Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-15-2013, 10:14 PM   #15
1 Rivet Member
2014 25' Flying Cloud
Colorado Springs , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 5
Same thing happened to our 2014 25' Flying Cloud. We have it scheduled for warranty repair the first week in November. My concern is that this is a design flaw which will require repeated visits to the dealer for repair.

Losman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2013, 06:59 AM   #16
3 Rivet Member
gtc6452's Avatar
2015 27' Flying Cloud
2011 30' International
mooresburg , Tennessee
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 206
Images: 6
mine was fixed once and has been fine for over a year.

gtc6452 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 10:01 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2009 19' International
Aptos , California
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 77
Images: 1
Shower door suspension is a design flaw

Apparently, the shower door in many late model Airstreams starting with at least 2010 when I got mine, has a design flaw that causes it to drop slightly in it's frame, causing the metal bottom edge of the shower door frame to come in contact with the metal flange on the bottom of the shower door surround. It's a design flaw, all right. And you are likely to put in several service visits over the issue.

Dealerships know about this problem and know a fairly easy fix that they can charge off to warranty repair and get reimbursed from Airstream for doing. Unfortunately, this fix rarely lasts, especially if the Airstream in question is ever taken over semi rough terrain. A brief section of washboard, for instance, will cause the problem to reappear. So will a speed bump taken at the wrong speed. Or not. It depends. In my case, it keeps happening.

The fix consists of installing a small piece of plastic tubing in the space between the top of the metal frame of the shower door (just below a tantalizing, but unrelated, Phillips head screw into the top of the assembly), and the stall-side metal door support/hinge structure. The space is only seen on when the door is gently lifted to the top of it's track. It's a gap of only about 3/16 to 1/4. (And you can see i--or actually, you can see where it ought to be--in one of the excellent photos posted earlier in the thread) The piece of plastic tubing is cut through, and the cut allows you to press it onto and almost around the support pin of the hinge. That same cut makes it easy for the slightest jar to dislodge it. So the fix only lasts a little while, which everyone knows about, which makes it kind of a scam. Unless you can get the repair tech to show you how they're "fixing" it, and explain to you why their new variation on the above (and there has to be a better variation) will actually work when you put some real miles on your rig.

I would be so stoked if some smart tech would school me with a better fix.
brad1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2014, 11:19 PM   #18
Rivet Master
Foiled Again's Avatar

2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,677
My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge. I used to use one of those over the cabinet door towel bars on the shower door - the weight of a big bath sheet on a cheap hinge?

The real solution is probably higher quality replacement hinges - but the shower curtain idea has a lot of merit especially if you think of "I've fallen and I can't get up." The door is safety glass. But a strong cloth shower curtain over a really sturdy rod might be something to grab to prevent a slip and fall.

Lots of stuff like this is routine maintenance even in a house. They really don't make most stuff the way they used to. I keep a supply of "rubber a$$holes" for the stovetop because I do remove the grids and clean the top regularly and I swear something in the Airstream periodically eats one of the things. The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too. Fulltiming - latches come unscrewed, and the screw holes get loose. Toothpicks and Elmer's glue and you're good to go.

Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
Foiled Again is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2014, 03:23 AM   #19
Figment of My Imagination
Protagonist's Avatar
2012 Interstate Coach
Metairie , Louisiana
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 9,085
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
The dark floor on the EB makes them just disappear too.
A contact-lens wearer taught me the trick for finding small hard-to-see items on a floor. Get a powerful flashlight, turn it on, and lay it on the floor. Even small items will cast a long shadow, and you just have to find where the shadow begins to find the item.
WBCCI #1105

Engineering: Finding complex solutions to simple problems you didn't even know you had.
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 05:52 PM   #20
2 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
2009 19' International
Aptos , California
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 77
Images: 1
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
My FC had the same issue, and I kinda expect it to appear on the new EB. I'm thinking that there may be a plastic split washer that could be inserted around the hinge pin, top and bottom to raise the door on the hinge.

