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Old 11-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
2010 22' Sport
Carver , Massachusetts
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 35
Shower caulking and door questions


I've got a 2010 22' sport model, and for the two off seasons I had a warranty I've taken it to the local dealer to have some caulk joints that have failed repaired, and both times it had failed again by the following fall. With no more warranty, I've stripped out the existing caulk to do it myself, and hopefully do it right this time. What I've found is that I've got a mix of products used on the joints with what seems to be a silicone product over a different product at the repair sites, and the ones that have been giving me problems have larger gaps that were sealed with no backer of any type. Now I'm thinking this issue is caused by the size of the gaps, rather than just a fact of life when having the flex inherent in these joints on a trailer and subjecting it to New England winters.

This leads me to a number of questions that I've got to hopefully fix this once and for all.

1. Most of the joints have held good with no repairs needed to date. After stripping the caulk, I find that these were the small joints. What is the material Airstream used at the factory as this held up well, or something even better if available?

2. Before placing any new caulk, I've got to finish removing all the residue. Anyone got any recommendations for simplifying this task, be it a solvent of some type or any tricks to save the elbow grease required?

3. For the larger joints that need to be sealed, any recommendations for how to close the gap, perhaps some type of rubber strip I can place in the gap before sealing so the caulk isn't bridging as big a gap? The biggest gaps are in the 1/4"-3/8" ballpark.

4. I've got the cloth accordion shower door that I've never been a big fan of. I pulled the door to aid in removing the caulk, and while it is out would like to put something else in if possible. The reasons I don't like this door are because of the reduction in width of the already small door opening, and the plastic track on the bottom that I keep damaging, I hit my head on the top track getting out and inadvertently step on it. I found that the shower pan doesn't go over the piece of wood facing into the bathroom, rather there is a piece of plywood that extends 1/4" or so above the shower pan, so this doesn't seem to be something that I can just leave out the door in favor of a curtain or anything like that. What have others done who may have removed a similar shower door?



etobolski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 08:18 AM   #2

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,346
Images: 1

On your #3 concern....

Any pic's? Not sure of the type door you have.

I did have to repair our door. The complete door frame came loose from the wall. I repaired it with a mixture of Marine resin and sawdust. I used lengths of 2"x2's, wedged in the frame to hold in place while drying. A 24" length of 1/4 round molding at the base for added support. This was done 5 Seasons ago and has worked very well.
I used a polyurethane caulk on the threshold.

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ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 04:21 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
2010 22' Sport
Carver , Massachusetts
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 35
Since my door is currently removed, here is a picture of the type of door I've got from Colonial's website.

The bigger gaps aren't at the door, but actually between the two pieces of the wall surround. The only door issue with sealing is related to my clumsiness, I keep stepping on the bottom channel.

The polyurethane caulk sounds like the right material reading a bit up on it. I'll have to see what I can find for local supplies.


etobolski is offline   Reply With Quote

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