
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:57 AM   #66
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How would you hook it up? To the hot water heater? Or would you have a separate unit?
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:56 PM   #67
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I didnt read all 5 pages but Ill throw in my opinion.

I had to plumb in my bathroom and kitchen, including water heater in my AS. My Dad said to use Pex since it was so simple. I went to the local hardware store and checked out Pex. The tubing itself is super affordable, about $.60 a foot. But the fittings are ridiculous! $8 per "T". I would have had $50 sunk in Ts alone! Thats not including 90s or any other fittings. I looked at CPVC and couldnt believe the cost difference. I had about $50 invested in EVERYTHING I needed to plumb my entire AS with CPVC. Yes, it was more work, but the cost difference made it a no brainer. Making a fix is as easy as cutting the pipe and pumbing in new at something like $.30 a fitting
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:59 AM   #68
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I went with CPVC as well. Cost, ease of use, no tools to buy, and no learning curve on a new product. I live in Fl so there very few times when it could get cold enough to freeze covered pipes. It sounds like pex ability to handle freezing this is its greatest strength. Oh yea cost.. Did I mention cost?
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:48 AM   #69
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I was with the Sharkbite rep yesterday

Quote:
Originally Posted by keithgrowe View Post
How would you hook it up? To the hot water heater? Or would you have a separate unit?
He was showing a P&H distributor the new water heater flex connections they have come up with. One thing in the SB. The distributor asked if SB was approved for soft copper. Factory response was due to the inconsistent dimensions of soft copper the SB product is not good for soft copper.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #70
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I was thinking and on demand water heater and also trying to look at solar options.
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