You're going to love this solution. Like most guys with a clear problem that lacks a clear solution, I went trolling through the isles of the closest hardware store. In this case, it was a home depot. I picked up a 1/2" dowel, thinking I could cut a chunk to slip in under the door at the corner of the surround and the hinge plate. I picked up some copper crimp flanges that looked like one or another might fit and do the job. And almost on a whim, I picked up a package of three slim, round magnets.

I tried the magnets first. Even though I think the metal of the shower door surround and door frame assemblies are aluminum, the magnets worked their way back into the space below the hinge assembly. Unfortunately, they were a little to slim, even all three together, to support the door. But they had come in packaging that included a square piece of mallable but magnetic material, designed, I suppose, to make the three look bigger in their blister pack. I snipped off a piece of that material, slipped it under the three magnetsa and pushed the whole stack back into the corner where they nested with magnetic attraction, perfectly raising the door so that the lower edge no longer interferes with the lower edge of the surround.

They may squirt out on a bumpy road some day, but at least they'll hang together to make finding easier.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1254.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	262.3 KB
ID:	208338
brad1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 06:42 PM   #21
Rivet Master
BAB's Avatar

2015 30' Classic
2012 28' International
Greensboro , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,508
Also have a 2012. Same issue. Shower slipped down...and after researching on here, I decided to explore the issue. Essentially, the entire shower is suspended from the top by a very inadequate "pot metal" screw that is on the inside of the very top assembly. Mine had actually sheared off, and I could see no way of repairing it. Solution? I ripped the entire cheap shower door, its frame and the bottom sill out. I replaced it with a Sterling (Kohler) shower that I bought at Lowes. It took a couple of hours to install it, but this one has much sturdier construction and has two pivots rather than a piano hinge. I've decided that instead of trying to constantly repair and do "work-arounds" I'm better off to do it right the first time. (Incidentally, there are a number of threads on this in different places, but it's exactly the same issue....and when I'm at JC next, I plan to bring this one up as it is definitely a QC issue.) Here's a photo of the new shower door.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1305.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	263.5 KB
ID:	208340  
"SilverLeaf II" 2015 30' Classic
2014 RAM 2500 Laramie 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins
ProPride 3P
AIR# 58452
WBCCI # 3430-Unit 21
BAB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2014, 07:07 PM   #22
Rivet Master
SteveSueMac's Avatar

2012 27' Flying Cloud
W , New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,675
Hmm - I have a 2012 - no problem yet with shower door. But I'm thinking the shower curtain is a good idea, especially if you use one with the rod that swings out to give extra room in the shower. But the door looks good. Wondering if I should do something to prepare of the inevitable. Hmmm....
SteveSueMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2014, 07:10 PM   #23
1 Rivet Member
2005 28' Safari
Sycamore , Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 10
I've had problems with the shower door on our 2005 Safari for years. We tried shims, various cuss words and shouting at the sky. Nothing worked (at least for very long). The problem is that the door is pivot-based rather than a full hinge.

The solution was to completely replace the door, a task I had some reservations about. A trip to the local Lowe's and consultation with a super-helpful plumbing guy got us the solution: a full-hinge shower door (polished nickel with a raindrop glass pattern) from the Arizona Shower Door Company. About $400 and (since it was a special order because of the size) three weeks. It took my wife and I about two hours to install the door -- which was actually pretty simple. The shower door's latch is a pretty strong magnet, but we retained the latch from the factory door and installed it on the new door with no problem.
2ColliesCan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 10:43 AM   #24
1 Rivet Member
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Oakland , California
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 5
Just curious, as we are experiencing the same issue, were you able to find the necessary size in stock at Lowe's?
friedablue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 11:02 AM   #25
Prairie Schooner II
Jim Flower's Avatar

2012 30' International
1997 25' Safari
1967 20' Globetrotter
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,139
The shower door on my 2012 Signature collapsed within the first week of operation. I called JC but they said they never heard of such a problem. I rummaged around the garage and found an old plastic nut left over from a toilet seat repair and stuffed it under the door. It worked just fine until Can Am replaced the door about 10 months later under warranty with a new design from JC. Original design is a real nasty piece of junk. I feel better now. Jim

Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

Jim Flower is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:19 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.