I would like to install some tile in my center bath. I'm looking at using a 1/4" backer and a 3/8 tile, that means that my toilet would be 5/8 higher than now. Can i get a taller gasket ?
Is it ok to go over the lip at the vanity wall? do i have to remove that wall if i need to change the water heater in the future?
I removed the Thetford Aqua. The old flange has a crack at the rear bolt position. A P/O had a combination of screws holding this flange down. After some research i have found a Toilet riser that should work with the Aqua but am more interested in going with a Sealand. I will try to post some pics in the near future.
I'm a little concerned about your tile proposal.
1. Your backer board needs to be mounted on the subfloor with thinset - add 1/8 inch.
2. Your tile needs to be adhered to the backerboard with mastic - add another 1/8 inch.
3. Even without discussing the problem of floor flexing while motoring down the road, I would think the existing subfloor might be a little to flimsy to make a good base for tilework. I would like to use 3/4 inch subfloor even if it was a residential installation.
It's not something I would do.
But heck, it's your trailer and I would love to hear more about it.
I'm considering Hardi backer glued and srewed. Leaving space around the drain and vent pipe so they can move. Keeping the backer about a 1/4" short around the perimiter. Laying 1/4" + thick tumpled marble 4"x 4". using epoxy grout except for around the pipes and the perimiter where i would use a silicone based caulk.
This is a center bath unit so we are talking about a very small area 2' by 3'1/2 " maybe.
What other suggestions are there? i want to use real tile if i can and had even considered using lexel to glue the backer down. It will not harden all the way and keep some flex.
Are you using the new hardi backer with the embossed grid? I bought some a few weeks ago. Went back to HD today and the hardi backer rep was there doing demos. He gave me a free carbide scoring tool! I thought that was pretty nice.
I think using 4x4 tiles is a good idea. I wouldn't want to use larger ones due to cracking potential.
Yes, to the Hardi
I still have a hard time finding a Toilet flange that is about 1" longer than the old one. Does anybody have any idears? I tried using a female threat with a double male coupler but now i'm to tall.
When I re-did my bath last month, i went to an RV parts store to buy the flanges etc. for the new Sea-Land toilet.
They had parts that were very diffeent from the HD variety. Among other treasures, they had toilet flanges with longer threaded necks. Their longest one would have added about 2 inches to the flange height. The prices were much higher than HD, but they had the RV specific stuff.
I paid $ 9.00 for a new toilet flange, but it fit like a glove.
I suggest trying an RV specific place.
Bolt pattern is the same as residential. Local RV center didn't have what i was looking for, found the flange at a plumming store.Hope to have tile in by tomorrow evening.
Let us know how it goes!
I've got the same problem, but in reverse. I'm redoing the guest bath, and the flange is about 5/8" too high. I removed 1 1/2" of concrete base and am replacing it with backerboard, heater wire, and 3/8" floor tile, total about 7/8" including thinset. Fortunately, the toilet wax ring recess is about 1/2" deep, so I think I'll be ok, if I get generous with the mortar. I'd hate to have to redo the flange, it's 4" cast iron with lead joints.
Its done, well almost. Tile is installed, new Bravada Toilet is in, tested for leaks and found none. All thats left is caulking around the edges. I will report on how well the tile holds up. As soon as i have figured out how to post some pic's i will do so.
Felix
Quick Links
Linear Mode
