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Old 04-20-2007, 07:55 PM   #15
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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Can you suggest a good product?

Can you give us a pointer to a quality check valve of the type that you mentioned? If any of us are going to use one we might as well start with a quality one.



Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:51 AM   #16
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Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
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Camco................ the one that I've found to be all metal and the best so far. They are an RV products company, so you should be able to get them at your local RV supply place. Let me know if you can't find them. The ones I stock are all 1/2", and work well for just about all RV uses.

Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:55 PM   #17
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1957 26' Overlander
sandstone , Minnesota
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I have been thinking about using a pump, also. Then my gray water tank could sit under one of the twin beds in our 57 Airstream Overlander. Both sinks are high enough that gravity would take care of them. I think that a simple 12v pump (that can run dry), with a switch near the shower would work fine. The small pump could be situated just below the drain. As another poster said, one would want an alternative method for letting the water go out. It is a problem..for sure. Not enough room inside the framework under the shower. Let us know how it works if you do it.
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:22 PM   #18
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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Check out this pump that was recomended to me by Boatdoc. When you get to this website go to page 17 of the catalog. Also notice on the same page that there is a "Grey Water Tank" that is a companion product.

I found it for sale at the following website for $186.96. I am sure that there are other marine supply places where it would be available as well. I did not find the Grey Water Tank at this site though so I do not know how much it would cost.

Fisheries Supply Search: Viking%252016

While the pump is a bit pricey it sounds like it would be ideal for the purpose. It would be very unlikely to get clogged up with hair from a shower for example. If you want just an on/off switch I think this pump could be hooked directly to the pipes. If you look on page 16 of the Johnson Pump catalog you will see a somewhat higher capacity pump that has an interesting feature - namely a manual crank handle. That could be a way to solve the problem if the power is out.


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Old 08-21-2011, 07:08 AM   #19
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1968 30' Sovereign
Baltimore , Maryland
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Malcom, I have installed a radiant system on my house, and it is my opinion that the manufacturer is wrong. I have never heard of a tankless heater that requires pressure to operate. Just think about it, the original intent is to heat hot water for normal user (shower etc). In this normal use, the faucet is open and the water pressure goes to almost nothing and the water exits the system. It's always flow that triggers a tankless unit. I think your unit may be defective. Just my opinion.

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