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Old 10-05-2006, 09:45 PM   #15
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Well I will tell you Sugarfoot that that aqua magic surely wasn't going to be
in any plan of mine ,I did contemplate an original airstream toilet ,then came to my senses and got the sealand unit .On a personal level ,just seems right
to have a new commode in place .

Scott
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarfoot
...... Think there's a mound of discarded plastic RV toilets somewhere with a sanitation worker looking up from the bottom scratching his chin in wonder?
Actually, they often appear on ebay as "original, desirable, collectable..." go figure! There was nothing desirable about the 2 yellowed, scratched, vaguely unclean, PLASTIC Thetfords we pulled out of our Argosys.... trust me on this one - they were flimsy and really grotty! There aren't enough paper "fanny gaskets" or bottles of merlot on the planet to make them look "desirable"
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:35 PM   #17
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Janet ,you are soooo right on there.

Scott
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:36 PM   #18
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I second that!
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:05 AM   #19
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Thetford C**p Basket

For the life of me, I don't know why Airstream keeps installing those absolutely horrible toilets in their products.

I recently pulled out the Bravura in my 2001 AS. The thing never worked well, the butterfly valve never closed easily and it made noise when in use. When used in the middle of the night, guests and neighbors were awakened. When I took it out, pieces fell out of it. I was going to try to sell it on Ebay, now, to the dump with it.

I installed an off white Sealand Traveler. What great throne. Quiet and easy to use.

It's kind of strange praising a toilet on the internet. But c**p is just c**p.

Mark
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:42 AM   #20
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Before and after

In follow-up, with the mounting kit the Sealand went in without a hitch. It's steady, no wobble, feels just like home. The flimsy plastic seat that came with it was replaced by a real seat. Finally, with the low profile we don't need a step-ladder to use the toilet.
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Old 11-05-2006, 07:58 PM   #21
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That looks a million times better and more appropriate for these vintage trailers .Id also mention sugarfoot that if you polyurethane the wooden slat
in the shower pan ,the wood will stay as new longer .I like that idea .We have the different bath layout as you know so I don't have the pan .

Scott
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Old 11-05-2006, 09:09 PM   #22
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Thanks Scott, that's a great idea! I'll pick up some polyurethane this week. The wood slat mat is an item called "Shower Deck" from Camping World. It gives my mother an extra 1" boost so she has an easier time of it. At about 4'10" even the Lo Profile is a bit much for her. And the deck doubles for use in a campground shower if we ever needed it.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:15 PM   #23
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IMO, the water base urathane is the one to use. Seals great with a nice finish, easy clean-up.
Dave
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:45 PM   #24
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Exclamation

I installing a Sealand unit my question is do I use a wax ring like I would in the house or I see this rubber ring.

What the best way to seal the toilet to the floor fitting?
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Old 12-26-2006, 03:54 PM   #25
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China toilets.

China toilets love to come loose from the floor, since they are considerably heavier than plastic toilets. Rear bath or center bath makes no difference.

Add to that lack of proper running gear balance and "no" shock absorbers, will clearly show separation at a early stage of travel.

No amount of any kind of gasket, will stop it from leaking, in very short order.

Andy
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:15 PM   #26
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According to my user manual, apply a 1/4" thick by 3/4" wide bead of glazing compound around the circumference of the floor flange if it is being installed in a wet bath or shower stall. That is how mine was installed. Other than that, there should be a bowl seal included with the toilet. If not, check the link in post #10 of this thread for additional parts and such. Don't do the wax ring thing.

As for leaks, I haven't had any yet, but I've only traveled around 500 miles. I'm sure Andy is right, it makes sense with weight differences and imbalance. However, I'm willing to take that risk for the luxury of having "the real thing". Good luck, Bob. I know you're busting your hump right now to get ready for the Can Opener.
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Add to that lack of proper running gear balance and "no" shock absorbers, will clearly show separation at a early stage of travel.

No amount of any kind of gasket, will stop it from leaking, in very short order.

Andy
Andy my running gear is perfectly balanced and I have new shocks why would you assume otherwise, now the question is how is it mounted in your 40 years of AS's can you help?
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarfoot
According to my user manual, apply a 1/4" thick by 3/4" wide bead of glazing compound around the circumference of the floor flange if it is being installed in a wet bath or shower stall. That is how mine was installed. Other than that, there should be a bowl seal included with the toilet. If not, check the link in post #10 of this thread for additional parts and such. Don't do the wax ring thing.

As for leaks, I haven't had any yet, but I've only traveled around 500 miles. I'm sure Andy is right, it makes sense with weight differences and imbalance. However, I'm willing to take that risk for the luxury of having "the real thing". Good luck, Bob. I know you're busting your hump right now to get ready for the Can Opener.
Thanks, yes tomorrow I'm doing the whole PEX thing and installing this toilet. I see a rubber gasket about 3/4" thick and 1" wide all round is that sound like the seal?

So you suggest a glazing compound......not sure what you mean there?
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